The vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:
Cheers Tom! Was just going to post that... Looking forward to seeing Part 2!Also, can anyone confirm the Clandestino grade for what was done? I've seen various methods for this and various grades.... Seems most likely that the 7b version avoids slapping out left as was done on the vid?
Quote from: dave on May 06, 2016, 09:33:06 amThe vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left. The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jug
Quote from: rodma on May 15, 2016, 07:42:34 amQuote from: dave on May 06, 2016, 09:33:06 amThe vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left. The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jugI did it as per the video, which felt the most natural / 7Bish way.I also remember flashing the '7A' and thinking that it felt quite a lot easier than some other 7As that I've done in Font.
Quote from: the_dom on May 15, 2016, 11:27:31 amQuote from: rodma on May 15, 2016, 07:42:34 amQuote from: dave on May 06, 2016, 09:33:06 amThe vid deffo isn't the 7b version. This is the 7b version:That isn't the original either, since it topped out within the scoop rather than slapping back left. The original was a total sandbag though, since the end was harder than the end of El Paso due to topping out from the bad holds one move short of the jugI did it as per the video, which felt the most natural / 7Bish way.I also remember flashing the '7A' and thinking that it felt quite a lot easier than some other 7As that I've done in Font.Which video, the house one, or the other one? The other one is nails, the house one is nothing like 7bSent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Good send :DSent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
Quote from: monkey boy on April 23, 2016, 07:16:51 pmQuote from: Nike Air on April 23, 2016, 12:21:07 pmQuote from: monkey boy on April 23, 2016, 11:19:52 amOne from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.Nice one DaveHas anyone short tried this. I'm stumped by the move at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖 How short is short? Craig isn't tall but did it basically the same way.Lovely video guys. You dont have to defend your tallness, it's something to embrace David. Guess I mean is there another way other than having your right foot up. Googling it I came up with the news item on nwb. Maybe an alternative sequence therehttp://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=639I should head back fresh to be honest, only tried it after being on harder things in the Pass, plus it was seeping, add to that my fear of open water and hill walkers and I was definitely handicapped.....
Quote from: Nike Air on April 23, 2016, 12:21:07 pmQuote from: monkey boy on April 23, 2016, 11:19:52 amOne from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.Nice one DaveHas anyone short tried this. I'm stumped by the move at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖 How short is short? Craig isn't tall but did it basically the same way.
Quote from: monkey boy on April 23, 2016, 11:19:52 amOne from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.Nice one DaveHas anyone short tried this. I'm stumped by the move at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.
A couple of problems on Portland Bill including possible first ascent of maybe 7A? In guidebook says unclimbed and doesn't seem to have been written up anywhere. Worth a write up even if turns out someone else did it years ago, it's pretty good!