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My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno (Read 175335 times)

GCW

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#50 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 08:04:19 am
Thanks HKS.  That's a nice looking move.  Holds appear about 2 inches further apart than you are tall........  Any clues?
I may not have found the longest dyno yet but I've got quite a few projects to do!!!
Thanks UKB posse

Will Hunt

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#51 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 08:43:54 am
Fatneck is right. Apprently the "7 foot dyno" at Pex is exactly tht making it a confirmed 213cm. Im pretty sure that only lanky owen has done it. got him a clip on Sky Sports Extreme channel or summat. The famous lanky poo.

AndiT

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#52 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 09:17:52 am
old video of the big dyno for you:

Bloody hell, I've not seen that in a while, I've got a few more grey hairs now but still the same vest! I'm 6'2" and it's an arm length too, Roaches dyno is atleast 7' and really similar but slightly shorter than Catharsis: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=55937. Hold to hold Maurice Gibb is shorter than the Roaches dyno so I think it can be counted out...


Matt

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#53 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 11:59:54 am
There is some really long dyno to the right of pebble wall at almscliff (not the PW variation that I'm on, but further right), can't remember exact details, but it's from the low chalked holds to the right of the crack to the top. I'm 183 and according to my ruler that must be ~210, but could be more if I could actually remember where it went.
www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=almscliff__pebble_wall_var&n=2

AndiT

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#54 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 12:06:11 pm
Yeah, I've done that one. It uses a hold on the inside of the crack. It's really big flight-wise, but not massive hold-to hold. Good though. Massive jug on top and potential for eliminates using different hand holds and footholds. Kind of a make-your-own dyno-to-suite type affair.

Dr T

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#55 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 12:51:07 pm
length on this one is huge if you go from hold to hold...
no hand holds though...
http://bleau.info/sabots/11399.html

GCW

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#56 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 01:02:53 pm
no hand holds though...

Looks like it might go from an undercut?  Does seem pretty big though.  Another 200+cm effort.  I'm not sure we can allow it as it can be done as per the video, which isn't that impressive.
We need more accurate data on these flights!!

r-man

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#57 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 01:58:50 pm
Possibly nothing that huge, but some great dyno shots in this thread:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,5602.0.html

nash1

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#58 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 04:23:49 pm
The Buckstone is 175cm from base of the chips to the lip of the top... if anyone is interested...
 :bounce:

GCW

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#59 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 06, 2006, 04:49:30 pm
The Buckstone is 175cm from base of the chips to the lip of the top... if anyone is interested...
 :bounce:
Thanks.  Did you measure it?  If so, well done for getting into the mood of this topic!!!
Funny how dynos we think are Big aren't as long as you may expect.   :-\

nash1

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#60 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 07, 2006, 08:33:55 am
I had (rather sadly) asked a mate to measure it a few years back so I could build it on a wall, the top jug is 30cm overhanging from the chips as well, I never had the heart to delete the file he sent with the diagram, and this thread made me go back and see!!
Nerdy fun indeed...

Monolith

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#61 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 07, 2006, 11:08:54 pm
Talking of problem emulation - has anyone read that excerpt in the Fontainebleau circuits book about the philosophy professor that painstakingly matched Fatman hold for hold, angle by angle?

BenF

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#62 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 08, 2006, 08:26:36 am
has anyone read that excerpt in the Fontainebleau circuits book about the philosophy professor that painstakingly matched Fatman hold for hold, angle by angle?

Yes.  I spend so much of my sad life reading guidebooks, I've usually read pretty much every word of every guide that I own.    Anway, that's not what you asked about. 

I can't remember (I didn't say that anything I read actually sinks in), does it say in the guide whether or not the guy managed to climb Fatman after his efforts?  Or was all that prior to him making the first ascent? 


a dense loner

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#63 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 08, 2006, 10:14:58 am
oh my god

nash1

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#64 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 12, 2006, 04:01:46 pm
So no one else has gone out with a tape measure then. Dissappointed, I must say... :thumbsdown:

GCW

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#65 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 14, 2006, 04:54:54 pm
Yeah, me too.  I thought there would be more sad obsessives on UKB.  Next time I'm at Trowbarrow I'll measure Gerg's and see if it's longer than Quent's........

GCW

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#66 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 17, 2006, 03:14:05 pm
Wet day so I've been to the Red Wall..... with a tape measure of course.  The results may surprise a few of you.  Greg, do 6 Foot Sicks and Greg's go from the jug or the Undercuts?  And what is in for feet?  Measurements below are from jugs, knock off 5cm for undercuts:

1.  Quent's Dyno 205cm  Stoney
2.  Greg’s Dyno  195cm  Trowbarow
3.  6 Foot Sicks  193cm  Trowbarrow
4.  Kirton Dyno  180cm  Stoney
5=  George's Wall Dyno  175cm  Stoney
5=  The Buckstone Dyno
7.  One Arm Bandit  170cm  Stoney
8.  Nexus Dyno  165cm  Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
9.  Young American  157cm  Stoney
10=.  Megatron  155cm Stoney
10=.  Unjust Dyno  155cm  Brownstones

These are the measured ones.  Big Dyno, Maurice Gibb etc mat be longer but not officially until they are measured.   ::)

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nash1

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#68 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 18, 2006, 06:25:51 am
Mr GCW... RESPECT! Good work lad, this is the sort of dedication which we wanna see! :great:
How hard is Quents graded again??

