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One for the surfers (Read 719862 times)

ben

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#1150 Re: One for the surfers
July 11, 2010, 09:47:05 am
I hope you didn't just mention the L-word Idol!   :spank:

Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?

well exactly. It's in every surfing guide and well known by anyone that surfs regularly in the SW. It is ridiculously busy down here at the moment though, last week I counted 52 people in at Gwithian on an onshore 1-2ft day and I was the sole boulderer..

gme

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#1151 Re: One for the surfers
July 11, 2010, 11:23:46 am
Reply to Johnny Brown

It really is not petty egos, alot of these secret / little known spots work on a hand full of days a year, some of us organise and re organise our lives around these waves breaking, spend time learning when and how they work, tides, swell winds etc and so rightly get pissed off when Magic seaweed or other forums put up pics or details of these waves and when you do get there there are van loads of people already there.
A lot of the spots i surf cant take more than 6-8 people even if everyone is orderly so 2 vans of 4 turning up on top of the usual crowd reduces your wave count by 50-60% unless you start hassling, therfore making the session far less enjoyable than normal.

I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.

granticus

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#1152 Re: One for the surfers
July 11, 2010, 12:39:35 pm
Quote
how come you cant go in the water? is it close to the socket as well?
It's just the arch but quite a bad fracture.  Can't risk pushing it back in once the fracture is fixed, no plates no wires you see...

Quote
Last time i checked it was in the stormrider guide?
Don't think any locals had a say in this, imagine if it happened to your favourite 'secret' break, it was a secret once upon a time..

Quote
It is ridiculously busy down here at the moment though, last week I counted 52 people in at Gwithian
Lynmouth is getting ridiculous at times, particularly weekends and, as GME points out for his end of the country, there are far too many folk without the required skills, respect for locals or manners
turning up. 

C****n Bay,  S******s, C***s, R******* Bay, Sk*********e, S***h G***, B***k M*****s, H***** Reef..

Not swear words, fill the gaps, all 'secret' spots on the NE which are ALL in surf guides which I'm sure GME amongst others would appreciate people not naming.

On another tip, by all accounts Ireland is the place to surf, apparently you'll end up leaving the water with new friends rather than enemies over there.  Maybe we could all do with a little more of this attitude in our lives?

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#1153 Re: One for the surfers
July 11, 2010, 02:32:47 pm
Reply to Johnny Brown


I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.

You forgot to mention that in the process they use steel brushes to clean the holds and never clean their boots before trying the problem.

the other suitable comparison is you go to ravens tor after sceretly training your crack off for the last 18months dieting and all other anti social behaviour required to do Hubble. only to find some group of 5 blokes from Spain who all climb around 7a with their draws on the route all day on the best conditions for the year. and when you finally get a go on it at the end of the day, its covered in 1ft tick marks, and the holds are greasy as a chipper.

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#1154 Re: One for the surfers
July 11, 2010, 02:41:34 pm
granticus, theres a kneelo who surfs at MY LOCAL break, and he has had major facial surgery (as aresult of getting clobbered in the melon by a mal).
he wears a grilled gath helmut a good tony grieg impersonation. as stupid as it may look, atleast he gets to surf still.

maybe worth investigating, it will come in handy later on at places like Thruso East when its solid, indo, el quemao and chopes and probably lynmouth based on the crowds reported!!!


http://www.bossbi.com/boards/gath/gath.php

get well soon.

Falling Down

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#1155 Re: One for the surfers
July 11, 2010, 07:06:26 pm
JB - From page 32 on this thread....

OK let's try and put a few things to bed.

There is localism in surfing.  "You can't surf here, get the f*ck out of the water, go home". BAD, fact, period.  No one likes that stuff, there's no room for it in the sport or the culture.  We see very little of it in the UK thankfully and on the rare occaisions it does happen it's usually just ego stroking and can just be ignored.

