[Big Frank]

Will it ever happen in Yorkshire.
Will there be a guide "Yorkshire Limestone Bouldering"
Have you bouldered on Limestone in Yorkshire?

[hongkongstuey]

is there any bouldering on Yorkshire Limestone??????????

[Big Frank]

No but there must be tons of potential.

I've expressed this opinion on RT with little reply.

Mark my words it will come.

[Bubba]

Hmmm.....Wetherby.....hmmmmm........  

[dave]

Isn't there claimed to be boldering at the base of kilnsey, like the "Mandala training traverse?"

Roche Abbey is in Yorkshire anyway.

[Big Frank]

Wetherby!!!!

I was thinking more along the lines of all those smaller edges in upper wharfedale around Kettelwell (sp).
And how about problem starts and sit downs at Kilnsey?

[Bubba]

Is this some sort of sick wind-up to get us to trudge miles across midge-infested moors to find some crumbling choss death  

I've even thought about this in the Peak, looking at stuff in Lathkill Dale, etc but then suddenly come to my senses again.

Have you looked at any?

[Stu Littlefair]

Leave Wetherby alone!

I spent many a happy day as a youth, folded up chip wrapper as a chalk bag swinging my way along the lip traverse and dangling from the big smelly roof with the fre damage. Happy Days.

There's some great bouldering at Kilnsey, and I've done a bit at Crummackdale and Attermire. I'm sure there's quite a lot, waiting for some fat weak punter with time on their hands.... :D

[Big Frank]

Bubba, in a word No. Not in Yorkshire anyway.

[Bubba]

I actually quite like some of the limestone bouldering at Symonds Yat - no that's obscure! I must admint I've only actually been to Wetherby once, and was then tempted away again by the grit.

Could be a new summertime activity - seems a shame to waste valuable grit friction in the winter.

 PS Stu, you don't have to be so polite in your signature - we can say Fuck! on here you know  

[Stu Littlefair]

Quite, Bubba, Quite.

As you can see by the fact that I have used my full, given name, as my moniker, and not some "fly" handle, I'm not quite "down with the kids" :D

Also, I try to be as polite as possible to people I've never met and would never actually use words like f*ck, or heaven forbid, arse-munch.

[Bubba]

Yeah, man - sheesh, you're just so Old Skool dood! Using yer own name, how unhip canya get man  

I like to encourage swearing on this board (oh shit, what have I said?) in order to help those poor souls who've been repressed for far too long on the other nice polite uk boards.

[dave]

I like to encourage swearing on this board.

Thats just what i've been waiting to fucking hear for cunting ages. From now on I'll be twatting swearing like theres no shitting tomorrow. Everyone will bollocky think i've bastard well got ass-licking tourette gaylord syndrome.

[Bubba]

That's it! Come on Dave, let it out! Release the tension maaaan!

[dave]

Its just like everytime i fall of a frustrating boulder problem, serious effing and blinding.

Its shit on ukclimbing, you can't even say "meltwater" without an asterisk appearing in the middle.

[Bubba]

Right, that's it - you've said the M word - how could you say m*ltwat*r on this board?!

We may have to ban you for that little display, some people always just take it too far!

[bouldermonkey]

Sorry to dig this up from the dark ages past...

however, have many of you kind folk bouldered up at wetherby?  if so, whats it like?

I'm coming back to the sport after a 4 year lay off so ideally I'm around the V2 V3 grade.. Ive got Yorkshire Gritstone Bouldering by Rock Fax (Alan Cameron-Duff) and they qualify the lower V numbers as being "not worth a special visit".

Is this the case?

I only ask as i have a week off work and I'm considering a day out to wetherby.. its gotta be wetherby as i don't drive and I'm coming from York.

Any advise, tips, views and comments on wetherby (or any other easily accessible crags on public transport) would be GREATLY appreciated.

Many Thanks in advance.

BM.

[SA Chris]

Thats some amazing excavation work, 4 years old! Wetherby is great for working stamina, as the rock is so polished you can just about traverse forever without wearing out the skin on your fingertips. You just need to keep an eye out for dog turds when you eventually fall off. Could be combined with Hetchell if you get bored. If finding a problem of a certain grade and then beating it into submission is tour thing, probably best not to bother.

[webbo]

you could get the bus/ train to leeds then caley or ilkley are accessable on the bus.or go to oaklands climbing wall and and post a note on the message board for lifts/partners.there are quite a lot of climbers operating out of york at the moment. 

[Bonjoy]

 Did notice quite a lot of people going to Kilnsey this year just to boulder, something I have never seen before.

[bouldermonkey]

Cheers folks,

Better late than never, i took a trip to wetherby over the bank holiday just gone 

And i must say, very pleasently surprised!!

The sun was shining, the brass band pumping out patriotic tunes, such as Land of Hope and Glory, British Grenadiers etc... and as i lay my fingers on the start holes, and made the first pull up from the sit start, they piped up with Rule Britannia..   

