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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 2138533 times)

Beastly Squirrel

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#4925 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2016, 09:02:29 pm
Love that video Jack!

JackAus

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#4926 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2016, 09:09:41 pm
Where's the victory jump?

Back around.......  ;)
I first jumped off there when I was 12... The point was to stay dry. :D

Nibile

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#4927 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 21, 2016, 11:01:47 pm
 :dance1:
Excellent!

Will Hunt

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#4928 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2016, 04:04:54 pm
Nice one Jack. Looks like a great journey and one that you must be glad is over! I admire you for going ground up.

I'm interested in the logistics. How many attempts do you get in a session? Is the limiting factor a physical one (you get too tired for more attempts) or do you just run out of dry rockshoes? Is this close to where you live? And is that close in a way that I would consider close (my local crag is a 7 minute drive from the house. There is one a 2 minute drive away but its crap)?
Did you ever struggle to get people to go out with you? Is there much else at the crag to keep them busy while you're on a project? Did you have any trips there on your own? Did anybody else try your project and how did this make you feel? How would you have felt if they'd done it?

And finally, did you ever try using a foothold closer in towards you? I don't even know if there's a foothold there but the whole time I was watching you fail my brain was screaming, "bring your toe in closer to you and you'll piss it"! On that note, did it take you long to find the right sequence or is it fairly obvious? If number of goes in a session are limited it can be really hard to force yourself to try something else.

Sorry for the barrage of questions.

SA Chris

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#4929 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2016, 04:22:28 pm
I'm also intrigued by the "seasons" Hot season / Cold Season / Wet season / dry season?


tomtom

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#4930 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 22, 2016, 07:57:00 pm
I'm also intrigued by the "seasons" Hot season / Cold Season / Wet season / dry season?

You mean the season when its hot, the season when its cold, the season when its wet and the season when its dry?

Got me stumped - I mean theres nothing in the name to give you a clue is there... ;)

JackAus

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#4931 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 03:59:13 am
I'm also intrigued by the "seasons" Hot season / Cold Season / Wet season / dry season?



Summer. Water is waaaaaay too cold in winter. Would be Sept though April really.
Weird to say "years" as summer runs over 2 here..

Nice one Jack. Looks like a great journey and one that you must be glad is over! I admire you for going ground up.

I'm interested in the logistics. How many attempts do you get in a session? Is the limiting factor a physical one (you get too tired for more attempts) or do you just run out of dry rockshoes? Is this close to where you live? And is that close in a way that I would consider close (my local crag is a 7 minute drive from the house. There is one a 2 minute drive away but its crap)?
Did you ever struggle to get people to go out with you? Is there much else at the crag to keep them busy while you're on a project? Did you have any trips there on your own? Did anybody else try your project and how did this make you feel? How would you have felt if they'd done it?

And finally, did you ever try using a foothold closer in towards you? I don't even know if there's a foothold there but the whole time I was watching you fail my brain was screaming, "bring your toe in closer to you and you'll piss it"! On that note, did it take you long to find the right sequence or is it fairly obvious? If number of goes in a session are limited it can be really hard to force yourself to try something else.

Sorry for the barrage of questions.

Questions! So many questions!

Usually up to 4 attempts. Shoes and skin are the limiting factors. Did only have 4 pairs for dws, now 5.
The wall stays in the shade until about noon, so early morning summer sessions were the way forward. Shoes don't like to dry out enough in the shade... More attempts were usually early days, working out moves, in arvos. More time for shoes to dry.
And skin, the intermediate crimp on the face is pretty small and the constant 'being wet' thing doesn't help. Obviously drying off properly and resting but skin would be a lot softer after an attempt or 2. Have to pull pretty hard on that crimp, it likes to take my index and middle tips away. That's all that fits on it.
Don't get that tired on it until the crux really. Probably because I've done the lower moves so many times.

I used to live 20-30min away. That's pretty close. Now I live 3hrs away.
I get on it sporadically because I visit my parents and then try it every morning while I'm there.

Haha 90% of it was by myself.
Winter is Nowra season here so hardly any climbers around in summer.
There is plenty there now, about 25 lines. Mainly smaller stuff on a 5-6m wall next door. This is far and away the hardest line so far.
Popular jumping spot and a couple of rope swings, beach on other side of the river. Gets pretty busy in summer school holidays with boats, skiers/wakeboarders.
www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/nowra/area/351405501

A few other people tried it. Generally they didn't really have a shot at doing it though. I didn't mind taking people there because they often took one look at it and said Nope! Too scary.
Had a mate try it with me first 2 seasons then he got busy with new family. He actually got the break a couple weeks before I did but then couldn't match it.
I'd heard a few people had tried the line over the years but no one getting close. It sort of became known that I was pretty close to it so everyone just let me get on with it.
Tbh I would've felt like shit if someone did it first really. Happy for them but shit for me.

