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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1712204 times)

spidermonkey09

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#6925 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 03:50:14 pm
I've never been but can't say I'm overly tempted, it sounds a mess. Maybe it needs a nuclear option of permits? Or would that just push climbers onto Brione or similar?

Footwork

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#6926 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 04:36:18 pm
I've also never been but would like to in the future. The combination of soft for the grade, great scenery and forgiving rock makes it an ideal holiday destination.

My thoughts:

1. If people want to raise the issue of how knackered everything is then post videos of the hordes of punters, tick marks, stashed pads, trashed trails and make it look like the epicentre that is the Everest circus with an Attenborough voice over combo. Don't post a video about problems I've seen countless times making the place look wonderful.

2. Go for the Hueco pass system (without needing the guide)/ max day pass. If you're serious about preservation this will push people to the other areas of Swiss. With the massive rise of instagram/ youtube lead climbing it was inevitable Magic Wood would get trashed.

3. Less nuclear than 2 - set up some kind of project/ shack that's free to stay at, but those staying have to do preservation work/ crag cleaning. Though this will probably be knackering for your days off climbing! Like laying the path at Almscliff. I don't have a van so this would appeal to me and you'd be giving back to climbing.

 

spidermonkey09

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#6927 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 05:46:58 pm
I did think that Dan's video was making it look remarkably good still, should have included more shots of punters, toilet paper, erosion and litter Dan!  :lol:

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#6928 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 07:24:52 pm
Indeed, looks beautiful to me!

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#6929 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 07:56:01 pm
I've also never been but would like to in the future. The combination of soft for the grade, great scenery and forgiving rock makes it an ideal holiday destination.

My thoughts:

1. If people want to raise the issue of how knackered everything is then post videos of the hordes of punters, tick marks, stashed pads, trashed trails and make it look like the epicentre that is the Everest circus with an Attenborough voice over combo. Don't post a video about problems I've seen countless times making the place look wonderful.

2. Go for the Hueco pass system (without needing the guide)/ max day pass. If you're serious about preservation this will push people to the other areas of Swiss. With the massive rise of instagram/ youtube lead climbing it was inevitable Magic Wood would get trashed.

3. Less nuclear than 2 - set up some kind of project/ shack that's free to stay at, but those staying have to do preservation work/ crag cleaning. Though this will probably be knackering for your days off climbing! Like laying the path at Almscliff. I don't have a van so this would appeal to me and you'd be giving back to climbing.

4. Bring out a new guide which harshly downgrades all the classics. Conservation should be a doddle then.

Will Hunt

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#6930 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 08:07:49 pm
If the cool people didn't want their nice crag getting clogged up with uncool people they shouldn't have made all those cool videos of cool people climbing there.

And they should have called it Lorry Park Woods or Sheep Dip Boulders or The Razorstones.

The obvious solution is for the cool people to make some cool videos of people climbing at currently uncool crags. That will have a much bigger effect than a guidebook because nobody actually uses guidebooks any more.

teestub

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#6931 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 08:49:29 pm
Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.

abarro81

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#6932 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 08:58:46 pm
Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.

This is true, but also not true. Some places are definitely in/out of vogue in a way not quite reflective of their quality...

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#6933 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 10:04:03 pm
Glad it sparked a bit of conversation. I am not pretending I have the answers, I certainly donít but I thought stimulating a bit of a debate might provide some solutions.

Would be really interesting to know how other sectors where honeypot sites are an issue have dealt with it. I guess we are experiencing this a lot in the UK with our limited access to green spaces.

On the point about videos promoting areas, fair point and I agree. I guess I feel a some level of responsibility (which I kind of elude to in my foreword of Grit Blocs) and feel like I would like to contribute positively in some way.

jwi

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#6934 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 10:40:11 pm
Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.

This is true, but also not true. Some places are definitely in/out of vogue in a way not quite reflective of their quality...

Agree. There are some absolutely amazing crags that are not popular at all. Some of my favourite crags in the world with amazing quality routes, having climbed in enough places that I think I can make judgements on quality, are almost completely deserted.

teestub

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#6935 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
November 30, 2022, 11:13:07 pm
Sorry I was only thinking of bouldering and particularly in the UK. With the embarrassment of riches of euro lime, Iím sure itís easily possible for amazing crags to drop off the collective radar to the advantage of those who like a bit of peace and quiet!

spidermonkey09

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#6936 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 08:47:42 am
I think with bouldering its probably more accurate to say that there are some absolutely amazing *problems*, even in the UK, which are not popular at all. But there might only be one good problem at the crag and the rest of it (if any) is rubbish. Picking an example off the top of my head with no actual evidence, the 7A highball on the front of the Lakes bouldering guide looks amazing, but I don't think it gets done much and from memory there isn't a lot else there?

