[Dingdong]

Quite a few people have done it from a true sitter already E.g. Jim and Shauna

[csl]

Definitely. I demand a video of him doing the Alliance if he's 5 '5, that would be awesome. The Thick End of the Wedge vid is good too, presumably the slip is on home cooking?

Yeah he's well into Home Cooking when he almost bins it. Equal parts hilarious and impressive! Just seems to completely forget how to use his feet having done all the hard climbing 

https://youtu.be/1d00n6-6Et0?si=97hxRvBskROkrPzb

Daniel Woods level toping out skills.

I thought he was on his own but there's someone operating the camera, I would have been asking politely for a spot!

Also, he looks more like 5' 7 to me. With +1 ape index

Video description here says 175cm - which is just shy of 5'9", with a 5'7" ape.

[Bradders]

Quite a few people have done it from a true sitter already E.g. Jim and Shauna

Is there a video of Shauna doing it? Only ones I can see are heavily edited together, and it looks like she had a pretty big stack of pads.

I did hear she did it more than once on the day.

[Johnny Brown]

Not sure if you're after proof or beta? I was there when Jim did it, off the floor or at most 1 thin pad as I recall. Even more impressive given his lack of reach.

[Bradders]

Can't I just be interested?

[Dingdong]

Here’s the sitter off a single moon warrior pad, if you’re shorter it basically adds a move into the left hand crimp which most people start on

https://youtube.com/shorts/mFgiUZ0ehp4?si=6iUvKzKUWFJddjnN

[highrepute]

Here’s the sitter off a single moon warrior pad, if you’re shorter it basically adds a move into the left hand crimp which most people start on

https://youtube.com/shorts/mFgiUZ0ehp4?si=6iUvKzKUWFJddjnN

Lookin good on that

Definitely. I demand a video of him doing the Alliance if he's 5 '5, that would be awesome. The Thick End of the Wedge vid is good too, presumably the slip is on home cooking?

Yeah he's well into Home Cooking when he almost bins it. Equal parts hilarious and impressive! Just seems to completely forget how to use his feet having done all the hard climbing 

https://youtu.be/1d00n6-6Et0?si=97hxRvBskROkrPzb

175cm - which is just shy of 5'9", with a 5'7" ape.

That makes me feel better about mossatroscity.

[Fiend]

5'8", 5'9" Ape Index, no dabs, and no qualms about posting a video online as as far as I know I've just done the fucking boulder problems. And if I haven't, whatever, I'll edit the video description or take a lower grade #noshitsgiven

[Wellsy]

Primo vid as always amigo

[Coops_13]

Third of the year (and grade) - psyched for what 2024 will bring

[Fiend]

Final, and worst, part. Nothing special but some cool climbs and some effort by a weak shitebag for literally half the V points of Coops Also maybe some useful warm-ups for anyone visiting in March who wants to rampage through the 7s...

Also pretty sure I didn't dab but feel free to try to call it out anyway...

[Duma]

Nice Matt, still plenty of quality in there. Anglophobie is ace, didn't it used to get 7A? I remember that span on Rouge-Gorge Assis too!

[Duma]

Edit, just watched your previous (also great) vid. I must have been thinking of the sit.

[Fiend]

Nice Matt, still plenty of quality in there. Anglophobie is ace, didn't it used to get 7A? I remember that span on Rouge-Gorge Assis too!

Thanks Duma! Yeah there's a bit of an overlap with the 7A video (Anglophobie assis and Corne De Bizon / Bisonneau) but I figured the semi-duplicates were tolerable (and quite different experiences for me). Yeah Rouge Gorge Assis was....hardly a king line, but I really enjoyed working it out and trying hard on it - fun foot sequences. Note my wee "6C Punter" fan....definitely not allowed a Makita....

[Fraser]

Little video of Physical Graffiti at Dumbarton, matched with some nice music I found online.

[Coops_13]

First 10 of the year 

[stone]

As a general BigUp to everyone who publicly posts bouldering videos:- Jakob Schubert said watching videos was a key part of his process in sending Alphane . 01:17:20 in https://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubert

So no, posting bouldering videos isn't just about showing off. It is providing a valuable resource for the community. Thanks to everyone who contributes to that.

[Duma]

What a crock of shit. Are you seriously suggesting any of the videos of Alphane were posted for any reason other than showing off (or variants of, eg sponsorship requirements)? Get a grip.

[Kingy]

posting bouldering videos is mostly about showing off.

I've fixed that for you, you're welcome! 

[JamieG]

What a crock of shit. Are you seriously suggesting any of the videos of Alphane were posted for any reason other than showing off (or variants of, eg sponsorship requirements)? Get a grip.

Bit full on Duma. You can post videos because you think people will enjoying watching them (which we do) without it all being showing off. Not really that different than football highlights is it?

[Bradders]

What a crock of shit. Are you seriously suggesting any of the videos of Alphane were posted for any reason other than showing off (or variants of, eg sponsorship requirements)? Get a grip.

Bit harsh and uncalled for.

That said, videos are all well and good, but I've had several recent experiences where I've been trying things with either simply no videos, or where the only ones out there feature a climber with such different morphology their beta is totally worthless to me. It's taken longer to figure things out, but doing so has been a properly joyful experience each time. Just yesterday I was trying something with only a couple of videos of very tall people available and finally landed on a sequence, after 2 full sessions of puzzling, with not a single move being the same as the videos. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face!

The other thing is that finding beta which works for you optimally is a real skill, which you can only really acquire through practice. In the short term it's obviously quicker to find a video and then do that beta even if it's not perfect, but in the long run I think you'll be a better climber if you learn to figure things out for yourself.

[peterbeal]

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C3nNdA4tHle/

The never-ending debate in one IG post: fans, music, future of Font, etc

[SA Chris]

In the short term it's obviously quicker to find a video and then do that beta even if it's not perfect, but in the long run I think you'll be a better climber if you learn to figure things out for yourself.

But if I just become a better climber can I still give that a green tick on IGs?

[stone]

For myself, I like to try something and then if I can't do it, watch videos, then try it again. It's just like watching other climbers in real life. The last three problems I've done (Bad Habits, Alpha and Mermaid) all used quite different beta from what was in the videos but I think I learnt from watching nonetheless. As much as anything, I learnt how I'm probably climbing around weaknesses that I could rectify a bit by working on them.

The trickiest problem I've ever managed (Ben's roof many years ago) was done by slavishly following Leah Crane's video. It totally was the opposite from what I was being told and shown by people at the crag. They said to tighten up the core and step feet along at all times. Leah flops and swings gibbon style.

I was struck by, and thought it notable, that Jakob Schubert, one of the best climbers in the world, chose to say at two points in that interview how much video watching contributed to him.

I couldn't say I really know any top climbers, but at the crag, people like Steve McClure, Ben Moon and Will Bosi appear to be motivated by a love of climbing. Perhaps they don't post videos with the intention of helping/inspiring other people's climbing -I haven't a clue. But it does, and I'm thankful for that and even more so for those posting videos of easy problems/routes I might climb.

[Fiend]

So no, posting bouldering videos isn't just about showing off. It is providing a valuable resource for the community. Thanks to everyone who contributes to that.

All the more reason to post half-decent ones in terms of angles and edits and lack of bullshit, and to NOT FUCKING DAB