[BenF]

For some reason I've never been to Wharncliffe, but intend to soon.  So here's some questions for people.   

What's it like in terms of conditions and drying?  Does it get much wind?  Does it dry quickly? 

Thank you.

[Bonjoy]

 It get a fair bit of wind. Quick drying apart from the top holds on some probs (Jorge and Ogilvie's Direct) which can stay green and wet after rain, a chalky rag usually sorts the top of Jorge out if it has had the green cleaned off. Most probs like Curvaceous, Blunted, Dragon Slayer, Jelly Eyes, Sweet Release etc all have no green on them to get wet. Parson's Finch has not been done in ages so might need cleaning. I've climbed there several times between showers on wet days. The Outlook area is more sheltered from the wind, but the probs are largely green free. As the rock is very fine grained temps affect friction quite a bit.

[monkey boy]

I have never been either but would like to sometime. Are there any new problems that are not in the guide? Or perhaps any projects?
Cheers

[BenF]

Thanks Bonjoy, much appreciated.  I hope to sample your efforts up there soon.

[Bonjoy]

Nothing new that I know of. Project wise, there are posibilities for v hard sit starts to Jorge and Curvaceous. The area of the crag described as the Upper Tier in the route guide has some potential for new things. Various stuff has been done there in the past but not documented (see how I leave myself open for some dreaded retro claiming). Would probably make for a good circuit with some hard stuff. It's one of the places I mean to develop if I get the time and no one beats me to it.

[fatdoc]

if the crags hold the water like the DH MTB tracks then you'll nedd some good cons to get the best out of the place

[BenF]

Went up to the Dragon Den area on Saturday and had a lot of fun indeed.  Some good stuff there so credit to Bonjoy and others who developed the problems.  Was perfectly dry throughout.

Particularly enjoyed Dragon Slayer, Blunted, the 6a+ version of Jorge (that really needs a name) and Oglivies Direct (with a route feel as I topped out the near 30 foot buttress in a near gale).  Dragon Slayer was especially good and really didn't feel eliminate 'cos you're forced to pinch the arete and don't feel the need to use the right wall or the big holds on the left side.  Found it well worth 7a+ and thought I was gonna get a hernia or have a heart attack when I did it.  Left me fucked to be honest.  Lots of cool pinching and hooking.

Got my ass kicked by Parson's Finch though.  Anyone got beta for this?  Fron the slopey edge things I was trying to use a pitiful sloper on the arete (below the lip) with my right, then going again to the slopey top.  This was hard.  Any tips?

Cheers.

[Bonjoy]

There's a load of beta and a pic for Parson's Finch and other stuff here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6201.0.html
Glad you had a good time.
 When I did Parson's finch I had to cut a big branch off the birch tree on the right. has the tree grown much onto the problem in the intervening years?

[BenF]

I noticed the sawn off tree business, but it hasn't really grown back much.  I moved a few twiggy bits out of the way, but it wasn't in the way much. 

I'll check out that other thread, thanks.

(ten minutes passes...)

Edit: Just checked the other thread.  Doh.  Note to self: use the search function

[r-man]

Checked this place out today. It's a nice spot, and pleasantly sheltered on what was a very windy day. Some nice problems, and lots to come back for. Only had time to look at the Dragon's Den area. Dragon's Den was fun and Olgivie's was good.

That 6a+ to the right of Dragon's Den where you have to hike your foot onto a smear - bloody desperate. Though I did notice earlier you mentioned this crag is very friction dependant - perhaps if it was colder those holds would have felt grippier.

Played on Blunted, though now I read we weren't supposed to either use the block to the right or finish straight up. 
 I'll try it without the block next time.

Coupla pics



Noticed there are some good pics here n all
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,3618.msg46827.html#msg46827

[Bonjoy]

I'm pretty sure that RH block on Blunted was burried under the grass when I did it. It's great moves the sans block way and quite tough. Having been back a few times I think most of the probs there are rather tough at the grade. I hadn't put up many new probs at the time and was eager not to overgrade.
Did you not do any of the Dynos (Crouching Tiger, Jorge, Jelly Eyes proper) R-man, i'd have thought they were right up your alley?

[r-man]

I did briefly try the eliminate dyno from the break, but managed to shave off three knuckles greasing off the hold. Due to under-estimating both travel time and walk-in (next time we're going straight up the A61 and then parking as for the 1min approach!), and having to fit in with other plans, we only had a short time to play, so only got to try one or two of the problems. Don't worry though, I was suitably impressed and will certainly be back - can't understand why no one is ever keen to go here - I think there is some bizarre prevailing logic that because nobody ever goes, it's probably not worth going.

What are those large rubber flap paddle type things racked up in the field just after chase lodge? Sheep beaters? Sheep's beaters? Beep Sheaters? I haven't a clue, though I realise it may not actually involve sheep or beating.

[Dr T]

What are those large rubber flap paddle type things racked up in the field just after chase lodge? Sheep beaters? Sheep's beaters? Beep Sheaters? I haven't a clue, though I realise it may not actually involve sheep or beating.

never been to the place but these things sound like fire beaters, i.e for beating out fires...
nearly every bracken common down here (the south) has them, but if you wish the beat sheep with them just don't let the farmer or the RSPCA see you doing it 

[r-man]

Ah, I see!


Presumably though, if the sheep were on fire you'd be within your rights to beat them.



Don't worry, it's not real.

[Dr T]

Presumably though, if the sheep were on fire you'd be within your rights to beat them.

certainly..... 

[Mark Lloyd]

Any idea when the mountain biking routes dry out ?

[r-man]

No, but for what's it's worth, we saw bikers there when we were out.

[BID]

Did Pete’s route yesterday. Next to outlook roof.
Absolutely magic. Bit of everything. Bit serious. Incredible at font 5.
I’d do the walk in just for that.

[Bonjoy]

Nice one, I agree it's a great prob.

Instagrammers may have seen I've done loads of new things at Wharncliffe in the last year. I'm about half way through making a topo at the moment. The new stuff more than doubles the amount of recorded bouldering and includes some really good stuff and new area.

[BID]

I shall await it with much intrest 

[JamieG]

I drove past Wharncliffe the other day and wondered why I'd never been. So am planning a visit in the near future and just wanted a couple pointers. Is the bottom parking on station lane the best bet? Some other threads mention break ins. Or is it better on the top road?

Where is the best place to start? Dragon's Den and Lodge Buttress area?

Also Bonjoy did you manage to finish the updated topo?

Thanks.

[mark20]

Where you park would depend on which bit you want to visit.
I’ve parked at the bottom a few times and never had a problem. The break ins I heard of were vans, parked further up that road where the path starts. you can park slightly further down the road , before the Lowood Club in view of the houses, which feels much safer. This is still the best approach for the main Hell gate area.

I park on a gravel lay-by near the stone yard at the top and approach down the obvious track, to a big tree, straight down the slope then follow the wall , see map on peakbouldering http://peakbouldering.info/areas/1-eastern-grit/crags/18-wharncliffe#.X2MYHCXTXYV

I think Jon has a different parking and approach for the Lodge area ?

[JamieG]

Cheers Mark. Although for some reason the peakbouldering.info map doesn't show on my computer. But I think I've found where you mean on google maps.

[Bonjoy]

Sorry, life and other distractions keep getting in the way of finishing the topo.

[JamieG]

No worries Bonjoy. I've got plenty to go at in the current guide to get me started. And If I climbing something new, you can have all the pleasure of retro claiming.