UKBouldering.com

Dai sends V15/16.... again (Read 3486 times)

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
Dai sends V15/16.... again
January 19, 2007, 12:12:10 pm
From DrTopo

Dai work Hydrangea V15/V16

In this stylish and urban video hosted by the German media website Lowcut, the strong Dai Koyamada works a really hard problem at Shiobara, Japan.  Koyamada finally sent Hydrangea (V15/16) in December 2006.

Climbing.com reports that Hydrangea is an addition of a six-move V11/12 sit start to his existing problem Hydra (V14) at Shiobara, Japan. The complete problem has 25 moves and spans about 45 feet, including a 30-foot horizontal roof. Koyamada quotes:  "I completed the project which I had been working for a year at Shiobara on 30th November.  It is 8m long, overhangs 160° degrees and has 17 moves which needs monster power of mono and two finger pocket". (8a.nu)


Effort....

StuM

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 63
  • Karma: +1/-0
    • stuart mcneil photography
#1 Re: Dai sends V15/16.... again
January 19, 2007, 12:22:48 pm
bon effort  :bow:

160 degrees must be really steep considering 90 is horizontal  :o

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#2 Re: Dai sends V15/16.... again
January 19, 2007, 12:23:55 pm
Sounds suspiciously like caving to me...

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13479
  • Karma: +682/-68
  • Whut
#3 Re: Dai sends V15/16.... again
January 19, 2007, 12:38:55 pm
Effort.

When I'm on anything 45' long I'm taking a full rack.

Dr T

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1518
  • Karma: +49/-3
#4 Re: Dai sends V15/16.... again
January 19, 2007, 12:46:26 pm
160 degrees must be really steep considering 90 is horizontal  :o
  Think he means from flat so a straight up would be 90 so if my maths serves it's what we'd call 70 deg overhang

 thing that gets me is how effortless he makes it look, Sharma grunts and squeezes as you can see (hear) him working, Dai seems to float...

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4248
  • Karma: +332/-1
    • On Steep Ground
#5 Re: Dai sends V15/16.... again
January 19, 2007, 03:54:47 pm
thing that gets me is how effortless he makes it look, Sharma grunts and squeezes as you can see (hear) him working, Dai seems to float...

Yeah, it's the same on that Wheel of Life thing. On the video he pretty much cruise it, on the final V14 boulder-prob one there's one move that looks not completely trivial.

sasscotty

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 156
  • Karma: +9/-1
#6 Re: Dai sends V15/16.... again
January 21, 2007, 08:02:40 pm
 :o good effort :bow:
Wonder how long it takes tyler to repeat it ;D

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal