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One for the surfers (Read 715554 times)

granticus

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#375 Re: One for the surfers
April 25, 2008, 03:07:01 pm
Yeh! It's great to be be close to the surf..  10 minutes from my house to Croyde (the finest beach break in the UK?!). We can afford to be choosy about when to surf, I feel sorry for people that book a week off work, come down here and end up surfing slop because they've no other choice!  I work flexi too, so can work around tides etc..  also handy for climbing and day light hours in the winter!!

I do like going right and have been known to pull into the odd back hand barrel here and there...  particularly into the mystery right at Lynmouth when it's working it barrels splendidly... However, it's so much easier to generate speed on your forehand and you can see right down the line which makes lining up lip smackage and floaters so much easier.  Plus you don't have to muck about grabbing rails in a pigdog stance on powerful waves on your forehand!!!


SA Chris

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#376 Re: One for the surfers
April 25, 2008, 03:17:49 pm
10 minutes from my house to Croyde (the finest beach break in the UK?!)


You jest surely? Finest by what criteria? Consistency? Quality? Crowds?

Idol eyes

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#377 Re: One for the surfers
April 28, 2008, 05:10:20 pm
Fistral fired five foot flawless.

curly ben

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#378 Re: One for the surfers
April 28, 2008, 09:30:56 pm
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested

curly ben

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#379 Re: One for the surfers
April 28, 2008, 09:33:21 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.

Idol eyes

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#380 Re: One for the surfers
May 02, 2008, 06:17:27 pm
Err! Shark attack at Troncones!!! American on two week surfing vacation gets wacked on day two! killed, Tiger Shark!!!

Idol eyes

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#381 Re: One for the surfers
May 02, 2008, 06:32:20 pm
Correction, Two whites have been spotted! LA times are running a story!!!

Idol eyes

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#382 Re: One for the surfers
May 02, 2008, 06:33:49 pm
Underwater times.com for a picture of the 15" chomp out of the guys rt thigh (its gruesome)

SA Chris

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#383 Re: One for the surfers
May 05, 2008, 09:01:33 am
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested

Sounds good. Got Eddie would go,.... Captain Zero, or Magic Carpet if you want a swap.

Falling Down

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#384 Re: One for the surfers
May 05, 2008, 03:28:26 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.

Where are you going?

curly ben

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#385 Re: One for the surfers
May 05, 2008, 08:57:49 pm
anyone got any pearls of wisdom for my first Indo trip. Good hostels spots etc.

Where are you going?

Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.

curly ben

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#386 Re: One for the surfers
May 05, 2008, 09:05:20 pm
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51Z7OrdOYiL._SL500_AA240_.jpg

Anyone read it? Any good?

I picked it up the other day.. pretty good thus far... I can trade it with you when i have finished if your interested

Sounds good. Got Eddie would go,.... Captain Zero, or Magic Carpet if you want a swap.


Check Pm

Falling Down

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#387 Re: One for the surfers
May 06, 2008, 11:14:01 am
Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.

Nice to have such a flexible schedule!  Oldfella from off here is now in Oz but was planning a G-Land trip sometime this Summer so he might have some info on where to stay.  I've heard Nias and the Hikano's were quite damaged by the two Tsunami's and aren't what they used to be... maybe Laykey might be a better choice?  I'm off on a 2 week boat trip to the Banyaks and Simulue a week on Wednesday so have been watching the charts and weather forecast with interest.

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#388 Re: One for the surfers
May 07, 2008, 11:28:16 pm
Off to Bali first. Catch up with a friend... then gland? maybe Nias. very loose plans. very excited tho. Not been surfing for couple o months tho, been landlocked studying/working.

Nice to have such a flexible schedule!  Oldfella from off here is now in Oz but was planning a G-Land trip sometime this Summer so he might have some info on where to stay.  I've heard Nias and the Hikano's were quite damaged by the two Tsunami's and aren't what they used to be... maybe Laykey might be a better choice?  I'm off on a 2 week boat trip to the Banyaks and Simulue a week on Wednesday so have been watching the charts and weather forecast with interest.

aghh G land.. i can dream. I think i would have delusions of grandeur attempting to surf it when things are pumping! leaving on the 16th. I think i will hunker down around bali for a bit and get my paddling arms back first.. Im off on the 16th. Reckon there will be plenty of swell......but hopefully not too much?! hehe

SA Chris

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#389 Re: One for the surfers
May 08, 2008, 08:03:19 am
so when you leaving :)? I'm well jealous.

Looking into buying a longboard for practically flat N Sea summer months. Not sure wether to go for a custom board (probably Martin McQueen) or maybe get a cheapie Take Off, not decided.

Falling Down

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#390 Re: One for the surfers
May 08, 2008, 10:26:19 am
16th May? We're heading out on the 14th but we'll be a few hundred K's away in Northwest Sumatra on this boat http://www.banyakislands.com/ for a couple of weeks getting some uncrowded perfection.  If you were hoping for an easy start you might be in for a shock judging by Surflines forecast from this morning. :-)

Extended Forecast Outlook:Note: all dates and times are local Indonesian time. Surfline offers this forecast on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The South Indian Ocean is having another active fall season (only after a very strong summer storm track) and we are expecting the storm track to stay active. We had a small but fairly strong fetch in the SW Indian Ocean and this looks to send in some building head high plus SW groundswell for Thursday, the 8th, and then we will be expecting mostly chest to head high plus SW swell into Friday, May 9th. We had a solid storm system down under earlier in the week and we will see some building longer period SW groundswell for late Friday and this swell will peak into Saturday and stay strong into Sunday morning with head high plus to double overhead surf from the Mentawais to Bali and the premier SW facing reefs should see sets in the triple overhead range.

Further out, we will see a few more strong but smaller scale storm systems move through down under over the next several days and our next SW groundswell will build in on Monday for Java with more head high plus surf and getting stronger into the afternoon with sets running around the double overhead mark and this should stay strong into early Tuesday for Eastern Java/Bali. Another solid SW groundswell will most likely be in the water for Wednesday with some larger surf and then fading but still head high plus to overhead surf would settle in for Thursday, May 15th. The long range models are showing one more strong system down under and this would set up some more solid SW to SSW swell for around late Thursday/Friday, May 16th."



curly ben

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#391 Re: One for the surfers
May 08, 2008, 11:32:27 am
16th May? We're heading out on the 14th but we'll be a few hundred K's away in Northwest Sumatra on this boat http://www.banyakislands.com/ for a couple of weeks getting some uncrowded perfection.  If you were hoping for an easy start you might be in for a shock judging by Surflines forecast from this morning. :-)

Extended Forecast Outlook:Note: all dates and times are local Indonesian time. Surfline offers this forecast on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings.

The South Indian Ocean is having another active fall season (only after a very strong summer storm track) and we are expecting the storm track to stay active. We had a small but fairly strong fetch in the SW Indian Ocean and this looks to send in some building head high plus SW groundswell for Thursday, the 8th, and then we will be expecting mostly chest to head high plus SW swell into Friday, May 9th. We had a solid storm system down under earlier in the week and we will see some building longer period SW groundswell for late Friday and this swell will peak into Saturday and stay strong into Sunday morning with head high plus to double overhead surf from the Mentawais to Bali and the premier SW facing reefs should see sets in the triple overhead range.

Further out, we will see a few more strong but smaller scale storm systems move through down under over the next several days and our next SW groundswell will build in on Monday for Java with more head high plus surf and getting stronger into the afternoon with sets running around the double overhead mark and this should stay strong into early Tuesday for Eastern Java/Bali. Another solid SW groundswell will most likely be in the water for Wednesday with some larger surf and then fading but still head high plus to overhead surf would settle in for Thursday, May 15th. The long range models are showing one more strong system down under and this would set up some more solid SW to SSW swell for around late Thursday/Friday, May 16th."


Ha ha you have provoked me into more pool sessions in preparation for the madness of indo. That website is rather neat! looks a top outfit.

Falling Down

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#392 Re: One for the surfers
May 13, 2008, 06:20:57 pm
Live Billabong Pro from Chopes - streaming now on the Billabong Site.  The swell is small but it's still cool to watch live surfing from the other side of the world.

http://www.billabongpro.com/

Nibile

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#393 Re: One for the surfers
May 17, 2008, 10:01:12 pm
ahh, the joy of being in the water again after months.
today i made the big move to the sea, the van loaded with tons of furnitures, climbing stuff, clothes and obviously a red, fast, 9'2" long.
we got to the sea and was quite flat at the harbour, but i know my beaches and went straight to the rocky point. ta daa, 3 feet, clean, off shore.
it's been a very nice way to start my stay here!!!

SA Chris

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#394 Re: One for the surfers
May 19, 2008, 08:27:54 am
I think it can only be a positive sign that it was mean to be. Bon Chance.

Idol eyes

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#395 Re: One for the surfers
May 26, 2008, 10:45:37 am
2nd Fatal attack 10 miles north of Troncones, no attacks since 1976 on the whole pacific coast, then two in the space of a month.

Nibile

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#396 Re: One for the surfers
May 28, 2008, 08:10:49 am
absolutely clean this morning, sadly seen from the car on the way to work.
must check weather forecast more often.

SA Chris

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#397 Re: One for the surfers
May 28, 2008, 08:29:02 am
And get up earlier! Hoping for first dawnie of the year tomorrow. If wind drops enough.

granticus

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#398 Re: One for the surfers
May 28, 2008, 01:22:43 pm
It's that time of year again... The water's warming nicely and rubber is being shed..  No more hood, gloves or booties down this way now...  No more ice cream head and getting flushed is actually quite a pleasureable experience.  Would someone please switch on the waves  :furious: 

I find myself getting excited about the 10sec 4ft swell, with light offshores, that is arriving tommorow, low tide Croyde sunset session is on, if I crouch up really small I might just squeeze into a mini summer barrel. 

Summer, Can Beat: piddle waves, super extended flat spells, masses of straight liners repeatedly dropping-in left, right and centre, crappy drivers who can't reverse blocking the lanes, litter on the beaches, crowds, crowds and more crowds, sunburn, stressed out locals getting aggitated with everyone (sorry  :whistle:), ........

Thinking positive..

Summer, Can't beat: mellow waves, warm(ish) water, chatting and banter with mates 'out the back', trying to rip up 2 footers, chasing the peaks as the tide advances, being in the right spot, watching the sunset over the sea, familiar faces smiling coz their stoked, dawn patrols, surfing till it's too dark to see, those one or two 'special' surprise swells.   :)

Bring it on!

Idol eyes

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#399 Re: One for the surfers
May 29, 2008, 08:22:16 pm
like the one wacking Fistral now...

 

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