[User deactivated.]

Good vids Fiend and it looks like you're going pretty well cruising those 7A's. I can't imagine the 7A+/7B problems you speak of are beyond you with a bit of persistence!

I too visited North Wales last week and the 6B up the Mallory boulder was glorious!  #nongoalbasedclimbing

Thanks Liam. Yetix was also waffling on to me about "blah blah you could do 7B blah Fiend" (as if I haven't been trying really hard and solidly plateauing at 7A - and the occasional very lucky once-a-year 7A+ - for 2 decades now....). He hushed up a bit when I told him "why do I need to fail on 7Bs when I can just as easily fail on 7As I can't touch - like Northern Soul that I spent 15+ goes unable to do even the first move, right in the middle of the day when I was the best warmed up / not-fatigued, or Emyr's Arete in similar conditions which had two moves I couldn't get near even in isolation, but could imagine possibly doing with a multi-month siege and specific training" 

Pretty sure the stuff I managed quickly in the video was ultra-soft / cheating conditions, but still great fun climbing on an amazing hillside.

Did you post here about going up to Mallory or was that Bradders?? (I get confused with tall strong people from Leeds area, apart from Will who stands out in his own very particular way), either way it sounded like a great trip.

Have you not found a 7B ish problem that inspires enough to be worth a few sessions? Not for the sake of the grade, but in my experience, climbing harder problems than what i've done previously has often brought more interesting/subtle/complex movement with it. I wouldn't worry about not being able to tick every problem at a grade before considering yourself able to climb things above that level; I'm sure there's a a slab out there somewhere waiting to shut me down that's a number grade below my max.

It wasn't me who wrote about the Mallory boulder but it's a great bit of rock in a lovely spot and the walk in isn't even that bad. I've got a board replica now for the problem 'Will' so i'll be back after my next goal climbing mesocycle 

[Luke Owens]

Tedious low-mid-grade polished honeypot bollox but I had fun so 


Slightly less tedious low-mid-grade rarely visited hidden gems....Cwm Dulyn. Fresh and new in the North Wales Bouldering 2021 guide, notorious for a very photogenic Pete Robins multi-pitch 7B+! problem, and thus slightly slim pickings without a spotter, but nevertheless a couple of great problems and a wonderful setting made it well worth a visit. For you 7A+/B wads, go with a spotter and there will be loads of good choice.

Nice one Fiend, good vids!

Been meaning to head up to Cwm Dulyn for awhile, looks great.

or Emyr's Arete in similar conditions which had two moves I couldn't get near even in isolation, but could imagine possibly doing with a multi-month siege and specific training" 

Most people dyno on this, I cant jump but figured it out with a nice drop knee if this helps:

[duncan]

Tedious low-mid-grade polished honeypot bollox but I had fun so 

T - Rest day exploring the south side of The Pass, walking about 10km. Bone dry.

A great few days in a very dry N Wales. Bouldering conditions would have been perfect and I hope some people were able to take advantage of them.

Great to see you out and about again and making good use of the conditions.

You can just about see me wandering around in the background 

[Fiend]

but in my experience, climbing harder problems than what i've done previously has often brought more interesting/subtle/complex movement with it.

I agree, that's why I'm always pushing myself when my body allows (and, it seems, a bit too often when it doesn't). I don't tend to go for many multi-session / multi-year sieges though, as I get bored, and at the moment there's far too much choice of things that have all those benefits but are a bit more likely to be doable.

I wouldn't worry about not being able to tick every problem at a grade before considering yourself able to climb things above that level

I don't worry - I try many things above that level, it's just the happen to have the same grade as that level 

Luke - the idea of me being able to lock off that razor crimp that deep Even from the better duo pocket above, the next holds seemed to be in a different postcode (and the other move was bumping from the razor to the duo). I do need to work on the interesting, subtle and complex movement of drop knees a bit more though  . Dulyn you kinda need a spotter more than you need lots of pads - good landings but a big drop off behind them. You also need some VS 4b scrambling top-out skillz but the setting alone is worth it. P.S. Nice crisp quality on your vid, always useful.

Duncan  also what's the timestamp for your cameo?!

[Bradders]

Did you post here about going up to Mallory or was that Bradders?? (I get confused with tall strong people from Leeds area, apart from Will who stands out in his own very particular way), either way it sounded like a great trip.