Then there's fustration in the water or behaviour that's frowned upon that isn't as obvious.  This does need acknowledging and exploring a little because what sometimes gets interpreted as 'localism' is actually a genuine and legitimate reaction to an infraction of some of the unwritten and not-so-obvious rules of surfing.  As illustration....

Getting in the way - Paddling out to a peak and sitting on the inside in front of the take off or further down the line.  This happens to everyone of course but there are repeat offenders.

Pulling out of a takeoff on a wave that's well makeable - A relative beginner paddles for a wave who's got priority and just doesn't go, usually happens on slightly bigger days when commitment is needed.  If you are paddling, go for it and don't pull back as soon as it looks scary.

Paddling to the peak out of turn - Another common mistake, especially made by the newly competent surfer who's mastered the art of catching most waves and turning.  Catch a wave, ride it well, all flushed with excitement and paddle enthusiastically straight out to the peak for the next one. Whoops.  Should've have sat on the inside a while and let the others in the pack take their waves.  Climbers who have turned to surfing are notorious for this behaviour I think because of an ingrained tick mentality.  We climbers have a bad rep in North Wales because of this...

These are all the equivalent of not cleaning boots, big tick marks, trying stuff that's way too hard, top roping hard sport routes on a tight rope and saying 'I did all the moves on x', dabs, standing on the matts close to the wall, using feet on a campus board.  All the stuff we laugh about on here and sometimes turn away sn**gering about at the crag.  That we then read about on the web when 'punters' talk about their visit to Malham, The Tor or the Plantation and say 'there were some locals who weren't very friendly'.

I've just re-read some of what I wrote and I probably sound like a right twat but I've sat in the water in North Wales, Yorkshire, Scotland, Indo, Spain and the Canaries with climbers turned surfers who have managed to rub people up without realising - me included when I first started out. 

 :)


Johnny Brown

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#1156 Re: One for the surfers
July 11, 2010, 08:03:19 pm
Yeah, I appreciate all that, its stuff like this I don't get:

Quote
I liken it to spending your whole winter training and waiting for the right conditions to do a new problem which is as good as careless torque, that you have been quitely trying for years with a few friends before a uk B forum decided to run a thread on it, so that now every time you turn up to try it there are 50 other people doing the same and are not politely waiting for there go. See how you then feel about protectionism bullshit.

What nonsense. The rock belongs to everyone, I don't resent crags being busy - ever. If I want a quiet day out, I go somewhere that requires a bit of effort to get too. Or by arranging my life around my sport, I can enjoy mint conditions alone if I want to. That's what local knowledge means to me - not secrets. I'm not convinced surfing is so different.

ben

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#1157 Re: One for the surfers
July 11, 2010, 09:46:21 pm
That's what local knowledge means to me - not secrets. I'm not convinced surfing is so different.
exactly - if you're a local who has learnt the vagaries of a particular break, its banks, the tides, the rips, etc. then you'll be out there having a top session when magicseaweed gave it 1* and everyone else stayed at home. As with climbing, there are plenty of quiet spots if you're happy to walk 10-15mins from the car.

I do however agree with the point made above that people not respecting the unspoken rules can be interpreted as localism

Idol eyes

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#1158 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 01:21:07 pm
I am really fortunate to have been given the tour of spots around the SW and surf with "the local crew". Lynmouth has traffic, there was only four out, bang on the low... Overhead!!! The charts reflected the possibility... And the journey paid off, big time. The other breaks in the area toward Westward Ho were working... I went with PM... Respected big wave surfer and Devon local... He has tuned me to a few breaks that are "secret". Surfing in the UK is at boiling point with regards to traffic, and turning up to Wrestles with a ten foot tripple stringer, the vibe is on you... I am not intimidated by localism! I fucking killed that break... Fuck you lot... It's mine too!
Marocco had this problem... French guys telling Kamal to"fuck off", you can not surf here at Anchors... Kamal was born there... He thought it halarious. Again, we got stuck in and fucked them off!
I have been really lucky with some off the guys I have met... And lucky to have surfedamy breaks solo... Fuck Localism! Just rip!

gme

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#1159 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 01:25:44 pm
reply to Johnny Brown.

