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One for the surfers (Read 721929 times)

SA Chris

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#3150 Re: One for the surfers
May 20, 2021, 10:16:14 pm
I know that towards the end of a session my pop-up is a sloppy mess, and  probably should have got out half an hour earlier.

SA Chris

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#3152 Re: One for the surfers
June 24, 2021, 09:33:31 am
https://beachgrit.com/2021/06/surf-ranch-pro-day-two-analysis-like-a-dog-coming-back-to-lick-its-own-vomit-the-mess-of-the-surf-ranch-has-an-irresistibly-vile-attraction-to-me/

Anyone watched any of the surf ranch comps? Anyone else find it pretty mundane?

Only clips on Insta.

They’re nice to watch, as short bursts of clean wave surfing.
I suppose it’s a fair bit harder to switch it up, compared to indoor climbing and route setting. But I should imagine the potential for pool bottom topography to be programmable and almost instantly altered, is there (something as simple as pumping water into bags anchored on the pool floor, etc), so probably “indoor” surfing comps will evolve.

SA Chris

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BrutusTheBear

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#3154 Re: One for the surfers
June 24, 2021, 10:20:58 am
So... so dull! I couldn't maintain interest in it.  In comparison to events at Fiji, Pipe, Teahupoo etc... once the novelty has worn off (this happens quickly) the Ranch is nowhere near as engaging. Nature provides a much more interesting experience (you have to wait for conditions but it's still preferable).

OMM there are wave pools where the wave can be tweaked. I believe they can control the release rate of water, (hydraulic system rather than the mechanical system used by the ranch).   Check this out,  potentially more interesting than the Slater pool.

SA Chris

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#3155 Re: One for the surfers
June 24, 2021, 03:17:44 pm
that blair guy can punt out crazy airs from nothing!

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#3156 Re: One for the surfers
March 16, 2022, 11:07:59 am

James Malloch

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#3157 Re: One for the surfers
August 23, 2022, 10:42:58 am
To all those surfing…

If I had a lesson whilst in Cornwall, are you likely to get much done in 90 mins? It’s something I’ve always wanted to try.

Don’t want to get into it properly but if, by the end of 90 mins, you might be able to actually do some tiny waves I might try to organise it.

As you are athletic (a good climber) I think you could expect to be standing up on whitewater (waves that have already broken) within an hour if you're on a big foam board.

For your first time i think you'd actually be better off without a lesson so that you have more time to figure it out and practice. Just watch a few youtube lessons beforehand and practice popping up on the floor. A lesson would probably be more useful when you want to progress to unbroken waves.

Treat it like projecting and be perceptive to what's happening. Nose dives while paddling in? Position yourself further back on the board. Etc.

[quotes author=SA Chris link=topic=32068.msg664877#msg664877 date=1661242504]
This ^ choose a relatively safe beginner's beach where you won't get into too much trouble (preferably lifeguarded) and give it a go the first few times. Plenty pushups / pop-up practice before and a bit of swimming beforehand would help. First time I rented a foamie I was up and standing after a few tries, but I had been bodyboarding for a long time beforehand, so able to read water and select waves reasonably well.

This should probably be in the "one for the surfers thread".
[/quote]

Thanks for the tips! I did wonder about just having a go so maybe that’s the better option. Also cheaper and probably have a longer session and be able to take rests.

We will be down in SW Cornwall. Definitely going to Sennen one day which seems to have hire places.

Any suitable beaches around that area?

Duncan Disorderly

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#3158 Re: One for the surfers
August 23, 2022, 12:26:51 pm
Thanks for the tips! I did wonder about just having a go so maybe that’s the better option. Also cheaper and probably have a longer session and be able to take rests.

We will be down in SW Cornwall. Definitely going to Sennen one day which seems to have hire places.

Any suitable beaches around that area?

Was at Sennen the other week and while it's pretty busy it might suit you just right, lifeguards and plenty of others just finding their feet... Gwynver is just over the way and quieter but also has lifeguards, definitely a more relaxed vibe tho...

The MSW app has great info on spots, conditions and tides so is well worth downloading...

SA Chris

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#3159 Re: One for the surfers
August 23, 2022, 12:52:39 pm
Most large west facing beaches will have guards and hire, just choose the one closest to where you are staying, except Newquay which is generally hoaching. This time of year finding a place to park (especially one that won't cost a fortune) and sometimes a hire place that still has boards available is the main challenge in the SW.   

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#3160 Re: One for the surfers
August 23, 2022, 04:31:28 pm
...Don’t want to get into it properly but...

Go for it, but be prepared to get hooked! If you end up coming back for more after a taster session then I think you could teach yourself quite easily given the type of analytical skills you will have developed through climbing. I would recommend not focussing too much on trying to stand on the board and instead follow this approach:



SA Chris

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#3161 Re: One for the surfers
August 23, 2022, 05:02:35 pm
Thanks, I was trying to remember the name of the videos. These are some of the better ones. Independentsurfer on IG is also quite good if you only have a ten second concentration span.

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#3162 Re: One for the surfers
August 31, 2022, 04:10:34 pm
Thanks for the tips/advice! I finally found a beach today which is dog friendly, had surf hire and was in the same area as us - Fistral Beach near Newquay.

