[Nibile]

  no booties!!!!!

[Johnny Brown]

I seem to remember he asked for some for xmas but got a scissor sisters cd instead.

[Idol eyes]

That soon became a coulorfull frisbee...

[SA Chris]

There's a fine reef break just south of Torness nuke station, waters always warm..

Similar to St Cyrus. Doesn't ,ean I'm going to surf there. Don't want to end up a Jaffa.

[Falling Down]

Looking good for Nth Wales tomorrow and Saturday - I'll be up from tomorrow morning through to Sat evening.  PM me if anyone is around...

B

[Falling Down]

It was really good last Friday/Sat... surfed a secret spot on the Nth Coast all to myself in between work phone calls and Blackberry action in the car.  Saturday morning dawned and Ceriad was looking heavy and we watched some boogers getting nailed so we stood around talking a good story but not getting in.  Checked a couple of secret spots but the swell wasn't getting in right... Ended up at The Corner on the dropping tide and it was perfect; just me, Dave (the RSPB warden) and a French dude in perfect 4-6ft Lefthanders..

I'm super psyched for surfing with a trip coming up so I might get up early tomorrow for another day in Wales.

[Idol eyes]

The Cribbar has been going well sources inform me, the swell rating must be big, out here its force 8 winds and almost pitching,.

[Nibile]

i just watched "riding giants", and the last greg noll interview brought a few tears to my eyes.
to see a man that big and tough almost cry in front of the camera is something that really touched me.
ahh, we romantic surfers...

[Idol eyes]

Its funny, I totally cry when i watch dog town and Z boys, the super 8 footage of Jay Adams straight lining that big hill crouched up, he is actually going to fast for the film and you get color trailbacks from the Californian light.... Celluloid acid man...

[Idol eyes]

I have also been reading "Eddie would go" the story of Eddie Akiau, this is truly the story of a great man, this has inspired me to become a better person out of the water as much as in. many tears were spent reading this.

[Nibile]

eddie would go is an amazing story and he must have been a grat man.
inspirational for sure.

[Idol eyes]

My next read is Nat is Nat and thats that!
story of Nat Young!

[Falling Down]

<Namedrop alert..>

Unfortunately, Jay Adams is a total c*ck in real life.. I've bumped into him in Santa Monica with my California pal and I was distinctly unimpressed.

Peggi Oki is not a bad climber - she can often be seen in Yosemite and Joshua Tree.  She also paints great pictures...

Also, I had the great fortune to skate with TA, Natas and Bill Danforth in the 80's when there was an Alva Skates tour in Manchester - we drank beer and skated the Medical School banks - how cool was that for a 17 year old FD.. I was starstruck.

[Falling Down]

Surfing books...

The best one IMHO by a long chalk is 'Caught Inside' by Dan Duane (an ex-Yosemite YOSAR and big-wall vet) about a year on the Northern California Coast - it's well worth seeking out and has a climbers perspective too.

"Nats that" is a great read but I reckon Rabbits 'Bustin down the door' is better and has more surfing in it - Nat Young was on the beach last time I was in Barbados but he had a really grumpy look about him so I didn't go and say hello.

An English guy called Andy Martin wrote a great book called 'Walking on Water' a number of years ago about his stay in Hawaii that's really interesting from an UK perspective - he's got a new book coming out on the rivalry between Kenny Bradshaw and Mark Foo that ought to be very good.

Finally, you can't go wrong with back issues of The Surfers Journal - the reader supported quarterly.  I have a full back catalogue that's an incredibly valuable historical resource.

Nibs re: Riding Giants - By a strange coincidence, one of my old housemates (who Andy Popp used to teach) went out with (i.e. shagged for a summer) Alex Cooke; the guy who surfed the biggest wave out of the helicopter before the whole tow-in thing started - he has a small feature in Riding Giants...

[Falling Down]

Just curious, have either of you seen Litmus and Glass Love? Andrew Kidmans films... If not, you should as they are both right up your street...

[Nibile]

i love litmus.
i got it as a gift for my "the surfers path" subscription.
the derek hynd footage is amazing, pure poetry.
big big ups.

[Idol eyes]

Alright, you got your hook ups down!
Think Peggi Oki used to hang out at Star Ave, in J tree when i was there, my girlfriend knew her quite well and she would of definitly of known Tucker Tech and Todd Gordon.
Will not be seeing you in Barbados, looks like Russells wedding will not be forgotten, kind of thankfull we did not go, Its been total chaos there for the last 6 weeks and i do not like going to paradise and gettin fucked up, which if you are living in the gun club, you would have for breakfast every morning! hope you have a good one.
Thanks for the reads, going away for a while and have allready orderd caught inside...
was reading about rabbits epic during his visit to Hawaii, Heavy.
Keep tuned, wanting to visit Ireland over the summer, will try and coincide.
Hey Nibbles, seen some footage of Sardinian Surf, is that where you live? have climbed there but was unaweres of the Liquid potential.

[Nibile]

hey idol,
unfortunately, surf wise, i dont live in sardinia, but go there almost every year for some surf.
many places are overcrowded and generally not worth cos of really bad vibes around, but at least as much places (if not more) are still available for nice sessions!!!
also, sport climbing is world class.
if youre about to ask why i dont move there, the answer is the lack of bouldering. they say...

[Idol eyes]

Capo Testa is really good, other places such as Orani and the central region are alright, but routes in the Supramonte is the fucking shit... Punta Giraldilli is my favorite crag, trying to tie up possibility of going after Sri Lanka, done Wolfgang Gulich, 7A 400mts, this trip want to do Angelo Blu, and Mediteranio. where do you live.

[Nibile]

come down for a session.
september is perfect, any NW swell that comes in from the south of france. the more onshore the better here.
ahh i cant wait.

theres one spot where the sea has carved a natural arch in the rock. the swell comes in, almost fill the arch (8-9 meters high) and you are there for the takeoff. as the wave exit the arch, founds deep water and gets down to 2 meters, and spits you out. you surf and find yourself again in cal deep water in the inside of the small gulf, ready for the next ride. adrenaline.

[Nibile]

ahhh today was GOOD.
you never know until you go.

waited in the water for half an hour with few waves, but the wind had already dropped and when the sets came in i was super trimmed. one of the smoothest sessions ive ever had, really in tune. im happy!

[Falling Down]

Sounds great Nibs.. patience with surfing will often yield great rewards.

I'm off to Barbados for 13 days tomorrow.. plenty of trade swell forecast with a southerly and northerly pulse for mid and the back end of the week.  Packed a couple of boards up yesterday.. the 6'3 Quad/Fish for fun and speed and the 6'10 Widowmaker  2+1 for the heavy waves.  No suit, just boardies and sun screen... Can't wait to sip that first cold Banks under a palm tree after a few waves at Soup Bowls on Monday evening.. 

[Nibile]

hey have a good holiday!!!
today was super good also: its fucking full spring time down here. more like may. warmest winter ever.
lines and lines coming in, the whole day in the sun. my face is burning, my feet are cut and full of urchin needles, but its been a great day.
there were also FOUR girls in the water.

[underground]

Can't wait to sip that first cold Banks under a palm tree after a few waves at Soup Bowls on Monday evening.. 

Nice! I linke Banks's bitter too, didn't know you could get a pint in Barbados mind... every cloud has a silver lining eh FD?

[Idol eyes]

Yeah baby, Sri Lanka is pumping too, no more wetsuits.... just sun burn.