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Problem Left of the Ace? (Read 3686 times)

Daniel

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Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:14:26 pm
Hey

Was mooching around the plantation today, and Im sure Im not the only one thats ever wondered, but..

You know that crackline that starts near the ace and moves left and up... Has this ever been tried? Is it an ongoing project?

Cheers

D.

Johnny Brown

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#1 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:20:07 pm
Yes it's been tried, Idol Eyes has done the traverse section I think but the up bit at the end is rather futuristic.

fashionguru

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#2 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:28:08 pm
If your interested there is also the big dyno but think you would need lotssss of pads, spotters and huge bol****

Daniel

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#3 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:30:59 pm
Pray tell, just for curiosities sake, what is the big dyno?

Bonjoy

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#4 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:33:34 pm
The obvious jug/ledge to top left of Joker, i.e. the start of the aforementioned traverse

Dude

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#5 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:34:00 pm
 :wall:

Too much for your shoulders PB!!!

Rice Boy

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#6 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:44:45 pm
I saw someone shunting the line no less than twice over a year? Rathurr strange.

Johnny Brown

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#7 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:47:43 pm
Quote
The obvious jug/ledge to top left of Joker, i.e. the start of the aforementioned traverse

Think he means 'the END of the aforementioned traverse'. Unless he means a dyno from the start of the ace. Brain obviously addled by his geese

Stubbs

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#8 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:50:49 pm
For those (like me) who don't have the exact layout of this block ingrained into their soul


nash1

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#9 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 03:59:50 pm
Is that not yet done?? Bugger, I might book me ticket now and come and bag it, I think I will call i 'I am Ace' looks about a stiff 6b+ or summit.

Ok, seriously. Is it futuristic, looks feasible on the pic??

saltbeef

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#10 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 04:23:26 pm
those punters looking at afforementioned line, thats mr huffington and the fly in that picture. they aren't shit. they made it look sufficiently taxing.

dave

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#11 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 04:41:55 pm
i was at some crag or other (don't know which one, could have been indoor) once and some guy (don't know who)said that either he or a close aquaintance (not sure which) had tried the thing moving left from the ace, got to the "end" (not sure where this is) and blew it going for the top. Make of this what you will.

Teaboy

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#12 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 05:19:14 pm
Well I think that's cleared that one up. Next!

Daniel

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#13 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 12, 2006, 05:29:40 pm
I love these climbing urban (or should that be rural?) legends... Maybe they should qualify as a new thread?!?

Rice Boy

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#14 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 13, 2006, 12:02:02 pm
I once dreamt that I traversed the top of the whole block. I've never eaten cheese out of a tube since.

Sloper

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#15 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 13, 2006, 10:30:36 pm
Tried this a few times over the last 10+ years or so and the vertical section was beyond me.  The thing is it *looks* all there and doesn't look (in modern terms) that hard so why hasn't it been done.

Incidentally anyone else done the lines to the left and right of 'fear and loathing'?  Quality problems even if the landing is less than ideal.


Bonjoy

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#16 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 14, 2006, 08:40:08 am


Incidentally anyone else done the lines to the left and right of 'fear and loathing'?  Quality problems even if the landing is less than ideal.


How far left and right? Do you mean Brass Monkeys or something on the slabby side that F&L is on?

nik at work

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#17 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 14, 2006, 01:48:03 pm
Given slopers waistline and stature (or lack thereof) I doubt he means brass monkeys.

Idol eyes

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#18 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 14, 2006, 01:48:45 pm
Dubbed, The Bad Hand...
It will go...
Top Rope...

Sloper

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#19 Re: Problem Left of the Ace?
December 14, 2006, 07:14:01 pm
If brass hand is the hanging arete to the left of F&L then speccy anorexic chimp boy is correct, I'm referring to the left and right hand variant of F&L.  The left hand one goes out to the arete at about mid height the right one is pretty obvious.  Incdentally I've done a sitter to F&L which is quite 'odd'.

On a further note anyone know who brushed the fuck out of the groove on the back (crag side) of the boulder and whether this has had any attention?

 

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