[Buoux 8C]

Young Catalan bred star Edu Marin has made the second ascent of La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana-touted as the hardest sport route in the world.

Despite substantial efforts from Andrada, Yuji, Graham and Sharma- Edu shows who’s boss, making the much-wanted second ascent.

What an amazing effort.

Also of note (and a bit of blowing ones own trumpet) Edu is trying my route 'El Muerte 9a/9a+, see pic.



As is Graham who commented it is "hard as all hell". If Edu can repeat El Muerte, he must surely be classed as the worlds best all sport climber, in both power and endurance styles.  Go Edu, I knew you were something else.

[Buoux 8C]

can anyone help with the pic, from here;

http://www.desnivel.com/object.php?o=15298&p=share/zoom2.php&image_num=2&preview=0

[Buoux 8C]

Fuck me- he has repeated El muerte, sorry my Spanish is not to good. he confirmed 9A, and a hard one. Amazing.

That boy is about to dominate the climbing world (tongue in cheek).

[gr]

Bebelfish translation of the desnivel article:

30 of November, already are at night in Siurana. Beer in the camping, is called on to celebrate one of the waited for linkings more in the Peninsula, mainly after the siege that has undergone the Boulevard during the last days, in charge of the Hirayama, Sharma, Andrada... And also by Edu sure Marín that it obtained hours before, and of undertow, the first repetition of the route. So... second consecutive night of beer fermentation, and with reason.

What Edu, of borrachera...
We are taking a beer us...

Who were with you in the route, asegurándote?
Then it was assuring Gerard to me Rull, and also they were Carlos and David Brascò, and a Japanese friend of of Yuji... All crazy people have put themselves.

What has seemed you the route?
Buah! Incredible... I have taken the invested one quite stable, but when I have myself given account of which it had taken the bifinger key I have stayed as stuned. Everybody has suddenly begun to shout and I have already returned to react, leaving the nervous super bifinger... almost I fall. Soon I have pillado a small rest that there is to the right, before leaving to the meeting, was very cardiac, the mouth dries the heart "tucu-tucu-tucu"... and in the end I have thrown for, super above tense, tightening the double, and plated the meeting.

What has supposed for you to make a route so mythical, and that people of as much level, as Yuji or Chris, have been as much time trying...
For me it was a dream to make the Boulevard, and good, in the end it has arrived the day to fulfill it. It has been enough express, the truth, me did not wait for it, I have been surprised i myself; still I am not created really that it has chained it... very contented.

 

 
Edu Marín in Broadway, line that shares wall with the Boulevard, 9a+.
Photo: Israel Macià

What has been for most difficult you of the Boulevard, the key step?
To arrive to take inverted the comfortable one, and to be able to guess right better to the bifinger. But the passage of the bibedo where as much Ramon (Julian) to me fell to not cost me as much, only I have fallen or two once there. Also it knew that much psychological part made lack, because Dani (Andrada) fell after taking the bifinger and I understand it perfectly, puts the heart to one hundred. You know that already you practically have it chained, but still you have left some key sections average, and the head you can play bad a last one calmly.

The key is in which if you go with the right level to do it becomes very complicated, because it has very random movements, and also are important the conditions. If a little has a level superficially is more reasonable, because you arrive more at the cried out bifinger, less tense, you have more options to guess right to the bifinger. It is a very random movement, to send itself to a small hole...

This it chains demonstrates that the rock competition and the high difficulty are not contradictory?
I believe that it is another subject. The climber who dedicates itself to the competition must very just a short time to climb on rock, and just a short time that it has left, as in my case, he wants to dedicate it to rest, to be calm, to disconnect a little... the key is that you have left to neither forces nor time. There are many competitions, many training... but good, if you maintain the level to climb on rock, and affluent it beams, you can also chain pretty things...

How many you beat you have given him altogether?
Poquitos, eh? It thinks that I have married the route in a month of tests.

You have removed the route in a month!
Yes.

 

 
Edu in ,Until death propose of 8c+/9a of the Briton Rich Simpson in Siurana.
Photo: Israel Macià

And the previous night of borrachera with Yuji...
Yes, because one went away for Japan. I have risen with jaqueca, a little thus... chungo.

Many beer last night...
Beer and came...

And you normally do not drink...
Clear... but good. Soon I was for the very calm Pati, because it was not very well. I put in the Boulevard, and I did not saw myself very well, I rested one hour, I returned it to give... and I chained.

You remain more days in Siurana?
Yes, yes... if I finish arriving. I have left a month of vacations that wanted to dedicate to prove the Boulevard... the truth is that I finish arriving.

You came from vacations...
Yes, yes... because enough it was burned, because the year has been very hard. Many competitions, because it is the first year which I have made the circuit whole of Glass of the World, and also of Glass of Spain, and you finish very tired. It came to try the Boulevard, but also to pass it to me well, without no type of pressure, because pressure already I have had much east year with the competitions, and came to enjoy. Perhaps the key has been also a little

And with a month ahead, you have remained already without objective...
Or... but equal low to Chilam Balam, or I remain proving something this way. There are hard enough routes in Siurana...