Might have been me

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,31780.msg656281.html#msg656281

Although we never made it anywhere near the actual Mallory boulder. Too much like hard work getting up there!

[yetix]

Good vids Fiend and it looks like you're going pretty well cruising those 7A's. I can't imagine the 7A+/7B problems you speak of are beyond you with a bit of persistence!

I too visited North Wales last week and the 6B up the Mallory boulder was glorious!  #nongoalbasedclimbing

Thanks Liam. Yetix was also waffling on to me about "blah blah you could do 7B blah Fiend" (as if I haven't been trying really hard and solidly plateauing at 7A - and the occasional very lucky once-a-year 7A+ - for 2 decades now....). He hushed up a bit when I told him "why do I need to fail on 7Bs when I can just as easily fail on 7As I can't touch - like Northern Soul that I spent 15+ goes unable to do even the first move, right in the middle of the day when I was the best warmed up / not-fatigued, or Emyr's Arete in similar conditions which had two moves I couldn't get near even in isolation, but could imagine possibly doing with a multi-month siege and specific training" 

Pretty sure the stuff I managed quickly in the video was ultra-soft / cheating conditions, but still great fun climbing on an amazing hillside.

Did you post here about going up to Mallory or was that Bradders?? (I get confused with tall strong people from Leeds area, apart from Will who stands out in his own very particular way), either way it sounded like a great trip.

Matt I never hush up, everyone who knows me knows I can chat shit indefinitely. I sent you more 7Bs on Facebook the next day!

Northern soul is also quite hard, too much time on the 30 and not enough time on feet follow hands maybe

I did say if you're not psyched for 7Bs then that's fine, just that I think you could probably do a few with less fuss than you believe.

[User deactivated.]

I second Yetix chatting shit indefinitely, but I love it. Our recent conversations could fill a bible sized book on the intricacies of Welsh handholds.

[Fiend]

Yetix you did say "touche" in our chat, I'll take that as temporary minor hushing  There might be some 7Bs that could inspire me who knows, but I can equally well  against 7As or A+s. Or even better, 7A/+s

The intricacies of Welsh handholds are definitely inspiring tho....

[bolehillbilly]

Great stuff as per usual Fiend. Keep 'em coming.

[hansmaro]

Am not a big fan of the "uncut footage or it didn't happen"-mentality that has become the norm in recent years, but i found this video quite fascinating. Curious to hear what people think. Are the moves poorly staged? Feet touching the ground? Certainly could look like it?

[SA Chris]

It's been discussed at length in the "bring out your dabs" thread

[hansmaro]

Thanks, I will have a read. Apologies for the doublepost

[Carliios]

Started a channel called Stoned the other day and we filmed Sam on Bewilderness 8B+/V14 - annoyingly the footage froze for like half a second on the very last move, the dangers of filming with minidv tapes 

Thought it may be a bit too grimey to go in the quality bouldering videos thread haha- but really enjoyed trying to recreate that 90s skater punk look that I grew up with!

[Duma]

Really liked that, nice to see something different

[highrepute]

Enjoyed the play on the problem name in this video. Best bit starts around 4 mins in.

[36chambers]

Jack Pal delivering the goods as usual

[CapitalistPunter]

Great video Carlos put together from a recent trip to Almscliffe.

[Fiend]

Some of the worst elbow rehab I've done for a while   

[fatneck]

Nice one Matt. The rock there is sooooo good!

[Fiend]

Cheers. Completely failed on the mackerel front tho 

[jwi]

This is probably the best time to announce that when I did this thing some twenty years ago I found this problem ludicrously soft.

[Fultonius]

That's awesome! 6

I'll jump on the armchair grading bandwagon and call the fact it can't be harder than 6A just looking at it.

[Carliios]

New one from Stoned at Anston. Featuring a totally pointless and possible pulley destroying mono one armer from Isaac who wonders why he’s perpetually injured 

[Fiend]

New one from Fiend in the Lakes. Not featuring any of the usual honeypot bollox nor anything remotely hard nor insta-worthy 

[Fiend]

Sticking this in non-quality because although the climbs are new, the details will be published eventually in South Snowdonia Bouldering. Nothing remotely non-quality about the problems, the rock, nor the setting though: