[unclesomebody]

So, given I can go anywhere, what are the recommendations (please bare in mind the weather and the conditions)???  The best of the... well, everything really. Best problems in the range 7B-8A. Currently considering Yorkshire because there looks to be a lot of good stuff and I've only been there twice, the Lakes because it has the bowderstone, or North Wales because there is lots of good stuff I've never seen/tried.

Roll up, roll up, let's hear your recommendations then, please.

P.S. Doyle; don't you dare come on here and recommend anything on pill box, because it's S-H-I-T. 

[Paul B]

Head to the bowderstone..its got to suit you surely? If the weather is good slipstones is good, lots of problems etc but its grit so ...

[unclesomebody]

yeah. it may suit me, but i only want to go if it's definitely dry. Greg? Are you around for an update?

I quite fancy the grit. I actually enjoy climbing on it a lot. Infact, I dare say I think it's a great rock to climb on. Any other grit recommendations Paul? (not in the peak)

[BenF]

Head to North Wales because it dries real quick, particularly with a bit of breeze.  There's loads of crimpy stuff, plenty of slopers that will be mint now it's cooling off and there won't be many people around (unlike grit).

Warm up at Cromlech or RAC or Caseg Fraith (a bit boggy mind) then choose your lines from either the Pass or Ogwen (presuming that you have Panton's guide).  The Pass has a multitude of great problems, but if you don't know it well, go visit Wavelength, Barrel and the Meadow.  If in Ogwen, go and tick Clogwyn y Tawr or Sheep pen.

Or drive further and visit Porth Ysgo.

Don't waste dry winter weather on the Orme.  Get in the mountains.

[Bonjoy]

 I imagine after this week the Bstone will be very seaping.
 Likewise the choice of likely dry crags in Yorkshire will be minimal. Almscliff, Ilkley, Crookrise, Bridestones.
 The peak usually is a better bet after rain. Are you after a good circuit day out or one super classic objective??

[unclesomebody]

Thanks BenF. I haven't got Panton's guide, and I don't particularly want to pay £20 for a guidebook that is 50% redundant to me (another issue completely!).  Someone will have a copy though... Do you fancy recommending some problems? I want good things in good locations of a good grade. 

I tend to agree Bonjoy. I was thinking the lakes because it's a pretty nice setting to go climbing in. Yorkshire I don't know about, but if you say it's going to be wet then I trust you. I was thinking of crookrise or maybe going to up see Rhythm. Just fancy getting to a crag I've never been before. I'm not really looking for a circuit type of day, more or somewhere with a hard problem to try, a great view, and good conditions. (the world, plate, etc).

thanks.

[Bonjoy]

 I'm sure the Yorkshire boys will have a more definative answer on what will be dry. I suspect Flasby Fell might be dry (could be windy though). Jason's Roof at Crookrise looks amazing but that boulder is down near the trees so might be wet.
 It's a fair trek but Whitehouses would probably be a good choice http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/whitehouses.html , lots of quality hard steep stuff. Only one boulder really, but a good one and not far from Brimham if you get bored.
 Have you tried Lowrider (there's some footage on one of Huffy's recent videos)? That might fit your criteria and will defo be in good nick. Perhaps a stop off at Rivelin to try Master Kush on the way back.

[BenF]

Erm, I'll have a think about specific problems and hopefully post again later when I've finished getting very wet running up and down hills.  I'm certain that there are a few threads on here that list quality problems, although maybe not up to the hard grades that I'm sure you plan for.

Of the top of my head, these may give wholesome satisfaction....

The Pass:

King of Drunks left and right (RH is not v6, it's v8)
Jerry's Wall
Lizard King (v8-v10 variations)
Barrel Traverse v8+
Barrel Groove v8+
Barrel Traverse into Groove v11?
Lotus (and the straight through version)

Ogwen:

Beef Thief
The Punk
Anything at the Caseg boulder
Everything at the Pit

[unclesomebody]

Is every single thing at Whitehouses a traverse? Or are there more things in the YBG that are up problems?  Lowrider looks amazing but I'm not heading down to the peak this weekend. As for Master Kush, I'm too shit, and my lack of length only makes me look shitter. Perhaps next weekend in the peak for lowrider. I've wanted to have a go for ages actually.

So, wales or yorkshire. hmmm....

[Doylo]

Earl is the best crag in yorkshire (IMO) but it will probably be damp so your better off coming to Pil Box (36 links and independent problems, V5 - V14 why go anywhere else?) 

[BenF]

Earl is the best crag in yorkshire (IMO) but it will probably be damp

Fuckin' right on both points.  Possibly the best grit crag anywhere.

so your better off coming to Pil Box (36 links and independent problems, V5 - V14 why go anywhere else?) 