Ha. That footer just doesn't work. It's too close in and makes you too bunched to take the intermediate. And then totally wrong spot for the bump. The wide foot is in a good spot, means you can really rock onto it and crank hard on the left hand.



I think day 1 I had made it out of the roof but hadn't worked out the crux at all. Looking back at videos, I'd worked out the crux sequence on 30/12/13 thanks to mate abbing in and finding the face crimp. Think this was maybe 10 sessions in. Took a few more to be at the point of attempting the move but still...

Did I miss any?

JackAus

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#4932 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 04:01:23 am
I think day 1 I had made it out of the roof but hadn't worked out the crux at all. Looking back at videos, I'd worked out the crux sequence on 30/12/13 thanks to mate abbing in and finding the face crimp. Think this was maybe 10 sessions in. Took a few more to be at the point of attempting the move but still...

Just had look through log. I'd got the crimp the next session and slapped about 6 inch short of the break.

Will Hunt

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#4933 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 09:02:24 am
A good insight that, thanks for sharing.

monkey boy

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#4934 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 11:19:52 am
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.


fried

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#4935 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 12:14:52 pm
Love the interest from the passersby.

Nike Air

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#4936 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 12:21:07 pm
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.

Nice one Dave
Has anyone short tried this. I'm stumped  by the move  at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖
« Last Edit: April 23, 2016, 12:30:10 pm by Nike Air »

a dense loner

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#4937 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 03:26:55 pm
Doylo did nice one dave last wk but he's tall and gangly

monkey boy

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#4938 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 07:16:51 pm
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.

Nice one Dave
Has anyone short tried this. I'm stumped  by the move  at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖

How short is short? Craig isn't tall but did it basically the same way.


a dense loner

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#4939 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 09:12:01 pm
How come you've changed the grade to 8a? The same with the tracks?

Fiend

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#4940 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 09:41:17 pm
I have one more question for Jack Aus, possibly the most important one everyone has forgotten: Since the route was at/near Nowra, why didn;t you call it a vulgar genitalogical name?? Pissflaps Prow or something??

ducko

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#4941 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 23, 2016, 11:31:03 pm
I'm 5,8ft tall for reference

monkey boy

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#4942 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 24, 2016, 06:57:58 am
How come you've changed the grade to 8a? The same with the tracks?

Robins originally gave Snapdragon 8A and I thought the same. Top end 8A but it didn't feel as hard as Caseg Groove sitter or Paper Birds to me. The Tracks felt the same difficulty as Stoned Temple Pilots to me which gets 8A. Swings and roundabouts I guess, I know a lot of people find Temple Pilots easier for the grade and Robins and Ducko both thought 7C+ but it felt tricky to me.

a dense loner

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#4943 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 24, 2016, 07:24:23 am
Why are you up at 7am on a Sunday? You've got no kids! Was your bed on fire?

monkey boy

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#4944 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 24, 2016, 07:45:54 am
Why are you up at 7am on a Sunday? You've got no kids! Was your bed on fire?

Yes it was! Finals in Japan and I am normally up about 6:30 anyway.

More to the point why are you on UKB at 7:30 in the morning when you do have kids  ;)

a dense loner

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#4945 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 24, 2016, 08:11:19 am
That means I've been up at least 2 hrs. Finals better be good I'll watch em this aft

monkey boy

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#4946 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 24, 2016, 08:53:32 am
You'll need double the time as they did male and female separately.

Nike Air

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#4947 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 24, 2016, 10:34:45 am
One from yesterday. The rock and moves on this are superb. I think it's one of the best things I have done in the UK.

Nice one Dave
Has anyone short tried this. I'm stumped  by the move  at 40 seconds? Cant keep right right foot on and get the base of the crack.....😖

How short is short? Craig isn't tall but did it basically the same way.



Lovely video guys.
You dont have to defend your tallness, it's something to embrace David.  Guess I mean is there another way other than having your right foot up. Googling it I came up with the news item on nwb. Maybe an alternative sequence there
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=639

I should head back fresh to be honest, only tried it after being on harder things in the Pass, plus it was seeping, add to that my fear of open water and hill walkers and I was definitely handicapped.....

a dense loner

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#4948 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 24, 2016, 11:10:26 am
You'll need double the time as they did male and female separately.
In that case I'll only need half the time

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#4949 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 24, 2016, 11:22:40 am
How come you've changed the grade to 8a? The same with the tracks?

It was given 8a originally. He's not alone with The Tracks downgrade, Dan V, Oli and Ned thought that too.

 

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