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#6937 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 09:01:41 am
I'm sorry to beat the same old pedantic drum, but when you say the UK, I guess you really mean the Northern Counties and North Wales*?

Apart from Dumby which has a healthy scene, all bouldering venues are effectively deserted most of the time in Scotland.

*I'm happy to admit I've not got a good handle on where's busy and where's not. South Coast maybe?

teestub

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#6938 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 09:13:34 am
I'm sorry to beat the same old pedantic drum, but when you say the UK, I guess you really mean the Northern Counties and North Wales*?

Apart from Dumby which has a healthy scene, all bouldering venues are effectively deserted most of the time in Scotland.


Likewise Iím sure there are tonnes of amazing bouldering venues in Alaska that are deserted!

As much as Iíd love to be able to pop to Torridon for a quick session after work the 18 hour round trip precludes it somewhat 😄

I think most people with more than a passing interest in bouldering know about the quality of the bouldering in the more far flung bits of the UK, and I would say the SW England and Highlands and Islands bouldering venues rate among the Ďcoolestí we have, but unfortunately (or fortunately if youíre a local) they are not accessible on a regular basis to the majority of the population.

spidermonkey09

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#6939 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 09:13:56 am
I'm sorry to beat the same old pedantic drum, but when you say the UK, I guess you really mean the Northern Counties and North Wales*?

Apart from Dumby which has a healthy scene, all bouldering venues are effectively deserted most of the time in Scotland.

*I'm happy to admit I've not got a good handle on where's busy and where's not. South Coast maybe?

Yes; my bad! But what Stubbs said.

SA Chris

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#6940 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 09:17:46 am
On a busy weekend I've heard Torridon can draw up to a dozen people, some of who might actually not know each other :)

I'd also go so far as to say peace and quiet combined with quality in the Northern Counties is quite easily achieved by a walk of about 20-30 minutes or more.

Duma

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#6941 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 10:04:14 am
It's all about the walk in. Ceuse aside, name a busy venue with a approach time over about half an hour.

SA Chris

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#6942 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 10:09:30 am
Mt Blanc :)

abarro81

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#6943 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 10:13:53 am
Various sectors @ Rocklands
Monstant (not busy by Ceuse in August or Espadelles at Christmas standards, but then is anywhere?!)
Acephale (only moderately busy, but mostly locals tbf)

Anyway, I'm increasingly convinced that honeypotting isn't so bad since at least it means there are plenty of good places to go that aren't a shit show. Everyone should keep going to Margalef, Siurana and Magic and leave everywhere else alone (the locals I've chatted to at other venues also seem quite keen on this, unsurprisingly!)

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#6944 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 11:36:40 am
I think most people with more than a passing interest in bouldering know about the quality of the bouldering in the more far flung bits of the UK, and I would say the SW England and Highlands and Islands bouldering venues rate among the Ďcoolestí we have, but unfortunately (or fortunately if youíre a local) they are not accessible on a regular basis to the majority of the population.

Doesn't really fit with your earlier statement though  :-\ ;D

Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.

teestub

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#6945 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 11:48:01 am
I donít see any conflict between those two posts!

Thereís a difference between the busyness of crags, which can vary for a number of reasons from them being shit to them being remote, and the coolness of crags, which is entirely independent of their busyness.

SA Chris

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#6946 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 12:45:58 pm
Depends on what is meant by cool; cool as in "wow that is so cool" or cool, as in trendy or fashionable.

Will Hunt

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#6947 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 12:52:32 pm
Uncool crags are uncool because they are shit though.

Uncool and shit are two parts of a Venn diagram. They overlap, but not entirely.

Some venues will always be popular because they are good and accessible. What drives trends to other places is partly which cool people have made videos about a place lately. See Sutty and Great Wolfrey/Ash Head.

teestub

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#6948 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 01:22:26 pm
Vids of slightly more esoteric venues deffo pique the interests of a few, but Iíd argue that this does little to reduce pressure on the honeypots as the effect is temporary and a for a minority of the climbing population.

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#6949 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
December 01, 2022, 02:26:32 pm
Various sectors @ Rocklands
Monstant
At Rockland's maybe sassies (only just over 30 min) and roadside (funny name)
Walked up to montsant today, took just under half an hour.

 

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