[Idol eyes]

In search of Micheal Petersen!!!! Well worth the view!
Scored Llandegeth (Gower).... Really good!
Miki Dora... Totall Scammer... The people that I have met that know him admit,,, He was not even really that good a surfer, just one in a million character!
The above effort at character assassination reminded me of some of the stuff he did!!!

[SA Chris]

Is October the new September?? Might just be.

[Falling Down]

I've always had the best waves throughout the UK in October.

Grim news from Sumatra today.. the epicenter would be right near the Mentawis and we have friends in Padang from our trips out there 

[SA Chris]

September is usually good, but this one has been poor.

Heard from a friend that someone local here is over there too, not your mates from here FD?

[granticus]

Is October the new September?
Yeah it's been a pretty poor September and unfortunately it's not looking like it'll be a great winter season this year.  Despite all early season excitement about hurricane swells, forecasters are predicting a less active hurricane season this year which as we all know means that the weather systems that give us swell aren't gonna be as regular.  Suffice to say that we WILL (he said in hope) get some good surf it's just not gone be week after week of pumping swells.  Had a lovely but short lived swell in the SW last week shoulder high and clean for 2 days then gone...  Still lack of swell, warm water and warm weather is creating ideal DWS conditions.

[SA Chris]

Glad it's warm where you are, was baltic suiting up this morning, bitter NW wind blowing. Was OK when sun appeared, got a couple of good waves.

[Falling Down]

September is usually good, but this one has been poor.

Heard from a friend that someone local here is over there too, not your mates from here FD?

No not Paul and Sarah.. I was thinking of the crew, guides and their families who live in Padang and out on the islands.

[SA Chris]

Ah Ok, yes tragedy regardless. Saw Paul and Sarah this evening, actually had a great longboard session, with thruster fin setup on longboard. May not be traditional, but in small swell you can get a great glide on. Sadly dark before arms gave out.

[Idol eyes]

I NEED A FUCKIN WAVE!!!! (yesterday was ok!!!)

[SA Chris]

5 sessions in 4 days, head east!

[SA Chris]

And another one this morning, but I sucked as arms were in tatters.

Couple of pics from yesterday morning, not the best in the world, but probably the only ones I have of me surfing. Like the trawler in the background, gives a bit of context.





Not quite Indo boat trip with rock star, but pretty good for east coast.

[Johnny Brown]

Nice, looks chilly!

[SA Chris]

Cold westerly blowing, and 9 am. Got in at about 4 again, no hood needed.

[Obi-Wan is lost...]

Surfer wins big wave contest
Nice exit.

[Falling Down]

That was sooooo close to being really nasty.

[Falling Down]

Great pics Chris.. it's so hard to get photo's when surfing.

[SA Chris]

Yeah, have very few of me. Dave Smith did a great job seeing it was his first go at it, and light is always tricky on East Coast in the morning, esp. as they were mostly rights.

[Falling Down]

Bob Simmons taught Chouinard how to surf... cut down the first plank into a shortboard to get out of the pocket and 'make clean lines on the wave' which inspired Chouinard to ditch the peg hammer and start clean aiding in The Valley...

[Idol eyes]

Boom! managed to score N Cornwall... Scarborough... and Llangeneth all in the last four daze!!!!

[Aussiegav]

that dorian ride is sic.
fighting the foam ball of that size and forced to lay bac instead of the standard pig dog.  so much going on for him to deal with. much more than the typical tow in ride down a mountain with a few 'chop hops' laong the way.

technically, it is absolutley mindblowing, when you add that to the context of the wave, the live coral slab half a metre below.  one of the best waves i have ever seen ridden.

i saw Falling Down do this on a wave one day on the east coast, well the last 3 secs of the video..
always a good laugh when its one of your mates betting drilled...

[Falling Down]

technically, it is absolutley mindblowing, when you add that to the context of the wave, the live coral slab half a metre below.  one of the best waves i have ever seen ridden.

   it's mindblowing....

Thanks for the comparison to Dorian..  the difference was that he had finished riding an incredible wave and I just blew the takeoff on an average one.  Was that on that really nasty cold day at sheepbaah with Gav and Jerry a couple of years ago? When we went to Cayton later and had to scale the sea wall at Cayton to escape the tide... top day that was. I think there's a post about it earlier in the thread.

Just got a brand new Excel 5/4/3 hooded drylock for the winter waiting to pick it up from Abersoch when I get back from Kazakhstan.

[SA Chris]

i've got an O zip 5/4/3 that is soo warm. Wear it with one of the XCEL polypro hooded rashies in winter. Really toasty, but the zip gets stuck up a bit -have to ask passerby to lend a hand.

[Aussiegav]

i'm looking at buying a new pair of board shorts, just to stay cool in the water 

FD,
yes it was that day. i can also remember another one, but details are too vague. i think it was one one of the points where you have to contiully paddle up the point. you too some photos that day

have a safe trip.

[Idol eyes]

Gower again.... Great!

[SA Chris]

Llangenith? The mother of all paddle outs!