The waves are pretty small (1-2ft) but there was enough to get stood up. Without any actual knowledge I think part of the reasons I didn’t stay up for long were:

-Waves were small so broke quickly and close to the shore. It means that the whitewater bit was often on very shallow water so the tail fins hit the ground.

- small waves meant that the energy dissipated quickly so not much chance to take you far.

- there wasn’t much pre-break wave which seemed surfable. So limited scope for standing up before they broke.

Anyway, plenty of excuses but it was great fun and I managed to get stood up quite a lot. Just didn’t then manage to travel very far.

I’d like to think with slightly bigger waves I could have more time between getting going and standing up to think about it and be a bit less rushed. Definitely keen to give it a go another time though!

SA Chris

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#3163 Re: One for the surfers
August 31, 2022, 05:07:01 pm
Well done, small mush is never easy, and no, you won't get long rides. Ideally you want them a bit bigger, but not so big you are struggling to get out back on the foamy yet.

A nice fast pop-up so you can control the board by moving backward or forwards can help though.

on IG follow chrishetem for some great tips too, especially longboarding

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#3164 Re: One for the surfers
August 31, 2022, 11:57:00 pm
Been out of the Shire (N. Devon) for the last few weeks but I have been keeping an eye on the surf, as you do. 

Quote
-Waves were small so broke quickly and close to the shore. It means that the whitewater bit was often on very shallow water so the tail fins hit the ground.

- small waves meant that the energy dissipated quickly so not much chance to take you far.

- there wasn’t much pre-break wave which seemed surfable. So limited scope for standing up before they broke.

Your assessment seems reasonable from what I could see in the forecasts/reports.  The Atlantic has been in the doldrums this summer, serving up weeks of flatness for the Grockels/Emmets to float about in.  In an ideal world the conditions you would want for perfect beginners surf would be a nice 1 to 2 ft groundswell (waves generated way out in the middle of the ocean that have travelled along way and have some power), with a period of 10 seconds or more, honed by a gentle breeze blowing offshore.  Sounds like you had 1ft of wind swell (locally generated waves with no power) combined with onshore wind aka 'mush'.  The surfing equivalent of 30C and full sun on a slopey grit test piece. 

If you have the means to hit the coast at shortish notice on a good forecast it's a good shout.  Magic Seaweed is great for forecasts.  It tends to be bigger way out west so if there is any swell going there'll be waves at Sennen that are larger towards Gwynver which is less sheltered than Sennen itself.  If it's out of control and massive down there it tends to be smaller further up the coast.  If your really getting into conditions consider that onshore wind can be offshore wind at a beach that faces a different direction.  Big swells can wrap around headlands and coastlines to produce smaller waves than the beaches directly facing the Atlantic...  Fingers are crossed for some decent swells this autumn.

SA Chris

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#3165 Re: One for the surfers
September 01, 2022, 07:32:35 am
You think the Atlantic has been in Doldrums, try the North Sea. Other commitments when there has been as much as a sniff have meant the closest I have surfed to home this year is Playas Americas.

Looks like it might change up this weekend. To big onshores...

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#3166 Re: One for the surfers
September 01, 2022, 08:28:02 am
Yep looks like there's finally a swell coming down here towards the end of this weekend.... combined with lots of unhelpful wind. Maybe the back end of it.

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#3167 Re: One for the surfers
September 01, 2022, 09:21:27 am
I'm up in Fraserburgh for the weekend next, hope it comes good, get back to the fantastic Philorth Beach

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#3168 Re: One for the surfers
September 01, 2022, 11:50:34 am
Fingers crossed for nice punter surf round Pembroke next week. Does look breeeezy though

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#3169 Re: One for the surfers
September 01, 2022, 11:56:00 am
you have some more sheltered choices at least, might be a bit of driving to find the right one though.

Duncan Disorderly

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#3170 Re: One for the surfers
September 01, 2022, 12:06:21 pm
Looks like Tuesday might be okay on the east coast??

Having watched a few vids recently it sounds like I should probably be spending more time in the white water anyways (my pop is shit - fine when stood up tho) so might just go be a punter in the wind and chop on the foamie even if it's shit...

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#3171 Re: One for the surfers
September 02, 2022, 08:07:14 am
Time in the water is better than no time in the water.

(my pop is shit - fine when stood up tho)

This is common. No reason you can't practice at home. Push ups help too, and core work.

Duncan Disorderly

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#3172 Re: One for the surfers
September 02, 2022, 10:54:33 am
Time in the water is better than no time in the water.

(my pop is shit - fine when stood up tho)

This is common. No reason you can't practice at home. Push ups help too, and core work.

Been doing this daily... Did mess up when I started trying this out of the water though as I saw a vid where they started with both feet already on the board, almost getting into a downward dog position before stepping forward... Only issue was that once in the water I realised that my 7'6" board doesn't allow me to do that... Now have a tecnique that works for the board I have that I can practice at home so just gotta keep at it! Great!

SA Chris

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#3173 Re: One for the surfers
September 02, 2022, 11:47:56 am
Good size board to progress on. I used my 7' 6" Minimal right up to overhead waves in outer Hebs. Sometimes regret selling it, great all rounder, hope the new owner still puts it to good use....

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#3174 Re: One for the surfers
September 03, 2022, 08:06:46 am
I would if there were any waves! Two weeks in North Wales and nothing rideable.

Tis a great board though, I've never felt the need for anything else.

 

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