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This Weekend - The whole country to choose from (Read 18249 times)

Doylo

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Everyone likes a nice topout but surely the climbing and the quality of the moves is more important?

unclesomebody

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Had a great day at crookrise. Took us ages (read 2 hours +) to find jason's roof because I had no idea of how long the crag was, and because I am an idiot. The search was worth it though, it's amazing. The whole thing was dry except the finishing jug, which was a real shame because it meant it wasn't possible to do it. However, does someone know if Jason's roof uses the left arete as well? There was chalk on 2 parts of it, of which I used 1. It is definitely one of the very best grit problems I've tried. It was heelhooks, toehooks, jugs, and some brute power. Most excellent. Reminded me of James' problem, River of Life, but Jason's is an easier version. So, can someone confirm whether Jason's roof is an eliminate or is the left arete also in?

Tomorrow... THE WORLD!

unclesomebody

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Sunday was spent at whitehouses. A small but well formed venue with possibly some of the greatest moves I've ever done. The moves coming across from rageh omar into fat punters roof are amazing. One toe hook, fully stretched, crossing over myself, followed by a big cut loose... can't believe I left the camera at home. I felt like Fred Rouhling or something. It was good. Probably won't go back, but enough for an afternoon of entertainment, plus a great view. Thanks for the recommendations.

SA Chris

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There used to be a video clip floating about of someone doing Jason's (on here possibly?)

unclesomebody

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Sorry, should have added. I've spoken to someone and my sequence was legit! I would have been very suprised to find out if it was an eliminate. Anyway, Just need the finishing jug to be dry and I'll be straight back over!

BenF

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Have you been out there in the dry in the last 6-7 weeks?!

Believe it or not, yes.  But admittedly not much.

Beggars can't be choosers at winter-time in this part of the world! Next time I forsee myself topping out will be on the grit or in the Spring. Do you top out at Pex?

 :lol: I think we need a fishing rod and reel symbol.
All the best stuff at Pex tops out, as far as I'm concerned anyway.  Actually I'm not that much of a twat to only want to top out on boulder problems (much as I love minging topouts), of course I enjoy those that don't top out, appreciating the move etc as Doylo said.  I love the Churnet and Pex (as you pointed out) for example. 


Edited for spelling.
« Last Edit: December 18, 2006, 09:57:41 am by BenF, Reason: Mis-typing »

squeek

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There used to be a video clip floating about of someone doing Jason's (on here possibly?)

It was on here and it was steve dunning that did it.  I don't think it's here anymore because the old videos got wiped.

Pantontino

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A bit late to enter the discussion, but...

Spoke to Caff in the pub last night, he reckons no one has bouldered in The Pass for about 6 weeks, so I wouldn't ruch down there tomorrow.

A slight exaggeration from Caff me thinks, he's just pissed off that the weather wasn't good enough for routes. I could have bouldered more in the Pass over the last few months, but I've been too busy on the Ormes. (I had a delightful sunny session at RAC just before Christmas, and I know people have been up at Sheep Pen, and over at the Caseg, and down at Talfarach, in fact all over the place). Anyway, what's with the bad mouthing of Pill Box Wall? There isn't a bad problem on the wall, and it's been in nick more than anywhere else of late. I'd even go so far as to say that Doylo's new highball line, Ain't no Party is one of the best of its grade (V7/7a+) in Wales. A completely stunning piece of climbing, plus, since boxing day it's got a bonus independant start.

Uncle, you tight cnut, it's only £18.95 for the NWB guide. C'mon, I need the money. How else am I going to put my kids through that posh finishing school in Switzerland?

Doylo

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I'd even go so far as to say that Doylo's new highball line, Ain't no Party is one of the best of its grade (V7/7a+) in Wales. A completely stunning piece of climbing, plus, since boxing day it's got a bonus independant start.

All we need now is for some mutant fucker to do the direct sit start, eh Panton! Makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

Monolith

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It's turning into gangland, what with all the Angel Bay, Cave of Justice & Pill Box Lovers vs. Haters!

Doylo

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What the haters don't realise is when there all wall bound or stuck inside some of us are out cranking on rock.

Pantontino

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Yer damn right Doylo. I drove through torrential rain from Llanberis (whilst others sloped off to the wall) to find dry rock on the Ormes again.

a dense loner

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What the haters don't realise is when there all wall bound or stuck inside some of us are out cranking on rock.

that is one of the best hypocritical comments i've read

Adam Lincoln

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I'd even go so far as to say that Doylo's new highball line, Ain't no Party is one of the best of its grade (V7/7a+) in Wales. A completely stunning piece of climbing, plus, since boxing day it's got a bonus independant start.

All we need now is for some mutant fucker to do the direct sit start, eh Panton! Makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

I thought for a minute you had gone back and done that line we were trying! It missed another beat when i read V7! I realised my mistake when it was only dubbed the best line in wales....

Monolith

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This line sounds intriguing, does it look at all feasible?

Doylo

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The line Adam refers to is AMAZING and is on the Lleyn, folk from this site have seen it. Dense i'm a rock lover these days, i've dumped the shackles of plastic and wood, i'm a changed man in fact.

Adam Lincoln

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This line sounds intriguing, does it look at all feasible?

Would be one of the best lines in Wales. Definately feasible!

a dense loner

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high praise indeed

hope you've not changed too much doylo? what with uncle gettin to the last move of probs outside n'all. plus i've not gone near rock for a month. it's gona be an interestin seven weeks, in more ways than one :dance1:

dobbin

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I hope you have all set aside enough money to pay for the catering pack of KY jelly you will need. How do you plan to get seven weeks of lube through customs?

Doylo

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Easy answer, we're not taking any. Watch out Dense, your arse is in peril.

 

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