[GCW]

OK, I know distance isn't a guide to difficulty but what's the biggest dyno (measured from hand-hold to hand-hold) that we know of?  Went to a certain venue with a tape measure......
Dynos at Stoney:
1.  Quents 205cm
2.  Kirton Dyno  180cm
3.  George's Wall Dyno  175cm
4.  One Arm Bandit  170cm
5.  Young American  157cm
6.  Megatron  155cm

[(woz)]

That is brilliant - I thought I was obsessed with stoney. I'm surprised that one armed bandit is bigger than megatron turbo though.
You should get yourself to the Rainbow rocket boulder in font and measure all five there...

[GCW]

You pay, I'll go 

[Jim]

I prefer to climb than survey

[GCW]

So do I, but recent topics (ie Unjust Dyno) got me thinking and comparing.  How do you grade a dyno?
Without resorting to comparison with other dynos?

Chleb I Roze
Kena Loacha

[(woz)]

Up to a point the length of a dyno doesn't really affect the grade though - The dawes 6 incher that was brought up on here a while back being a prime example.

[r-man]

Hah, brilliant! Obsession makes the climbing world go round... 

So how big is the Unjust dyno then?

[monkey boy]

Rainbow rocket 7c+/8a is pretty massive! The biggest one (dyno that is) i have ever seen. Must be way over 2 metres, 2.5 maybe!
But yeh i think a dyno has to be massive to make it considerably hard, normally the angle and hold size determines the grade and of course the foot holds or lack of.

[Richie Crouch]

Quent's is soft still for the grade or maybe thats me being a lanky tw@! I'd say the Kirton Dyno felt harder seeing as it took more than way more than 2 attempts - all to do with the hold you are catching 

I'll have to get down to check out this unjust dyno you speak of 

[hongkongstuey]

Dynos at Stoney:
1.  Quents 205cm
2.  Kirton Dyno  180cm
3.  George's Wall Dyno  175cm
4.  One Arm Bandit  170cm
5.  Young American  157cm
6.  Megatron  155cm

Big Dyno at the Roaches has gotta be approaching 2m between handholds - have a photo of me on it somewhere and my feet are above the start hold when I'm at full stretch on the finish jug

[nash1]

I had forgotten about those dynos, how hard are they Font-wise btw??

Isn't Smash around 2m?
What about Froggy Dick??
Hale Bopp?
Come on, we need some nerd input here...

[SA Chris]

Come on, we need some nerd input here...

Some more nerd input you mean? 

[GCW]

Less of this conjecture please- we need proper measurements, not guesses.   
I've done Quent's twice.  Took less than 10 goes in 2000 and I thought it was very soft 7b.  Last week it took a couple of day's sweat, so it may be OK at 7b  (I'm 6'3").  Kirton is OK when you get the right bit of the hold, and catch it at the Point.  Same as any dyno I guess.
What's the world Dyno record now?  About 275cm or so?  So we've a bit more to do on the outdoor dyno front.....
Since it's p***ing it down today I may go and measure the Nexus and Unjust Dynos for comparison.  I'll let you know.

[BenF]

Less of this conjecture please- we need proper measurements, not guesses.

Should I find myself in the near future at Pex Hill with a measuring tape or metre rule, I promise to measure some of the big jumps there.  There are certainly some dynos of over 2.0m, maybe 2.2m. 

I am surprised that no-one has got onto this before and created some form of ranking or list of big jumps around the UK. 

[fatdoc]

quents is fuckin desperate once you realise you have to do a foot intermediate in flight... at 5 ft 7 that's what i have always tried... done all the others at minus ten, never took more than 1 session on each. seems to me that quets is the hardest there... though as it's a big holds to big hold sort of a leap it's not as fum as megatron or one armed bandit IMO. Then again, i can do them!!

[Bonjoy]

This one looks big

[r-man]

That one looks amazing. I notice on YG someone who says they are a V4 climber managed it 2nd go. V8/V4? Dynos eh, what are they like?

______

3.  George's Wall Dyno  175cm

GCW, are you sure about this one? I'm about that height and I seem to remember when I'm hanging the jug I can just get my feet on the handhold, which must mean it's a bit heigher (me + arm)? Did you measure to the jug in the break, or the sloper?

