[Idol eyes]

Just wondering what the first routes are from E1-E10.
E10- Equalibrium,
E9 - Indian Face,
E8 - Gaia?
E7 - E1- clue less

[r-man]

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=325

[Idol eyes]

Great, wondering about boulder problems now...

[andy popp]

Am pretty sure Doug beat Gaia, if only by a very short head (both early '86)

[r-man]

Great, wondering about boulder problems now...

Planetfear have compiled all sorts of lists, one of which is bouldering, though there are a few errors in the UK records -
http://www.planetfear.com/search_articles.asp?at_id=18

For a UK bouldering list (of non-eliminates) this thread rumbled on for ages...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3991.0.html

Though I think this is as far as we got:

V0 - The Crack pictured in the Yorkshire Grit Guide? - Simon's Seat - ? - 1895
V1 -
V2 - Spider Wall - Ilkley - ? - 1930's?
V3 - Crucifix Arete - Almscliff - Don Whillans - 1958
V3 - Wall of Horrors Direct Start - Almscliff - Joe Brown (onsight) - 1950s?
V3 - Janker's Groove Direct - Frogatt - Don Whillans - 1948?
V4 -
V5 - Syretts roof - Almscliff - John Syrett - early 1972
V6 - Tom's Original - Stoney Middleton - Tom Proctor ? - 1960s?
V6 - Barleymow - Almscliff - Tony Barley - 1966
V7 - Red Baron - Shipley Glen - Mike Hammil - 1976
V8 - Jerry's Arete - Bridestones - Jerry Peel - 1970s? (originally had better footholds)
V8 - Bald Pate Superdirect - Ilkley - Andy Brown - early 80s?
V9 - Cental Wall Direct - Dib Scar - Rob Gawthorpe - 1982
V10 - Haston Problem - The Breck - Stevie Haston - 1979
V11 - Superwoman - Crag X - ? - 1988?
V12 - Careless Torque - Stanage - Ron Fawcett - 1987
V13 - Isla de Enchanta - Trowbarrow - John Gaskins - 1999
V14 - Kaizen - Woodwell - John Gaskins - 2001
V15 - Walk Away ss - Fairysteps - John Gaskins - 2002

[unclesomebody]

Can someone clarfity whether Ron did actually do Careless Torque in the manner it's done today (ie. from the bottom right). I only ask because several well known climbers have told me that they have asked Ron directly, and he had told them that he started on the left, and after doing a move to the arete he then climbed it (ie. missing out the hard start). I have no idea about this but if someone could clarify that would be most excellent.

[Johnny Brown]

No, this is a rumour. He climbed in in the same style as all subsequent ascents.

[Paz]

It's not like starting on the left means mortals like us can then have a crack at the top section though is it, surely?   That'd be great. 

I thought it started on the left for ages until I saw the photos of Malc on it. 

[Stubbs]

If it's easier to start on the left how come that hasn't been done and claimed as a separate start? Or has it been done?

[Johnny Brown]

For the tall it is an easier way to pull on. To continue, though, you'd need to turn the arete and as afr as I know no one has managed this. Having said the normal start is easier for the tall as well.

[Paz]

I always thought climbing the arete on the left looked hard too, way back when I thought it went that way (would never have thought of starting on my arse in a shit filled bivvy hole).  Is climbing the arete on the left way beyond the immense abilities of today? - surely a worthy project for someone, could go ground up too.