Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 2138532 times)

andy popp · April 18, 2016, 06:50:26 pm

That looks very good. Is there much more or is that basically it?

JamieG · April 18, 2016, 07:00:11 pm

Dave Carrington put together a little video of some stuff up a Wimberry. Including a couple that there isn't much info for (e.g. Flakes of Concern and the Fish Groove)

submaximal gains · April 18, 2016, 07:05:04 pm

Here's my own distinctly non-quality offering; first time editing a video together so feeedback would be welcome

It's highlights from the varsity bouldering competition between Hallam and University of Sheffield this year; unfortuantely Tara Hayes and Billy Ridal chose to compete in Switzerland otherwise they would have been in it.

r-man · April 18, 2016, 07:12:03 pm

Quote from: andy popp on April 18, 2016, 06:50:26 pm

That looks very good. Is there much more or is that basically it?

Not loads more. There are a few more problems on the boulders in the vid, but those are the lines that stood out/weren't too scary to try on my own with only two pads. There are also a fair few smaller undercut boulders with sitstarts and traverses which I didn't get round to trying. Enough for a fun session, but definitely a minor venue. A few of the problems were a bit scrittly, though the 7B was fine.

tomtom · April 18, 2016, 07:13:46 pm

Quote from: JamieG on April 18, 2016, 07:00:11 pm

Dave Carrington put together a little video of some stuff up a Wimberry. Including a couple that there isn't much info for (e.g. Flakes of Concern and the Fish Groove)

Good to see the flakes on video

Luke Owens · April 18, 2016, 11:01:18 pm

4 problems from Ogwen yesterday, including a real nice highball that never gets any attention despite being roadside!

JamieG · April 19, 2016, 09:49:31 am

Quote from: tomtom on April 18, 2016, 07:13:46 pm

Good to see the flakes on video

Funny problem flakes. It seems to be quite overlooked, despite having pretty nice climbing. Robbie (the climber in the video) thinks it is very stiff at 7a, much more like a 7a+ and maybe even a hard one at that. But maybe we're missing some beta (or a hold broken), since it's very hard to find any information on it.

I find the move to gain the high flake really awkward, with the sort inside out undercut. Robbie makes it look really easy in the video.

More people should have a crack at it since it's an overlooked problem on the wimberry circuit.

a dense loner · April 19, 2016, 11:21:36 am

A lot of holds broke on that over the years, and that's going back 10 years ago. I didn't use to do it much at all despite climbing there loads cos it felt terrifying pulling on the holds!

GCW · April 19, 2016, 11:27:59 am

Quote from: r-man on April 18, 2016, 04:34:54 pm

Finally got round to checking out this little collection of boulders not far from Wycoller. The big 7B arete is a forgotten classic, and the other lines are decent too.

That's the opposite side of the valley to some boulders I looked at years ago. They were on YG.com, with one good 7b dynamic wall. Around here somewhere (switch to Google Earth view) and can't remember the name. I think there may well be more to go at in that area.

andy_e · April 19, 2016, 11:31:31 am

https://web.archive.org/web/20131207152045/http://yorkshiregrit.com/greatwolfstones.html

r-man · April 19, 2016, 11:45:37 am

Just looked at the map. They're in Lancashire too. Also in the Yorkshire bouldering guide I think. Might have to do some more climbing round those parts.

GCW · April 19, 2016, 12:13:33 pm

Quote from: andy_e on April 19, 2016, 11:31:31 am

https://web.archive.org/web/20131207152045/http://yorkshiregrit.com/greatwolfstones.html

That's the one. Nice, but committing as the landing was a ledge. Didn't look at anything else.

Fiend · April 19, 2016, 01:36:11 pm

Good lob on that Ogwen arete, Luke

JamieG · April 19, 2016, 03:12:43 pm

Quote from: a dense loner on April 19, 2016, 11:21:36 am

A lot of holds broke on that over the years, and that's going back 10 years ago. I didn't use to do it much at all despite climbing there loads cos it felt terrifying pulling on the holds!

Makes sense, there a quite a few scars on that problem and you can see when Robbie's climbing the foot hold is pretty scrittly. I wouldn't be surprised if one of the flakes pulls off at some point. Which would be a shame as it climbs well (as far as i can get anyway). I think with a good spot your alright, but it certainly doesn't inspire much confidence.

gcarmichael · April 20, 2016, 09:09:05 pm

One from today. First time at Trowbarrow, session started off well with this but then got shutdown on Vitruvian Man. (I can stick first move fine with the right heel hook but then can't move body as I am at full span, any advice?)