[tommytwotone]

Word, was having a crack at this on Satdy but no joy...anyone care to share some shortie-beta?

I had a heel-toe in with right foot, sort of walked my left foot up lower rock while bumping right hand up arete until I got the good hold with it. Then I released the heel-toe and flew off...any tips?

[Ru]

I think I did it pretty much the same. Jug with right hand, stand up and bounce left up arete, then heel and toe right foot. Then I may have matched the arete with both handsto get my left on the good hold. I then used a small crimp on the face to the right with my right hand to release the heel/toe. There's proably an easier method than this though.

[Aussiegav]

i got around the swing problem by palm pressing down on the big flatty with my right hand.then releasing the heel toe.
from start
work both hands up arete. left on good bit , right cupping arete just above left hand. bounce left foot uplower ramp. then palm with right outside edge of right hand.slowly bring right foot out and step on to good right foot hold near palm. bring right hand back up arete. stand go to good hold up high on arete, match. get feet up and go straight to top. i think the hold out right is abit of a red herring. have done it this way too. but the throw to the top seems easier.

think there will be a clip on moonclimbing in the near future...

[Johnny Brown]

I'll second the palm beta.

[Ru]

I'll second the palm beta.

There we go then. Using the crimp did seem like using limestone tactics on grit. 

[tommytwotone]

Ahh, I'm rushing - I ended up LF on ramp, RF heel toe and RH all the way up onto the high good hold. Need to do some jiggering about to get my hands sorted. Defo on my list for next time I'm up.

Cheers f't numbers chaps.

[bigphil]

Crimp worked for me, though I had to pull myself quite close in to the rock when releasing the heel/toe to stop myself swinging off.  I was usually so suprised not to swing out that I fell off before getting my right foot onto the good low hold.

[Fiend]

Missed this. I found the trick with the heel-toe was not to release it completely, but really DRAG your foot out, maintaining as much rubber on the rock as possible. That stopped the swing. Good problem. Topped out in a hailstorm.

[mark]

Drag your left heel on the left wall around the arete. That does a lot to curtail the swing when you release the heel-toe.

[Jim]

I'll second fiends beta. really squeeze your whole body against the arete and drag the heel/toe out nice and slow

[tommytwotone]

I'll second fiends beta. really squeeze your whole body against the arete and drag the heel/toe out nice and slow

Like Usher yo...

[Jim]

Right then, did this again today.
The beta.
pull on.
heel-toe
walk hands up arete and move LF up the ramp.
when you have good hold left of arete with LH and Guppy on arete with RH (really squeeze the guppy)
push down all your weight onto LF which should be directly below you, release heel-toe nice and slow.
match feet, transfer all you weight onto your right foot, put you left foot and knee around the arete and pull up to get RF on good foothold.
then go for crimp out right and then top (or just top depending on how strong/tall you are)

[Stubbs]

This is all good if you are tall enough to reach the two good holds with the footlock in, if not it is somewhat more taxing....

[a dense loner]

you must work for ken dodd stubbs, jim isn't known for his impressions of an albatross

[Stubbs]

I'm 5'11 with 0 ape index btw.

That means he has four inches on me, as it were.

[a dense loner]

jim deals in hyperbole. 5.11 indeed, with arms that finish at his elbows

[Bonjoy]

[Jim]

That does it, I'm getting the tape measure out.
Then I'll measure my height and wingspan whilst I'm at it 

[Johnny Brown]

5'11" !!! Is this his 'stage height'?

Ru is about 5' 5", which may make his beta more useful. However he can one-arm monos, so then again, maybe not.

[Jim]

[Somebody's Fool]

I thought this was about Breakfast.  You could feed a family for a week with that gent...