UKBouldering.com

Font. Lets get psyched.... (Read 6757 times)

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 06:41:47 pm
right then, looking for some recomendations for problems of the 7th grade, preferably off the beaten track a little.
Will be definately going to do peter pan and going to have a look at hotline.
Also if you could include a link to the problem(s) on bleau.info it would be great  :thumbsup: (I'm very lazy recently)

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
#1 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 07:02:06 pm
Not exactly off the beaten track but Eclispe and that Sybile thingumajig at Cul de/du (?) Chien.  Oh and Megalithe (area escapes me at the mo.  You have the 7 & 8's guide I guess.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#2 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 07:27:20 pm
You have the 7 & 8's guide I guess.
people without one should be shot on site IMHO
The greatest climbing guide ever produced without a doubt

There are 2 megalithe, both 7c+
http://bleau.info/germain/902-9831.html
http://bleau.info/greau/888.html

Blunk

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 414
  • Karma: +37/-0
#3 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 07:33:08 pm

The greatest climbing guide ever produced without a doubt

Subtle yet effective. Featuring lots of white space within which to insert your dreams. Fantastic!

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#4 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 07:40:54 pm
just spotted a problem at haute plains that looks right up my street and rather good but is not in the 7&8's:
Lapin ou canard 7A. according to bleau.info, scouse, parry and duma have done it. Is it any good?
one for the list me thinks...

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5827
  • Karma: +237/-5
#5 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 07:55:47 pm
yeah tis class - is in 7+8 as 'ah, plus facile' but that was an error. sit start through jugs in roof, exit rightwards on slopers. carrying straight on to finish up the nose is 'ah plus facile' -fair bit harder and not as good.

On this note did some good stuff at the top of isatis last week round 'de vitea beata' (sp?) froggy dick(7b) is a class dyno, and the roof on the back of the same boulder is also fun. Iceberg is obviously class, but you know about that...

Manoury,(http://bleau.info/maunoury/7a++.html) the area behind Dame Jouanne is always quiet despite the coach loads at Elephant & DJ and has some great stuff - 'les tetines', 'baboo', and 'irreversible' looks like one of the lines of the forest to me, like an overhanging 'onde de choc', worth a go so long as you've got a few mats and spotters.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#6 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 08:02:33 pm
done baboo (or baloo) is excellent.
am keen for mowgli and baguera which also both look excellent.
Thanks for the info about lapin ou canard

fatboySlimfast

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1557
  • Karma: +49/-1
#7 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 08:41:23 pm
this i do believe

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
#8 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 08:48:02 pm

unclesomebody

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1-5-NEIN!
  • Posts: 1696
  • Karma: +148/-9
  • more business, less party.
#9 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 09:08:20 pm
Megalithe at Greau is good but a little bit eliminate. It is a great line though.

However, Irreversible at Dame Jouanne is amazing. It's a perfect looking line, just the right height, great sandy landing, and a great grade, 7C (hardish but definitely doable!). Get it done!

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#10 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 10:56:38 pm
Went for my first time last week. Damn font is good.

Favourite problem was this little beauty at Cusiniere -  Impasse du Hasard - http://bleau.info/cuisiniere/479.html - Hidden in a corridor, but class moves to gaston a big straight edge, then turn it into a layaway. Powerful and technical, really satisfying. Much better done static from the two crimps, rather than a french start as in the videos.

More off the beaten track, this looked really good, though didn't get a chance to try it
http://bleau.info/merveille/1225.html - also it's on the way to la reconnaisance, where you could try this - http://bleau.info/reconnaissance/1469.html which is on a really amazing wave of rock. Some other good stuff in the 7s there as well, definitely off the beaten track (20-30min walk from the car).


a dense loner

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 7165
  • Karma: +388/-28
#11 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
October 31, 2006, 11:38:38 pm
Will be definately going to do peter pan

it's a good job we've got 2 cars then


Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1375
  • Karma: +73/-2
#12 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 08:20:16 am
Lapin ou Canard is pretty good word(a touch soft too). The Left hand exit (ah plus facile) is good too and again pretty soft at 7a+.
Descente aux enfers(incorrectly called Beetlejuice in 7 and 8's and on bleau.info) is a really good powerful problem, hardly off the beaten track, being next to excalibur, but well worth doing.

Somebody's Fool

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1053
  • Karma: +124/-6
#13 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 08:56:18 am
That Festin de Pierre looks quite good.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
#14 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 09:10:26 am
Get yourselves on Fluid Magnetique and Moby Dick - Cuvier, Nouvelle Vague - if the weather forces a visit to the Dog's Arse, Pensees Cachee (sp?) if you haven't already done it - Cuisinere.

Duma

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 5827
  • Karma: +237/-5
#15 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 09:38:23 am
http://bleau.info/merveille/1225.html - also it's on the way to la reconnaisance, where you could try this - http://bleau.info/reconnaissance/1469.html which is on a really amazing wave of rock. Some other good stuff in the 7s there as well, definitely off the beaten track (20-30min walk from the car).
Bleaus art is class, and well soft for 7b.
Have tried morphine assis but felt well hard, though the boulder it's on is truly awesome.
However, Irreversible at Dame Jouanne is amazing. It's a perfect looking line, just the right height, great sandy landing, and a great grade, 7C (hardish but definitely doable!). Get it done!
You done this uncle? I always seem to turn up at manoury fucked, but this really is top of the pile for Febuarys trip.

Scouse D

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1375
  • Karma: +73/-2
#16 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 10:22:21 am
Moby dick is awesome. Not that I did it but andy did. I tried it in wack nick and it was an amazing problem.

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#17 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 07:21:09 pm
That Festin de Pierre looks quite good.

I heard that somewhere as well :furious:

dontfollowme

Online
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0
#18 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 07:27:04 pm
I like the look of this:

http://bleau.info/isatis/548-3112.html

edited to remove attempt at including bleau photo
« Last Edit: November 01, 2006, 07:39:40 pm by dontfollowme »

Jim

Offline
  • *****
  • Trusted Users
  • forum hero
  • Mostly Injured
  • Posts: 8629
  • Karma: +234/-18
  • Pregnant Horse
    • Bouldering POI's for tomtom
#19 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 07:34:54 pm
it is very good. the trick is to pinch the arete. Its my font party piece so to speak

dontfollowme

Online
  • ****
  • Trusted Users
  • junky
  • Posts: 955
  • Karma: +13/-0
#20 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 01, 2006, 07:47:11 pm
it is very good. the trick is to pinch the arete. Its my font party piece so to speak

I'm keen to have a go on it when I go  :)

unclesomebody

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1-5-NEIN!
  • Posts: 1696
  • Karma: +148/-9
  • more business, less party.
#21 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 13, 2006, 08:25:30 am
Even though Jim and Co. are already there, I thought these problems were worth sharing. Both in the area of Montrouget (where the abandoned house is  :whistle:) and both are steep and probably quite powerful. If you hate power look away now;

Trois Trous de Suspension, 8A

Coup de Patte, 7C which looks eminently flashable for those who care about such things (me).

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#22 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 13, 2006, 01:54:52 pm
Coup de Patte, 7C which looks eminently flashable for those who care about such things

especially as someones been kind enough to put up a vid' with 2 different sets of beta!

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9644
  • Karma: +266/-4
#23 Re: Font. Lets get psyched....
November 13, 2006, 03:25:33 pm
Coup de Patte, 7C which looks eminently flashable for those who care about such things (me).

Good find! Looks nice and basic.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal