[Krank]

i ain't got a campus board anywhere near my house so the only time i get to campus is when i go to the wall. is it a good idea to campus and boulder in the same session?. if so, in what order and what is an average time for a good campusing session?.

[Somebody's Fool]

Are you the same guy with the bad fingers?

Might be an idea not to over do the training til your digits are sorted...

With regards campusing, I've no idea.  I'm terrible at it and rarely attempt to prove otherwise.

[Krank]

yeah i got bad fingers but they clear up in a week or 2 normally . i was just wanted to start making some kind of training plan as i wanna get as good as i can at bouldering and not just do it for a laugh. But no i wont be doing any crazy training til my hands are sorted just trying to get some info so i can get started when my fingers are sorted.

[The Sausage]

i'm with SF. about once a year i decide i need to campus my way to success. i usually get worse at it over a few sessions and get demoralised and give up. despite this, i'm actually planning to get back on the campus horse (as it were) in feb. does this indicate some sort of mental health problem?

[BenF]

does this indicate some sort of mental health problem?

Possibly just inherent optimism.  And I imagine it's shortly followed by pessimism if the usual cycle that you describe continues.

However, if you're climbing better each year, it could actually be that the campusing does indeed work.  So don't feel down about it, just accept that it's normal and get on with being demoralised by the whole thing.  Then be psyched about campusing again next year...  then be demoralised by the whole thing.  Then be psyched about campusing again the next year...  then be demoralised by the whole thing.  Then be psyched about campusing again the next year...  then be demoralised by the whole thing.  Then be psyched about campusing again the next year...  then bedemoralised by the whole thing.  Then be psyched about campusing again the next year...  then be...

[Paul B]

i ain't got a campus board anywhere near my house so the only time i get to campus is when i go to the wall. is it a good idea to campus and boulder in the same session?. if so, in what order and what is an average time for a good campusing session?.

Any chance of some b/g information here? It usefulness of campussing etc. really does depend on your ability/weaknesses.

i'm with SF. about once a year i decide i need to campus my way to success. i usually get worse at it over a few sessions and get demoralised and give up. despite this, i'm actually planning to get back on the campus horse (as it were) in feb. does this indicate some sort of mental health problem?

i'm suprised at this, maybe your just doing too much if you feel you get worse after a few sessions.

[Krank]

B/G info..been climbing about 6 months, i can normally climb about V5/V6, i don't feel my power is a problem in the rest of my body just my fingers and of course it could be because of technique that i cant climb harder but i try to work on that as much as possible, I try to find the best way to climb a problem using good moves rather than the first way that pops into my head (which is usually to just grab and pull). i find tech problems and power problems good but tend to fail when both are needed in the same problem

[Paul B]

If you don't feel that power is your problem then why are you even considering campussing? It seems far too early to me, especially if you are having finger troubles already. I would recommend you get a decent core level of strength and finger strength before setting away with any rigorous training methods such as campussing or deadhanging. Just try to climb as much as you can, especially outside then you won't end up with shoddy footwork but the ability to do 1-5-9. It isnt too hard to get strong, however its almost impossible to try to learn technique afterwards as you will always rely on your ability to muscle through moves. Hope this helps in some way or other.

[Krank]

yeah cheers thats helpfull. I will leave the strength for a while then and work on my footwork and technique. would love to be outside all the time but last Sun/Mon were the best days for ages but my fingers wouldn't let me out. got next week off work though and the good people at metcheck are forecasting a good week so fingers crossed i will be hitting the grit.