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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1921779 times)

monkey boy

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#6650 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 09, 2021, 08:32:03 pm
Love Will's flashing red light!

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#6651 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 09, 2021, 08:35:15 pm
Love Will's flashing red light!
That's all I could focus on too!
I was half expecting a small model plane to come landing on the pads...

monkey boy

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#6652 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 10, 2021, 07:38:12 am
Love Will's flashing red light!
That's all I could focus on too!
I was half expecting a small model plane to come landing on the pads...

Or a helicopter on a appropriate smear

jwi

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#6653 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 11, 2021, 08:10:24 pm
Quality climbing



but...

ce n'est pas parce que vous criez « allez » sans cesse qu'il grimpe bien.

Fiend

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#6654 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 11, 2021, 08:53:11 pm
Needs more allezes - I bet the dog wanted to do some as well but didn't know how to do allez in woof.

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#6655 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 12, 2021, 09:13:57 am
Apologies* to all Yorkshire regulars for whom this will be all terribly mundane and passe, but here you go, some Baildon fun, including a highball that doesn't have many UKC ticks, one of NaoB's fav problems from 2020, and celebrity spotting from Perc and Jarvis Cocker ;)



Who Are We Without Moon / The Baildon Stem / The Mantel / Suggy's Wall / The Oik




* - not really

Will Hunt

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#6656 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 12, 2021, 09:29:03 am
Apologies* to all Yorkshire regulars for whom this will be all terribly mundane and passe, but here you go, some Baildon fun, including a highball that doesn't have many UKC ticks, one of NaoB's fav problems from 2020, and celebrity spotting from Perc and Jarvis Cocker ;)



Who Are We Without Moon / The Baildon Stem / The Mantel / Suggy's Wall / The Oik




* - not really

Very enjoyable. My only complaint is the butchering of Who Are We by using the static sequence. A great waste of a lovely dynamic move. Nice to see Suggy's Wall get some love though.
I also thought The Mantle was soft but was told by Adi recently that it was done without the footholds to the left. I don't think anybody does it the eliminate way any more though.

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#6657 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 12, 2021, 10:06:49 am
Yes the static sequence on Who Are We is deeply wonderful and satisfying and definitely the discerning choice rather than some god-awful lurchy slap.

I intitially presumed that The Mantle did a full on hanging grovel onto the block alone but as soon as I tried it that seemed pointless even by BGFBB standards and the natural way is really fun.

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#6658 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2021, 07:50:02 pm
Now this is - hopefully - a bit more fruity than last week's video. It's a bit more underground and has quite a theme (bonus points if you can spot it). Featuring a brilliant new Mark20 problem, a cool new Highrepute problem, a merciless downgrade of a Dolph problem since somehow LiamHutch89 neglected to do this, and some other stuff!





Geisterspiel / Rivelin It Large / Sambucus / Lessons In Depth / Gazelle / Pepper Mill / Kappix

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#6659 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2021, 08:52:58 pm
Some good problems there Fiend. You’re climbing well at the moment - and having noticed a few downgrades in your films do you think it may well be - err - because you’re climbing well?

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#6660 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2021, 09:47:21 pm
Nope. Climbing similar to normal albeit a bit weaker on steep burly stuff. Just finding newer, esoteric stuff where the grade hasn't settled, and trying to correct that. Recently...

Sunset Crack - very near flash in still conditions. Mark20 confirmed it's not really 7A.
Yorkshire Farmer - no surprise that ashtond6's brain is so rotted by trying to support headpointing that he can't grade for toffee. Mike Morrel confirmed it's more like 6C.
Dreamboat Direct - rman graded it 7A, Bonjoy dropped it to 6C including his direct finish. So I'm essentially upgrading the latter. Hacker confirmed "piss for 7A" .
The Mantle - adi gill confirmed the original method was different and harder. I think it's 6C on UKC?
OikSS - tis just easy.
Rivelin It Large - brand new and well below highrepute's usual standard.
Sambucus - upgraded (just a tiny bit harder than Gazelle).
Lessons In Depth - different beta to Dolph (and Liam) on almost every move. No surprise that 6ft (?) 8C climber tell the difference between 7A and 7B. If I put up a 5 then it might well be between 4 and 6A!
Gazelle - again just easy.

P.S. not downstarring *any* of these. Glad you found them looking like good problems, that's what I'm inspired to show  :yes:

Will Hunt

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#6661 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2021, 11:23:06 am
Good work doing the right thing and helping correct the grades on new/seldom climbed problems, Fiend. And what fine problems they look too.

tommytwotone

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#6662 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2021, 02:28:22 pm
Apologies* to all Yorkshire regulars for whom this will be all terribly mundane and passe, but here you go, some Baildon fun, including a highball that doesn't have many UKC ticks, one of NaoB's fav problems from 2020, and celebrity spotting from Perc and Jarvis Cocker ;)



Who Are We Without Moon / The Baildon Stem / The Mantel / Suggy's Wall / The Oik




* - not really

Nice one Fiend - I've got a pass on Saturday and quite keen to take a look at those after that. Kind of done Shipley to death recently and never visited Baildon yet so good a time as any.