 

[Buoux 8C]

Another cool Pic, Check out the tenagers arms!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



ps, can someone also help with this pic.

http://www.desnivel.com/deportes/escalada_en_roca/noticias/object.php?o=15299&p=share/zoom2.php&image_num=3&preview=0

[Adam Lincoln]

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

awesome

[r-man]

Accoring to 8a, he's just done another 9a as well -  Estado critico.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

I'm cheating here but here's a link to it translated.


http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.desnivel.com%2Fobject.php%3Fo%3D15298&langpair=es%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&prev=%2Flanguage_tools

very very poorly translated it appears. Sorry.

[Terrace Ghost]

f**king amazing

[moose]

fantastic stuff... now that's what I call a "winter ticklist".  Must be nice to have the quality of your own route bigged-up too.  I see on the climber pro-blogs that Dave Graham (and Dani Andrada) is up for la muerte too:

 "... I tried a route called A Muerte, which is hard as all hell, as well, and I always want to go give it another go, but somehow, we always wind up on La Rambla...".

And for those who want a bit more insight than babelfish can provide into the difficulties of La Rambla, here are Graham's own words on it (although he may be describing la muerte, it is not terribly clear):

"...This giant route starts with a horrendous, off-balance crack structure, and is know as the puta fissura. The route takes a left turn, and traversing out left in the fat part of the yellow wall leads to a straight up sequence with dynos on humid rails and then technical moves on pockets and edges. Traversing right through a huge blue overhang, the route busts into a headwall, with, oh yes, a very hard boulder.

There are two pockets and you rest. There is one long move to an edge, right hand, a huge lock off with a high foot into a structure of pockets with the left hand, where one can rest slightly, I repeat, slightly, then there is the real crux. Dani has fallen like 40 or 50 times up there. Chris maybe 5. Me never, because I don’t get there yet. Tomorrow.

Ok, focus ...

A long move to a slopey vertical edge for the right hand, then a change of feet, and then a viscous dropping-in move to an undercling.  That’s where everyone falls down. You can fall afterwards, too! From here there are too many methods to count, but it involves a pocket for the left hand, and an escape traverse to the right, all funky, then an exit. A crimpy one, but an exit, leading directly to the anchor; "The Happy Place"..."
 

[(woz)]

That is insane. Doing a 9a+ is impressive enough, but to do a 9a the next day after muchos 'beer fermentation' - wow

[Hendo]

Estado critico - was done in March this year according to 8a.nu

[(woz)]

06/12/01  Estado critico
06/11/30  L Rambla original

Just copied this from his scorecard

[dom]

wow, thats impressive.  Is La Rambla only the second confirmed (repeated) 9a+ after realization?  I think i read somewhere Bimbaluna has had a repeat but been downgraded to 9a?  I might be wrong here.

Especially impressive when you read dave grahams blog describing the route.

He's changed his ascent date of estado critico to 11/24 now.

[Hendo]

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=1073

[erm, sam]

never mine all that blah: Look at his right arm in the first pic. Fucking amazing. Muscle tendon and nothing else.

[Paul B]

Looks like sharma has done le Rambla now as well (UKC).

[SA Chris]

Am I getting confused? I thought La Rambla (Alex Hube's old route) was 8c+/9a and La Rambla Direct was 9a+ or something?

[dobbin]

I think Huber stopped in the middle of nowhere before the really hard bit, and the proper real line is la rambla (but I dont really know, thats just what someone said!)

[nash1]

Impressive of Sharma, he did it pretty quick it seems, and makes his DWS thing look pretty damn tricky, maybe the 9b guesses weren't far off. I am shocked that he burns Andrada and Graham on such a route, he is a monster...
Good week for news eh, Cypher, Ace, Voyager SS, A Muerte and 2x La Rambla...I even did a problem in Font!

[Somebody's Fool]

Good week for news eh, Cypher, Ace, Voyager SS, A Muerte and 2x La Rambla...I even did a problem in Font!

Not to mention Goose Cannon.

[Nibile]

according to an old desnivel hubers interview:

huber was trying la rambla, and never got to the chain, usually falling between the last bolt, that he clipped, and the belay. on one attempt, he broke e crucial hold in that last sequence, tried again but thought the last bit unclimbabale. so he stripped the original chain, lowered it to the last bolt, and got the route at 8c+.
years after andrada supposedly repeated the route, but came out that he had climbed a lower variation, at 8c. not much after he took the chain off again and put it back up where it originally was.

the rest is known.
as perhaps was what i wrote.

[Adam Lincoln]

Dave Graham has done A Muerte now. Not bad for someone who is still getting fit!