SA Chris

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#69 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 18, 2006, 07:46:17 am
oh my god

I second this emotion

I see your emotion and raise you this emoticon ::)

GCW

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#70 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 18, 2006, 08:09:32 am
oh my god

I second this emotion

I see your emotion and raise you this emoticon ::)

I see your emotion and emoticon and I raise you a better laid out table...... with grades!!!!!


1   205cm   Quent’s Dyno   7b   Stoney Middleton
2   195cm   Greg’s Dyno   7b   Trowbarrow
3   193cm   6 Foot Sicks   7c   Trowbarrow
4   180cm   Kirton Dyno   7a+   Stoney Middleton
5=   175cm   George’s Wall Dyno   7b+?   Stoney Middleton
5=   175cm   Buckstone Dyno   7b   ???
7   170cm   One Arm Bandit   7b   Stoney Middleton
8   165cm   Nexus Dyno   V4   Brownstones
9   157cm   Young American   7a+   Stoney Middleton
10=   155cm   Megatron                7b   Stoney Middleton
10=   155cm   Unjust Dyno   7c??   Brownstones
            



And an emoticon.   :o

Andy F

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#71 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 18, 2006, 08:24:13 am
Fatneck is right. Apprently the "7 foot dyno" at Pex is exactly tht making it a confirmed 213cm. Im pretty sure that only lanky owen has done it. got him a clip on Sky Sports Extreme channel or summat. The famous lanky poo.

As shown at the Kendal film fest a few year back, entitled 'Pex in the city'. Rather a pithy play on word I thought  ::)

GCW

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#72 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 18, 2006, 08:32:40 am
Measured and confirmed:
1   205cm   Quent’s Dyno   7b   Stoney Middleton
2   195cm   Greg’s Dyno   7b   Trowbarrow
3   193cm   6 Foot Sicks   7c   Trowbarrow
4   180cm   Kirton Dyno   7a+   Stoney Middleton
5=   175cm   George’s Wall Dyno   7b+?   Stoney Middleton
5=   175cm   Buckstone Dyno   7b   
7   170cm   One Arm Bandit   7b   Stoney Middleton
8   165cm   Nexus Dyno   V4   Brownstones
9   157cm   Young American   7a+   Stoney Middleton
10=   155cm   Megatron                7b   Stoney Middleton
10=   155cm   Unjust Dyno   7c??   Brownstones

Probably big too:
1.  7 Foot Dyno  213cm  Some hole out West  ;D
2.  Big Dyno  "over 200cm"  Roaches
3.  Maurice Gibb  Big  Gib Tor
etc

In reply to Andy F:  Get your tape measure out and check if it really is 7 feet-  this is a science thread.  I was disappointed by the lack of 2" on 6 foot sicks and suggest a re-name to "6 Foot Force" or something   :wall:

Greg C

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#73 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 18, 2006, 09:06:30 am
Wet day so I've been to the Red Wall..... with a tape measure of course.  The results may surprise a few of you.  Greg, do 6 Foot Sicks and Greg's go from the jug or the Undercuts?  And what is in for feet?  Measurements below are from jugs, knock off 5cm for undercuts:

1.  Quent's Dyno 205cm  Stoney
2.  Greg’s Dyno  195cm  Trowbarow
3.  6 Foot Sicks  193cm  Trowbarrow
4.  Kirton Dyno  180cm  Stoney
5=  George's Wall Dyno  175cm  Stoney
5=  The Buckstone Dyno
7.  One Arm Bandit  170cm  Stoney
8.  Nexus Dyno  165cm  Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
9.  Young American  157cm  Stoney
10=.  Megatron  155cm Stoney
10=.  Unjust Dyno  155cm  Brownstones

These are the measured ones.  Big Dyno, Maurice Gibb etc mat be longer but not officially until they are measured.   ::)

Greg's Dyno - Goes off the jugs and uses a dink for your RF and a shallow pocket for your LF.
6 Foot Sicks - This uses the undercuts and pretty much anything for your feet. It was also more a huge span (rather than a dyno) for first ascentionist, as he's got a fair wingspan.

GCW

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#74 Re: My Dyno's bigger than your Dyno
December 18, 2006, 09:19:11 am
Quote
Greg's Dyno - Goes off the jugs and uses a dink for your RF and a shallow pocket for your LF.
6 Foot Sicks - This uses the undercuts and pretty much anything for your feet. It was also more a huge span (rather than a dyno) for first ascentionist, as he's got a fair wingspan.

Ah, thanks Greg.  Is that left foot in pocket "28" on your latest topo?  I was going to have a go yesterday but it was soaking on that section.  Looks excellent.  Have to go back again.

3.  6 Foot Sicks  188cm  Trowbarrow  Should be "6 Foot Threes" now I suppose.

 

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