Definately be going back there, lovely crag, ideal facilities, and excellent location.

[Fiend]

The sun was shining, the brass band pumping out patriotic tunes,

The essence of any good climbing day out!

[moose]

The sun was shining, the brass band pumping out patriotic tunes.... Definately be going back there, lovely crag, ideal facilities, and excellent location.

Crikey I must just have been in a bad mood when I went last month.  The appropriate part of my YGB guide has annotated with the phrase "multi-storey pigeon toilet" and I resolved to drive the three times longer to Rubicon / Raven if I ever felt the urge for lime again!  Perhaps it was the music when you went though: they say "patriotism is the last refuge of a scoundrel", maybe the same applies to dubious crags?!

[Stubbs]

Aren't you from the NE Moose?  You should check out the bouldering at Kilnsey if you haven't already as that must be one of the closest bits of limestone to you?  Plenty to go at - the best lines are non eliminate and quite obvious, including the starts to a few of the routes on the left hand end.

[dave]

Aren't you from the NE Moose?  You should check out the bouldering at Kilnsey if you haven't already as that must be one of the closest bits of limestone to you? 

you're forgetting Houghton Graveyard. I hear it gives Kilnsey wuite a run for its money in the "dave's never been to this crag" stakes.

[Andy B]

Closest Limestone bouldering to Newcastle:

The Cove, a genuinely good quality venue, although you have to resort to eliminates if you want anything too hard.

Houghton graveyard: where every visitor gets a first ascent as the holds are never the same twice. gr and myself bolted some of the lines there and kept drilling through into holes inside the surface, which we tried to fill with glue. Alot of glue. Steve Crowe cunningly reduced the frequency of this happening by placing half the number of bolts in the routes he did.

[moose]

Aren't you from the NE Moose?  You should check out the bouldering at Kilnsey if you haven't already as that must be one of the closest bits of limestone to you?  Plenty to go at - the best lines are non eliminate and quite obvious, including the starts to a few of the routes on the left hand end.

Cheers for the advice fellas.  Unfortunately I no longer live in Durham - unemployment has forced a retreat to my parents' house in Selby (between York and Leeds).  Kilnsey is still an option though - what's the bouldering like and are there any topos available (other than using the Northern Lime routes guide and climbing to an arbitary height)?

[andy_e]

Selby eh? That's a lot closer to Leeds then, so I guess we'll be seeing more of you down the wall or Almscliffe?

[moose]

Aye andy,  midweek visits to Almscliff now have a new terror beyond cowshit and mini-buses of delinquent kids.  Although you should be safe at the wall - the flexibility of unemployment means I only go when I want to buy some chalk.

[SA Chris]

If I had unlimited free time I wouldn't bother with the wall either. Is this period of unemployment currently infinite? Or do you have anything lined up?

[Paul B]

Kilnsey is still an option though - what's the bouldering like and are there any topos available (other than using the Northern Lime routes guide and climbing to an arbitary height)?

I don't think theres anything written about it apart from the Mandala training traverse. There are lots of boulder problem starts to things such as deja vu and ground effect that DO have a semi-sensible end to them but to be honest I think anyone who goes to Kilnsey to boulder is pretty mental. Why not just go on some of the more bouldery routes of which there are plenty?

[moose]

If I had unlimited free time I wouldn't bother with the wall either. Is this period of unemployment currently infinite? Or do you have anything lined up?

The unemployment is intended to be only temporary: my job kind of had an end-point that I decided not to fight and instead take a bit of a sabatical (it had been a long few years).  I am off on that "vertical world" trip to the Sinai over October and hopefully by Christmas I'll have decided what I want to do for a living and have made some progress towards it.  In the meantime though I have a very long ticklist to keep me occupied....

Paul B - Re the interest in bouldering on Yorkshire Lime - the reason I don't just go and try some short bouldery routes is because I have no friends to belay me and am getting a bit bored with sieging my usual grit bouldering projects (rather than being "a bit mental".... although that's not to say that I am not... it's just not the reason).

[Stubbs]

Why not just go on some of the more bouldery routes of which there are plenty?

Because as soon as I put a rope on I stop having fun and can only climb about english 5b 

[Paul B]

each to their own I guess. The best person to ask about it would probably be Steve Dunning or one of the other locals.

From Memory there is (L to R):

Mandala Trainnig Traverse
Between Metal Guru and Man with a gun there are about four obvious lines of crimps
Some fingery project
Deja Vu Start
Ground effect
Frankie Comes to Kilnsey Start (Roof)

Extreme Right hand end:
Smooth Torquer Start

[andy_e]

Extreme Right hand end:
Smooth Torquer Start

Might as well do the rest of the route...

What are the other things around there? Isn't there a 7c somewhere?

[Paul B]

"More Rhubarb Faster"