Its not nonsense at all.

I am not claiming  any rights to anything, rock or wave and have done exactly what you say you would do. ie walk further and seek out solitude somewhere else. I have done my research and walked the coast checking every little nook and cranny, paddling out on my own to spots i have never seen surfed not knowing if they have been surfed or are surfable.

The handfull of locals where i live are more than friendly, sharing our flasks and inviting people back to our houses for a brew on a freezing cold day in Feb.

The problem is not that some of these people then go back and tell one or two mates who come back with them next time. The problem is now that they go on the internet and tell a few thousand people so the next swell the line up now has 20 extra surfers. This does happen and happens all the time. Waves i have found and surfed on my own or with 2 or 3 mates for the last few years are now getting 15-20 people on them, all since photos appeared in magazines and on MSW. And these are the types of waves that have a take off area about 10 foot square so 10 is a lot of people. Iguess this number of people will seem like nothing compared with the masses of people in the water in devon and cornwall but to us its a crowd.

Before you know it suddenly the locals are a set of grumpy bastards who might not share there coffee with you. In a few years time this is now pissed off rather than grumpy etc etc.

The UK has some amazing waves but not very many so unlike with climbing the options of going to another wave of a similar quality are nil. The waves i surf are like stanage on a crisp Feb day and the options to go elsewhere as you suggest are like minus ten on a humid august one.

That's why we like to keep things secret.




gme

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#1160 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 01:26:57 pm
idol eyes



Please stay down south

Johnny Brown

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#1161 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 01:49:35 pm
gme, you aren't making a convincing argument at all, you just sound like a selfish dog in the manger. I earned my climbing knowledge the hard way too, but the youths coming through have the net. Its not going away, and I doubt surfing is going to get less popular. Snarling at people with the wrong accent doesn't strike me as a great way of dealing with it.

As a visiting surfer, how the fuck am I supposed to recognise a local anyway? Are they the miserable fuckers?

Idol eyes

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#1162 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 01:51:50 pm
Oh, I really like surfing brown shite too! Ok... I will do as you say! Pm me you number and address. Wanker!

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#1163 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 02:01:51 pm
JB, don't even listen to this... The East Coast has some great breaks, and some good surfers, it also has a trend of Localism. I resent this... As it is usually issued by prats who want to enhance their surfing with some ego... It's a self issued level of authority! It stinks! Surfing for me is about getting away from idiots...

gme

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#1164 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 03:16:13 pm
Fuck me, now i am getting acused of being a wanker and yet i have not once been involved in any localism, deliberatly dropped in, snaked or growled at anyone.

As i said in my post i, and the other local surfers, are a really friendly bunch as anyone who has been up here will testify to. What i was trying to say that i dont think localism issues are down to egos at all but can see how people get pissed off.

I was also trying to say that its the behavior of the people who visit some of the out of the way places that can make very friendly locals not so friendly so i can understand how things can get a bit heated when it gets very crowded.

sorry i ever spoke.

And as for you mr King, be careful who you call a wanker, i lived in sheff for 15 years, know eactly who you are as you know me, and also know a lot of your new bunch of friends in the SW

My retort was based on the fact that you seemed to suggest you would basically ignore any "locals" and paddle out on your oil tanker (sounds like you would get two good boards out of that blank)to take any waves you wanted. pretty much like most beaches in the SW

Cant ever remember anyone saying, leave only footprints, take nothing but pictures then post them all over magic seaweed.

Johnny Brown

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#1165 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 03:26:02 pm
Quote
I was also trying to say that its the behavior of the people who visit some of the out of the way places

To be fair, you didn't actually say that. You said that the presence of a crowd alone was enough to piss off locals, and that it was understandable. Its not. They are there for the same reason as you, but you resent them because you assume they found the break on the net, and not by hard work. That might be considered normal in surfing, but it doesn't make it right.

