[dave]

went up to curbar last night and spied what i think is a Sean Myles 7c arete problem left of Maupassant. Its looks brilliant, has nayone here tried/done it? Roll on winter!

The top of it can be seen behind the climber's feet in this photo here.

Amyone know of any secret problems/projects around curbar? bo.

[Bubba]

I know Mark has done it - he doesn't come on here much these days though due to dodgy web access at work - you could always drop him a mail for beta....

[dave]

nice. can't belive i only notice a problem like that in the middle of summer. anyone know if its actually 7c or what, i think i remember reading that somewhere, dunno if its true.

Was expecting someone like the Maniac In Black johnnyB to have iced it or at least have the 9-11 on it.

[Bubba]

I heard 7b+, but don't quote me on it.....

[Adam Lincoln]

went up to curbar last night and spied what i think is a Sean Myles 7c arete problem left of Maupassant. Its looks brilliant, has nayone here tried/done it? Roll on winter!

The top of it can be seen behind the climber's feet in this photo here.

Amyone know of any secret problems/projects around curbar? bo.

Didnt know it was a specfific boulder problem. Thought it was a direct on Moonshine...
I tried it once, but its desperate and very barn doorey! Have to get you feet up really high and also you use some poor poor hold on face to keep you in balance.

[fatboySlimfast]

Tried it last winter briefly on a bitterly cold day last feb, felt hard and painful, the pebbles really bite. Excellent moves (those that i managed to do!)

[Johnny Brown]

I've certainly messed around on it in the past tho' at 7c I can't be sure I got up it. I seem to remember trying it with the Tetler when he was warming up for the solo of knockin'- nuff respect!

Secret projects? Like I'd tell you punks!

[Bubba]

Didn't Ben Tetler give up climbing?

[dave]

Just check in that OTE peak graded list and its down as 7b+, i think i just got confused thinking it was 7c.

[simon cox]

Anyone done this problem recently, any hints? tips?

Cheers,

[old cheese]

JB did this yesterday, i had a few goes and it feels quite hard, you dont need to use the peddles on the left at all but some sneaky heal (right) action helps you to get a left foot on the higher smear and a controlled pop to the top (looked like that anyway). top pinch can be taken wide getting your thum on a pebble. if i knew it was 7c i would have tried harder

[Johnny Brown]

7b, as it says in the guide. Seems fair.

[blockhead]

Old Cheese wrote:

you dont need to use the peddles on the left at all

I know youvve only just passed your driving test but surely someone must have mentioned that the peedle on the left is best used when attempting to change gear. Tsk, the standard of driving instruction isnt what it was...

The beta... gained from watching the same JB ascent is LF obvious diagonal smear, pull on, R heel round arete. Work hands up arete till RH goes very high onto wide pinch. Then do sneaky bit of heel faggotry - R heel onto small horizontal edge to get LF on obvious high smear then  cruise to break. Sounds easy... its not.

[blockhead]

Blockhead wrote:

the peedle on the left

Hmmm. If youre gonna be sarky its best to check your own spelling first. Twat.

[Ru]

Umm, pocket thing to start, rh arete, footy stuff, LH guppy arete, Rh above left, step up, big reach for something. Can't really remember. Ok when you do it right though.

[Johnny Brown]

Thems with a bit of balance can do without the pocket.
Alternate beta: pull on same left foot smear with right hand good bit, left hand underneath, left hand pebble, slap up arete with right to good bit, adjust pebble to undercut, right foot obvious arete smear and jump for break, hard to stick.

[RopeBoy]

Had a play on this t'other weekend and it as guide book says "strength not required", well I was the weakest of the team and I failed to get up it so clearly some strength is req'd! ;-)

Some interesting beta, cheers.

By the way, does it end at the first slopey break or the next proper big break cause that's starting to look a bit high for a boulder problem.