Liamhutch89

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#6663 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2021, 04:57:49 pm
I love a downgrade as much as the next man, but Lesson in depth felt 7B to me! Certainly not 7A.The start is quite bunched so maybe that didn't help me at 6'2 and the even taller FA? But I think you're just climbing well to be honest! Really good problem nonetheless.

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#6664 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2021, 07:17:32 pm
You do look like you’re going well Fiend! I was also thinking of Eh up el Diablo at Cown that you gave 6B to - and whilst it’s certainly not 7A+ it felt 6C+/7A to me... having done it I was amazed at how well you were moving/leaping between the holds.

Anyway - good to see you have support of your wing(span) man Will ;)

Wellsy

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#6665 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2021, 08:27:59 pm
Fucking strong effort look like some great lines too!

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#6666 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2021, 09:09:22 pm
I love a downgrade as much as the next man, but Lesson in depth felt 7B to me! Certainly not 7A.The start is quite bunched so maybe that didn't help me at 6'2 and the even taller FA? But I think you're just climbing well to be honest! Really good problem nonetheless.

Anecdotally, there seem to be a fair few people having good years.  The fruits of Covid19 enforced training? I've done a lot of problems from my own wishlist recently, despite feeling generally tired and ramshackle; the only reason that comes to mind is that WFH allowed more fingerboard and woodie sessions than usual over winter.  Maybe what Thatcher and dance-drugs did for 80s climbing, lockdown has done for this era?

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#6667 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2021, 10:21:59 pm
Cheers Will and Wellsy.

T³, that is music to my tinnitus-infused ears, glad that you're inspired, that makes it all worthwhile doing these vids. Also at Baildon the 6C version of Underhere is cool (Will made me do it), and there's a 6C left of The Mantle that is fun if the conditions are good. And I might have something more for you next week...

Liam - interesting stuff. I'm not taking the piss with LID (and put this vid together before watching yours, maybe LID feels harder if you're lapping it, and aren't you a ^7C^ climber anyway??). A bit of context: 7A is my usual max, 7A+ I can pull out of the bag a couple of times a year if they exactly suit me, 7B is effectively beyond me, I've done one in my life when I was at least a stone lighter and it took me 11 hours over 4 sessions in perfect winter connies. LID I nearly did in one very brief session but didn't know you could go for the much better ramp with the right hand (and I ran out of daylight), and I did it in a few goes next session, vest conditions so hardly as crisp as I usually need. I do a lot of 7A aretes and this is just another one (easier than Who Are We, for example).

However, I do take your point about morphology entirely. For me the crux was getting the right heel to stick to slap up to the good ramp. Maybe stiff 6C+ pulling into that from standing but deffo 7A adding in the start moves. If those start moves - slapping into the undercling and sorting feet - are so horribly cramped for the 6 footer that that's now the crux and adds a couple of grades, then fair enough, it can also add an extra star for being joyously easier for the short  :2thumbsup: Maybe we need to get a 5'8"-10" 7A/+ climber on it to confirm.

Anyway I'm sure there's no debate about the quality, even with the mud-slope nearby it climbs really well with great features  :yes:

T² - you haven't seen me on Nyan Cat, or Mr Monster, or Catfoot, or that 6B+ in the trench at Curbar that might as well be 7B+ if you can't reach the holds. Funnily enough the things I can't do rarely get on my videos. Eh Up Diablo is just yarding between buckets, it wouldn't get 6C even in Lancashire, but maybe it's harder for the longer gentleman to keep their limbs within the eliminate rules?? I now realise this is "the weird quarry near Glossop" you were telling me about a year ago. Incidentally the 7A+ right of EUD looks very cool and infinitely harder than, say, LID, even for the gaston fan.

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#6668 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2021, 11:16:24 pm
Cheers Will and Wellsy.

T³, that is music to my tinnitus-infused ears, glad that you're inspired, that makes it all worthwhile doing these vids. Also at Baildon the 6C version of Underhere is cool (Will made me do it), and there's a 6C left of The Mantle that is fun if the conditions are good. And I might have something more for you next week...