Idol eyes

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#1166 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 04:02:44 pm
I do not know who you are... And don't care. Never tell me where I can and can not go! I am not the sort of person who obeys the likes of you. 

Idol eyes

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#1167 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 04:07:52 pm
Oh... And longboards have been around alot longer than short boards.

gme

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#1168 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 04:27:01 pm
i fucking hate chat rooms.

JB i did say trying!!! to say.

Idol eyes- i have never asked anyone to obey me, told anyone where they could surf or not surf or would i do so.

I have never been or intend to be " a local" in the way you are thinking of locals. but your attitude must make you very welcome where ever you go so have fun.

And as an aside the donkey was used as a mode of transport before the car but you dont see many people using them anymore.


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#1169 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 05:02:42 pm
I have surfed in a few different countries. In Norway, the locals are trying to gather intrest in surfing the Stavanger region. In Mexico people are totally tranquillo about visitors, the Aussie, Yank attitude is totally localised. I can appreciate the principals of all these, but adopt none... I belive that we all have a right to experience the true natural wonders of the Ocean, Rock and Snow enviroment. For example, I no longer climb in the peak because of crowds and noise levels, this is my decision based upon the fact that I had it to myself and a few mates for years, and wanted to leave it as I found it! My problem... My solution! Surfings the same... There are genuine crowd problems at my home breaks, I enjoy the fact that the slightest change in swell/wind direction will bring a sleeping reef to light for an hour or two. The moaning about "local" breaks being infiltrated by visitors... Brings me to the fact that some one who surfs a break in south Devon for years and complains about being local... Will then bear the right to go on a round the world ticket... Ripping all the great breaks and ignoring locals rights to their own break... Tell me this does not happen!

Obi-Wan is lost...

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#1170 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 05:35:21 pm
and on another subject...cool 360 degree video of Teahupoo to play with...
http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink companysurfing.com/videos/immersive/

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#1171 Re: One for the surfers
July 12, 2010, 10:13:31 pm
Ps... Sorry! Really bad moon this morning... Didn't mean it! I ment to say simply... No body owns nature! And there are no ristrictions in these activities... Bustin down the door!

SA Chris

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#1172 Re: One for the surfers
July 13, 2010, 10:00:57 am
What a hoo ha about someone mentioning probaby the best know left hand point in the country on a climbing forum.

Localism sucks, but you can see where people are coming from with it. Luckily none of that up here, provided you don't want to try and surf Broch town beach on a good day, and your family haven't lived there for at least 3 generations :)

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#1173 Re: One for the surfers
July 13, 2010, 10:17:06 am
 :o  didn't mean to start a SW vs. NE war of words...  Just trying to highlight that there seems to be a marked difference in attitude and localism from one place to another, whilst having a whinge about that lurvely Exmoor left being crowded out. 

Watched Dog Town and the Z-Boys last night, now those boys took localism to a whole other level.  Chucking rocks, lumps of metal and glass at visiting surfers, dishing out beatings etc. etc.  Hate to see things reach this level but it appears some peeps in the UK think it's OK to damage vehicles, threaten and use violence to protect 'their' waves.

I know if anyone paddles out at the places I surf regularly that I will be friendly towards them.  I hope I would experience the same wherever I turn up and surf.  Certainly had a good experience in Lanza which has a reputation for shitty locals and I hope the same would be the case in the NE (although I fear it may not!).  But I guess if you create enough horror stories and generate an atmosphere of intollerance it keeps the crowds away which is what people want.  Personally, I reckon I'll be heading to Ireland in preference to the NE because of my perception of the scene up there.  I'd rather surf good waves with friendly people than good waves with an ugly vibe in the water.

SA Chris

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#1174 Re: One for the surfers
July 13, 2010, 10:33:33 am
Personally, I reckon I'll be heading to Ireland in preference to the NE because of my perception of the scene up there. 

Clearly their plan is working then! I would rather hit up the Hebs than Ireland.

 

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