J

[Jim]

strength is defo required for the LH guppy and R heel pull in, where's this alt. beta come from?
These people that go on about balance and technique being required for certain probs, its partialy true but they're also fuckin strong and'all  eg.
"its all in the hips" but fail to mention there's also a deep lock required for the first move.
It makes me sick  (not like dense tho)

[Ru]

well obviously some strength is required, but not that much. It's all in the hips really.

[simon cox]

So where do you stop? at the slopey break or the next big juggy break?? I guess when completely wired you can link with Moonshine???

Cheers,

[RopeBoy]

strength is defo required for the LH guppy and R heel pull in, where's this alt. beta come from?
These people that go on about balance and technique being required for certain probs, its partialy true but they're also fuckin strong and'all  eg.
"its all in the hips" but fail to mention there's also a deep lock required for the first move.
It makes me sick  (not like dense tho)

lol, erm from Ru latest bouldering guide, "Hiya" (in a Mark and Lard style)

J  

[Johnny Brown]

Any of you dogs wanting to see a rabbit...



Should make the discussions above make sense to those not familiar. Crucial holds are a high wide pinch about a foot above Neil's left hand, just below the thin break, and the edge just up and right of his left foot.

Any mods fancy moving this to where it belongs in the beta forum? And before Cofe pipes up, I don't mean those of you with purple velour suits, lambrettas and target tatoos...

[Jim]

And this would be how NOT to do it:

[dave]

word, i had not really read this thread until today. had a go opn said arete today and was getting up to the high wide pinch fine with LH on pebble. whats all this guppy on the arete shit? you playaz must be trippin. anyroad, from there i was trying to get right foot out of the heelhook and pasted somewhere on the arete to lay one for the top - however couldn't pull hard enough on pebble to stop a banddoor when i brought right foot round the arete...and now i read this about right heel down onto that blind edge round the arete to bump up left foot - that kinda makes sense. deffo going back for another look when i don't have to rush off somewhere. feels like about 7b ballpark.

Yo and another thing , i recall hearing talk of another cop-out problems soemwhere next to walkt on by, over to the left. theres some brushed holds, then like a 6foot gap before the crimp rail where i couldn't see any more holds - anyone know where/what this problem is?># holler.

[Jim]

were not all as tall as you Dave!
right heel down on blind edge is defo the knowledge, then left foot throught onto good bit and then top, no barndoor.
unsure about thing left of walk on by. looks like a non starter as there is a big bit with nay grips on it

[Dolly]

Had a 'mare on this today. I can get into position but then if I lay one on with my right foot on the good hold although I can reach the break I just can't stick it cos I'm barndooring too much. Can't seem to move my right foot from a heel on to stand on the small sharp hold either heel or toe. Whenever I tried that my left foot just popped.
My right hand is on the wide pinch and left hand on the pebble.
 
Do I just need to pull harder or summat ?
Is there another way to move your right foot onto the small sharp foothold so you can get your left on the good hold ?

[nai]

Is there another way to move your right foot onto the small sharp foothold so you can get your left on the good hold ?

I had a similar 'mare this afternoon, couldn't get the heel to sit on the little edge at all.

There is a small sharp smeary thing right on the very edge of the arete, equidistant between the edge and the good bit you're aiming to get your left on, I had some success stepping up RF on this.  I'll persevere with it once my finger's regained sensation from holding the pebble.

[mark]

[Dolly]

OK that makes sense cheers
Whenever I tried that my left foot just popped - but you make it look piss.
Guess I just need to try again ....

[Scouse D]

Nice Mark, you climb that very well! springy like.

[cofe]

hans florine has nothing on those speed climbing skills. nada.

[Bonjoy]

Anyone know if this has been extended to the next break yet?

[north_country_boy]

Yeah, would be a great addition to Moonshine......keep on trucking....

[Big Jim]

Whenever I tried that my left foot just popped - but you make it look piss.

Try getting the left foot right at the top of the ramp - it's smaller, but a bit rougher too and lets you stand up quite straight without popping.

Good luck!