You are sick and twisted.  The best thing about Pill Box wall is that Pigeon's Cave is only five minutes away.  And that ain't the best venue either.

[Bonjoy]

Ditto regards Earl
Four out of the ten probs at Whitehouses are travs or up probs linked by travs. They climb well but are not striking lines.
 Like Paul said Slipstones is a good option. A long drive but very quick drying. If you fancy a really long drive Goldsbrough Car is very good

[Doylo]

You are sick and twisted.  The best thing about Pill Box wall is that Pigeon's Cave is only five minutes away.  And that ain't the best venue either.

Ben go there and try mr whippy, chocolate wall, whisky bitch, millenium drive, ain't no party like a pil box party and come back and tell me there shit. Call yourself a north wales fan, and you think angel bays good!

[BenF]

If it stays dry this weekend, Carrock Fell in the Lakes is worth a poke.  Lots of quality in the v6-v10 range.  

Lots of slipping around on wet boulders, bracken and deep hidden holes too.  It's probably your best chance of breaking an ankle or wrist this weekend I'd say.

[BenF]

Call yourself a north wales fan, and you think angel bays good!

Call yourself a climber and you're willing to drive to climb on Pillbox Wall? 

And do not get started on Angel Bay.  Before you know it, Dense will turn up and a fight may start.  Again.

[Doylo]

I give up, there's no helping some people. The fact that you recommended Beef Thief, Ben speaks voulmes on your view of quality bouldering.  Uncle if you come to wales we can go to porth ysgo on sunday.

[BenF]

I don't need to be helped!  But you got me, I was clutching at straws on the Beef Thief business, but it ain't as bad as any Pillbox shit.

Can't fault your Ysgo offer though.  Do it Uncle, it's brilliant there.  Scary and powerful, what a combination.  And it's invariably dry and sunny.

[Johnny Brown]

Spoke to Caff in the pub last night, he reckons no one has bouldered in The Pass for about 6 weeks, so I wouldn't ruch down there tomorrow.

Almscliff is a good bet for you Uncle, lots of power climbing for a grit crag, will be dry as long as its not raining.

[Doylo]

Spoke to Caff in the pub last night, he reckons no one has bouldered in The Pass for about 6 weeks, so I wouldn't ruch down there tomorrow.

Almscliff is a good bet for you Uncle, lots of power climbing for a grit crag, will be dry as long as its not raining.

Yeah the welsh mountains are screwed, even jerrys roof is soaking.  Uncles already ticked Almscliff.

[Johnny Brown]

Uncles already ticked Almscliff.

What, Demon wall roof?

[SA Chris]

There's a feeling I get when I look to the west and see clear skies. Been pretty dry here all day, I'm planning Clova tomorrow, lines crying out to be climbed. Bit of a hike for the majority on here though.

[unclesomebody]

So it looks like yorkshire on saturday, maybe porth ysgo on sunday. Maybe. Quite fancy a walk up to crookrise and maybe check out whitehouses. We'll see what the weather is like in the morning. So I'll see you if you're there... if not, I ticked the crag.

[Johnny Brown]

Porth Ysgo is a long, long way to go for a day. Even if the microclimate lives up to its reputation, you need to check tides and sea state too.

[BenF]

no one has bouldered in The Pass for about 6 weeks.

That's why it's been so quiet when I've been out there then. 

[BenF]

Pill Box is fucking good Ben, you just need to be able to pull on...

That's where I struggle!

That and the lack of topout.  I just can't ever really truly appreciate anywhere that involves dropping off from a jug rather than completing some kind of hideous, lichenous, sloping, palmdown topout.

[Doylo]

Everyone likes a nice topout but surely the climbing and the quality of the moves is more important?

[unclesomebody]

Had a great day at crookrise. Took us ages (read 2 hours +) to find jason's roof because I had no idea of how long the crag was, and because I am an idiot. The search was worth it though, it's amazing. The whole thing was dry except the finishing jug, which was a real shame because it meant it wasn't possible to do it. However, does someone know if Jason's roof uses the left arete as well? There was chalk on 2 parts of it, of which I used 1. It is definitely one of the very best grit problems I've tried. It was heelhooks, toehooks, jugs, and some brute power. Most excellent. Reminded me of James' problem, River of Life, but Jason's is an easier version. So, can someone confirm whether Jason's roof is an eliminate or is the left arete also in?

Tomorrow... THE WORLD!

