[andy popp]

Word up, Nick Dixon's new guide to Nesscliffe just dropped through my letter box. Is this the harderst sandstone crag in the country - 19 routes at E6 and above says yes! The guide details all the routes and bouldering, full photo topos and many action photos plus all the usual notes and an incident packed first ascent/history anthology. PLUS the first 500 copies come with a free 30 min DVD featuring climbing at the Shropshire temple. Whilst not a super ploshed production this gives a great tast of the atmosphere, history and contains a fair bit of E7/8 type action, including unstaged first ascents and early repeats. All in all, this guide is a must for anyone seriously interested in quality sandstone. Don't know how to get it yet as I had no idea it was arriving but will find out.

[andy popp]

Obviously, the DVD  couldnn't possibly be more ploshed, it could be a tiny bit morepolished though

[Fiend]

Excellent. Not that useful for me but will be keen to check it out - and the DVD too. Keep us posted!

[fatneck]

The Owen just texted to inform me he purchased the guide today. As he was in North Wales, I assume it's available from V12 in 'Beris. Looking forward to watching the DVD!

[Houdini]

Excuse the hi-jack: but isn't it about time that Nesscliffe endured a serious and comprehensive bout of bolting?

Naughty Nick!  How long will you bash wank pegs into sandstone (that naturally since they are pegs, offer some serious E-waddage for the 1st ascentionist!) that more than likely will end up a rotten joke (and not a very well executed one at that) within a few short years?

You do want to see your routes repeated, don't you?  Y'know, maybe people actually would like to do those routes (without pre-practice) ....

[fatdoc]

 good effort to all involved.

i was an "original" nesscliff pioneer in 83 to 87...my bolts are in the route(S) R of the cave, my mate soloed the E7/8 of berlin wall in 85 (dont know the grade now... might be less - but that's what we reckoned at the time)

never recorded my routes properly: dont care if they get 1st ascent from others.....

however: the bolting issue is quite complex -  the rock is WAY soft..... perhaps new resin technology can overcome this.... end of the day i always percieved the place to be a bit of a bouldering mecca and headpoint venue... if my old routes are bolted now... i dont care -as long as they are repeated.

if you've never been there then GO... you will be amazed with the bouldering - and truly scared witless from the routes.. not a minor venue at all. there are quarries 5 times as big nearby..... shropshire is a wierd place to climb: but always full on...... my childhood venues so always *rose tinted spectacles* will be used - however there are some BIG graded routes there, respect to those that have lead them..... cos it's often "death on a stick"

once again, full respect to those that have pushed the limits there -  the place is nails!!!

[luckyjez]

we will be selling it in Outside, Hathersage from Monday (i.e. tomorrow). it's kind of modern and old skool all at the same time.

[Houdini]

The guide plus DVD is also available in V12, Llanber'.

[Johnny Brown]

Can't wait. Haven't been back since my days as a local

[fatdoc]

i'm getting it asap


bloody good effort

[Paz]

Off the top of my head there are probably more E6s at Huntsham (including some as easy as E3 ;-)), but with more E8s than the two at Huntsham (I think, off top of my head) and it's stunning nails aretes and Nick Di - Di - Dixon's grades, I think Nesscliffe retains the crown of hardest UK sandstone crag.  Unless there's owt in t' County or Scotland. 

If we're talking projects, however...

[squeek]

if you've never been there then GO... you will be amazed with the bouldering - and truly scared witless from the routes.. not a minor venue at all. there are quarries 5 times as big nearby

I've never been down, but could be interested.  Is the new guide just to Nesscliffe, or does it also include these quarries nearby?

[fatneck]

Just watched the DVD and it actually got me psyched to do some routes 
Had a flick through the guide last night, nice to see Font grades included.
Good effort!

[andy popp]

my mate soloed the E7/8 of berlin wall in 85 (dont know the grade now... might be less - but that's what we reckoned at the time)

never recorded my routes properly:

This is a truly astounding revelation. You say you thought E7/8 (the grade it now gets protected by two pegs btw) but with forty foot of technical and friable 7c+ climbing, precarious crux at the top and no mats I would have thought it was E9. That's amazing, the UK's first E9 wasn't Indian Face in Oct 86 but Berlin Wall sometime in 85. In fact the first E8s (Doug, Gaia) weren't till spring 86 so your mate took Britain straight from E7 to E9. You say you didn't record routes properly but you did accurately record several much easier and less significant routes at Nesscliffe. Maybe, like Puttrell's eponymous crack at Black Rocks, you felt this one was so unjustifiable as to be best left unrecorded. To then not step forward when Berlin Wall was first reported as a lead (in worse style with the placing of the pegs) and then repeated (89 and 90) shows modesty and reticence of saintly proportions! UK climbing deserves the full details so the history books can be put right.

[Pantontino]

It all sounds very intriguing.

Fatdoc, who was your mate? Unless the route has changed significantly (hold breakage), then it could be that he was unwittingly the main man.

[fatdoc]

Si, Andy,

you got PM

[Johnny Brown]

Why the secrecy? Tell us all!

[andy popp]

I think its something that is probably quite sensitive for fatdoc for various reasons. I've pm'd him and may post something if (when) I hear from him. I hope he doesn't mind me saying that much.

[fatdoc]

it's cool.

my mate in question died in a tragic accident not long after the ascent... i'm pretty clueless on what exactly was done and when for the year or so around that time. I'm convinced he did climb it. I cant give dates, verification or even any discernable proof.

I never did the line; so i didnt know it was (is) that hard.

Gonna be a  bit of a mystery for eternity I'm afraid. I wouldnt change the history books over it... my mate honestly wouldnt want the fuss, trust me.

What is more important is that line is actually climbed these days, hence my enthusiasm in the posts above. One redeeming factor in the whole business is the hard work the developers have put in to Nesscliffe. Then producing a guide, respect. It's in a wierd way deeply satisfying that the playground of my (and my mate's) youth is now getting comprehensive exposure by way of a quality guide.

If you've not been - go.... but be prepared to toprope only on the routes; i remember being more frightened there than any other crag!!

Having  a wider debate on the use of bolts there to improve the ground up attempt rate would probably be a useful exercise IMO.

[clm]

ill stick that one on the christmas list.
heros the lot of oyu if you have climbed there. i found it desperately sandy.

[clm]

150 feet high

[clm]

nice!

[Johnny Brown]

Respect to your mate fatdoc, he sounds like a bit of a legend.

Personally I'm not in favour of bolts in any circumstances, I certainly don't think Nesscliffe needs them.

[r-man]

Some pretty awesome looking rock...

http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/gallery_two.htm
http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/gallery_three.htm

[Fiend]

Got the book, very nice, very functional and some well inspiring photos (Alison Martindale on that super shallow groove - awesome!), good history too. The only thing I thought, the routes could have done with some more lively descriptions to capture their character.

It is one of the few places that really makes me wish I was a better climber as the lines look just perfect. Still, I've got Marlene and a couple of E3s to give a go, it's enough...

[Greg C]

Can't wait. Haven't been back since my days as a local

I found this image of you back in the Nesscliffe area, what's with the fancy get-up? 

[Johnny Brown]

Well the combination of the crag being banned and an ever-present highwayman meant dressing as an ageing clergyman was the only way to secure hassle-free access

[dontfollowme]

I have the old acetate guide - is it worth upgrading to this new one? I would be using it as a bouldering guide.