Liam - interesting stuff. I'm not taking the piss with LID (and put this vid together before watching yours, maybe LID feels harder if you're lapping it, and aren't you a ^7C^ climber anyway??). A bit of context: 7A is my usual max, 7A+ I can pull out of the bag a couple of times a year if they exactly suit me, 7B is effectively beyond me, I've done one in my life when I was at least a stone lighter and it took me 11 hours over 4 sessions in perfect winter connies. LID I nearly did in one very brief session but didn't know you could go for the much better ramp with the right hand (and I ran out of daylight), and I did it in a few goes next session, vest conditions so hardly as crisp as I usually need. I do a lot of 7A aretes and this is just another one (easier than Who Are We, for example).

However, I do take your point about morphology entirely. For me the crux was getting the right heel to stick to slap up to the good ramp. Maybe stiff 6C+ pulling into that from standing but deffo 7A adding in the start moves. If those start moves - slapping into the undercling and sorting feet - are so horribly cramped for the 6 footer that that's now the crux and adds a couple of grades, then fair enough, it can also add an extra star for being joyously easier for the short  :2thumbsup: Maybe we need to get a 5'8"-10" 7A/+ climber on it to confirm.

Anyway I'm sure there's no debate about the quality, even with the mud-slope nearby it climbs really well with great features  :yes:

T² - you haven't seen me on Nyan Cat, or Mr Monster, or Catfoot, or that 6B+ in the trench at Curbar that might as well be 7B+ if you can't reach the holds. Funnily enough the things I can't do rarely get on my videos. Eh Up Diablo is just yarding between buckets, it wouldn't get 6C even in Lancashire, but maybe it's harder for the longer gentleman to keep their limbs within the eliminate rules?? I now realise this is "the weird quarry near Glossop" you were telling me about a year ago. Incidentally the 7A+ right of EUD looks very cool and infinitely harder than, say, LID, even for the gaston fan.

As we all know, grades are just weird. My benchmark for vertical 7B is Ben's groove at Caley, which I first did around a year ago quite quickly (having had a hopeless session another year prior as a sub 7A climber). LID felt about the same difficulty as Ben's groove and took around 5 or 6 proper tries.

One thing I've noticed when climbing a problem at my limit is i'm more likely to figure out the absolute best sequence for me, and muscle memory helps significantly when returning on another day. If the problem is a few grades lower than my max and I have a bit of strength in reserve, I might just start cranking on whatever feels like it will work. Clearly this will make the harder stuff feel easier and the easier stuff feel harder.

In fact all the hardest stuff I've climbed actually felt quite easy on the successful go. Not too long ago I managed to float up Cuddles at Caley on my 2nd try of the day, then went to repeat horn rib which is 4 grades lower, vaguely similar in style, and took me more than 10 goes!

If you get back to woolley edge, the arete on Barrel House is good! I thought 6C+

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#6669 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2021, 06:39:37 am
I now realise this is "the weird quarry near Glossop" you were telling me about a year ago. Incidentally the 7A+ right of EUD looks very cool and infinitely harder than, say, LID, even for the gaston fan.

Painted Devil? Yes - spent a load of time on that and figured it was only possible using the ramp on the right for feet (which really spoils it and turns it into a bridging and undercut off little edges/sidepulls problem) - the only pic of someone on it (UKC) has someone doing just that. Its had no repeats (logbook wise) either - so suspect I'm not the only person to scratch their heads. Whilst looking at that, I did a line in between the two taking the big flake as a gaston thats got some good climbing in it, and felt fairly hard 7A+ to me... (ended up being called Lou Cypher - on my youtube stuff if you're interested...)

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#6670 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2021, 08:51:26 am
Cool, next winter I'll get on Ben's Groove and for that matter The Rib, First Arete, and Fight On Black and see how quickly they go in a brief session  :lol:

(Actually kinda spoilt that already by having two sessions on FOB including one in conditions so amazing I didn't realise I'd worn all my skin away during 20 - 30 attempts, as I was, unusually, barely sweating. FOB seems slightly similar to LID except you've got LH pebbles instead of a massive undercling, smears instead of good footholds, tiny RH slopers instead of a big ramp...).

TT - Painted Devil Direct (which tbh from my armchair didn't look like 7A+) is the king line project to go then...

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#6671 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2021, 10:35:50 am
Out of interest Fiend - you're not a giant are you?

If I recall correctly you're about the same height as me, 5 foot 7 (ish)?

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#6672 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2021, 10:55:34 am
I recon you've got secret springs in those compression stockings :D

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#6673 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2021, 11:54:47 am
Nope.

Wrong. You're clearly climbing well.

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#6674 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2021, 07:40:51 pm
Your beard is wrong!!! I'm climbing well for me, i.e. 7A in a session-ish in good conditions if it suits me. I haven't miraculously jumped 2 grades.

T3 - 5'8" / +1"AI. 80kg.
Power to weight and height to weight both terrible. Flexibility so-so. Technique okay. Gastons and rockovers good (heavy legs have a bit of oomph in them). Session tactics good. Conditions fussiness great. Hold cleaning skills exemplary.

 

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