[GCW]

Nah, JP's only 5 foot tall 
Does look pretty big though.  How far is the Niche Dyno at Brimham?  Or the Tank Project at Wimbery?
Edit to r-man:  To the JUG.  The sloper is about 165cm.  Sorry.

[Bonjoy]

That one looks amazing. I notice on YG someone who says they are a V4 climber managed it 2nd go. V8/V4? Dynos eh, what are they like?

______

 Although not stated on YG this dyno is an eliminate as there are layaways up the wall. My guess would be that Mr V4 climbed the wall using these. It looked solid V8 to us as a dyno, it's a looong way and your going off a flatty rather than a jug.

[AndiT]

I thought with Quents you were meant to go to the sloper below the big hold in the break? Atleast that is how it used to be described. I remember hearing that he finally did it at 5.00 in the morning or something after leaving a night club early to get the right conditions?

The biggest dyno's must be those of an undercut to start type affair. I'd probably go for Stu's suggestion of the lower tier dyno at the Roaches, it is over two metres between holds. There are probably bigger foothold to hand hold ones though.

Maurice Gibb perhaps, that is really big!

[Bonjoy]

I thought with Quents you were meant to go to the sloper below the big hold in the break? Atleast that is how it used to be described. I remember hearing that he finally did it at 5.00 in the morning or something after leaving a night club early to get the right conditions?

That'll be George's Wall dyno your thinking of.

[r-man]

Edit to r-man:  To the JUG.  The sloper is about 165cm.  Sorry.

Huh. That's odd.

Although not stated on YG Solid Air is an eliminate as there are layaways up the wall. My guess would be that Mr V4 climbed the wall using these. It looked solid V8 to us as a dyno, it's a looong way and your going off a flatty rather than a jug.

That's good news. It's back in my amazing-things-to-try book.

There are probably bigger foothold to hand hold ones though.

Yeah, or possibly even foothold to somewhere above handhold. 2nd gen moves again. These are going to be the biggest.

[AndiT]

Yeah, or possibly even foothold to somewhere above handhold. 2nd gen moves again. These are going to be the biggest.

I think these are dodgy, where do you draw the line? I mean, does running up the slab at the back of Ramshaw count as the biggest dyno in the world, I mean I just keep kicking off and kicking off all the way to the top. If something is overhanging you can't do these 2nd Gen type things.

BonJoy, yes, of course you are correct, that is Georges Wall, my humble apologies.

[r-man]

I think these are dodgy, where do you draw the line? I mean, does running up the slab at the back of Ramshaw count as the biggest dyno in the world

Do you mean the huge slab just up the slope from the easy bouldering? I hadn't tried running. It's a little scary up there. Or do you mean a different one?

I'd say if you started hanging a hold on the rock, and the only way upwards was to propel yourself into a run, then that would be an absolutely brilliant dyno. I can't think of anything like this though... Most running slabs involve a run up from the ground, which whilst dynamic, is clearly not the same thing.

If something is overhanging you can't do these 2nd Gen type things.

Yes you can. Look at the picture of Solid Air above. (or the video - http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/video.html?id=eastby__solid_air&n=0 )

 It's the overhanging ones that are the best, because you have to get the timing just right - you can't stand up straight onto the hold as you'll hit the wall, and if you push back too much you'll end up miles away. Obviously having big footholds helps.

[GCW]

R-Man:  Don't forget these measurements are to the hold and do not take into account wrapping your fingers over a jug etc.  If you have a big bucket to catch (e.g. Quent's) this may add 10cm to the effective distance you need to travel.  Does that makes sense?

So we have:
1.  Quent's Dyno 205cm  Stoney
2.  Kirton Dyno  180cm  Stoney
3.  George's Wall Dyno  175cm  Stoney
4.  One Arm Bandit  170cm  Stoney
5.  Nexus Dyno  165cm  Brownstones (the original V4 is the furthest, so far)
6.  Young American  157cm  Stoney
7=.  Megatron  155cm Stoney
7=.  Unjust Dyno  155cm  Brownstones

I've been sneakily looking at some 2nd gen moves on the Nexus wall, but don't tell anybody