[unclesomebody]

Sunday was spent at whitehouses. A small but well formed venue with possibly some of the greatest moves I've ever done. The moves coming across from rageh omar into fat punters roof are amazing. One toe hook, fully stretched, crossing over myself, followed by a big cut loose... can't believe I left the camera at home. I felt like Fred Rouhling or something. It was good. Probably won't go back, but enough for an afternoon of entertainment, plus a great view. Thanks for the recommendations.

[SA Chris]

There used to be a video clip floating about of someone doing Jason's (on here possibly?)

[unclesomebody]

Sorry, should have added. I've spoken to someone and my sequence was legit! I would have been very suprised to find out if it was an eliminate. Anyway, Just need the finishing jug to be dry and I'll be straight back over!

[BenF]

Have you been out there in the dry in the last 6-7 weeks?!

Believe it or not, yes.  But admittedly not much.

Beggars can't be choosers at winter-time in this part of the world! Next time I forsee myself topping out will be on the grit or in the Spring. Do you top out at Pex?

  I think we need a fishing rod and reel symbol.
All the best stuff at Pex tops out, as far as I'm concerned anyway.  Actually I'm not that much of a twat to only want to top out on boulder problems (much as I love minging topouts), of course I enjoy those that don't top out, appreciating the move etc as Doylo said.  I love the Churnet and Pex (as you pointed out) for example. 


Edited for spelling.

[squeek]

There used to be a video clip floating about of someone doing Jason's (on here possibly?)

It was on here and it was steve dunning that did it.  I don't think it's here anymore because the old videos got wiped.

[Pantontino]

A bit late to enter the discussion, but...

Spoke to Caff in the pub last night, he reckons no one has bouldered in The Pass for about 6 weeks, so I wouldn't ruch down there tomorrow.

A slight exaggeration from Caff me thinks, he's just pissed off that the weather wasn't good enough for routes. I could have bouldered more in the Pass over the last few months, but I've been too busy on the Ormes. (I had a delightful sunny session at RAC just before Christmas, and I know people have been up at Sheep Pen, and over at the Caseg, and down at Talfarach, in fact all over the place). Anyway, what's with the bad mouthing of Pill Box Wall? There isn't a bad problem on the wall, and it's been in nick more than anywhere else of late. I'd even go so far as to say that Doylo's new highball line, Ain't no Party is one of the best of its grade (V7/7a+) in Wales. A completely stunning piece of climbing, plus, since boxing day it's got a bonus independant start.

Uncle, you tight cnut, it's only £18.95 for the NWB guide. C'mon, I need the money. How else am I going to put my kids through that posh finishing school in Switzerland?

[Doylo]

I'd even go so far as to say that Doylo's new highball line, Ain't no Party is one of the best of its grade (V7/7a+) in Wales. A completely stunning piece of climbing, plus, since boxing day it's got a bonus independant start.

All we need now is for some mutant fucker to do the direct sit start, eh Panton! Makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

[Monolith]

It's turning into gangland, what with all the Angel Bay, Cave of Justice & Pill Box Lovers vs. Haters!

[Doylo]

What the haters don't realise is when there all wall bound or stuck inside some of us are out cranking on rock.

[Pantontino]

Yer damn right Doylo. I drove through torrential rain from Llanberis (whilst others sloped off to the wall) to find dry rock on the Ormes again.

[a dense loner]

What the haters don't realise is when there all wall bound or stuck inside some of us are out cranking on rock.

that is one of the best hypocritical comments i've read

[Adam Lincoln]

I'd even go so far as to say that Doylo's new highball line, Ain't no Party is one of the best of its grade (V7/7a+) in Wales. A completely stunning piece of climbing, plus, since boxing day it's got a bonus independant start.

All we need now is for some mutant fucker to do the direct sit start, eh Panton! Makes my mouth water just thinking about it.

I thought for a minute you had gone back and done that line we were trying! It missed another beat when i read V7! I realised my mistake when it was only dubbed the best line in wales....

[Monolith]

This line sounds intriguing, does it look at all feasible?

[Doylo]

The line Adam refers to is AMAZING and is on the Lleyn, folk from this site have seen it. Dense i'm a rock lover these days, i've dumped the shackles of plastic and wood, i'm a changed man in fact.

[Adam Lincoln]

This line sounds intriguing, does it look at all feasible?

Would be one of the best lines in Wales. Definately feasible!

[a dense loner]

high praise indeed

hope you've not changed too much doylo? what with uncle gettin to the last move of probs outside n'all. plus i've not gone near rock for a month. it's gona be an interestin seven weeks, in more ways than one

[dobbin]

I hope you have all set aside enough money to pay for the catering pack of KY jelly you will need. How do you plan to get seven weeks of lube through customs?

[Doylo]

Easy answer, we're not taking any. Watch out Dense, your arse is in peril.