[Nibile]

I thought Satan i Helvete shared the same start of Fata Morgana Bas.
What the hell does the name mean by the way?

[dave]

Something about Swiss I reckon, Helvete must mean swiss or swiss person? The devil is swiss, the Swiss devil, or some wordplay along those lines?

Edit - according to Google Translate "Satan i Helvete" is swedish for "Satan in Hell", so I'm guessing it's that combined with some form of wordplay or association as per the above.

[lagerstarfish]

Norge for Satan in Hell?

(faen i helvete)

[36chambers]

I thought Satan i Helvete shared the same start of Fata Morgana Bas.
What the hell does the name mean by the way?

There's a discussion on the origin of the name on bleau.info (https://bleau.info/longsvaux/2236.html) click on the English discussion at the bottom of the page. Too long to post it all here.

example:

It's swearing - fitte (19-04-2004 19:35)
"Satan i helvete" is good old norwegian swearing and is equivalent to the english "Fuckin hell" expression. Inspired by norwegian climber (that swears a lot) Morten F. I've heard...

[a dense loner]

No nibs satan was an 8b that started as for fata. Don't know which hold broke

[Andy W]

New 8c Satan i Helvete, from Alban Levier
http://planetgrimpe.com/2016/02/24/alban-levier-reouvre-satan-i-helvete-et-le-cote-desormais-8c/

Can't seem to embed it

anyone know what hold it was that broke? sequence looks the same as before, bar the move out left looking more controlled than other people doing it...

It's the flake that gets used for the left foot in the rockover move after you get the pocket on Fata Morgana. I don't think it makes much difference for Fata Morgana but isn't much use for Satan Helvete, its a kind of flat edge now, not as positive. I only know this because I was there when Jan Holjer pulled it off! I'm still stuck on the first move of Fata Morgana! I'll worry about the new hold if I ever get that far!

[Doylo]

Just read the Satan UKC a article. Is a Frenchmen really grading problems in Font in V grades?!

[Duma]

Think when he put it on FB he wrote it in both English and French - in the original French report he used Font grades, the English he changed for the Yanks I guess

[Fiend]

Warning: Contains 19 minutes of straight-up footage of 25 classic 6B-6C problems in reasonable definition (might load slowly) with a mellow dubstep soundtrack.

Does not feature any of the following:

• Driving to the boulders.
• Walking to the boulders.
• Making coffee.
• Drinking coffee.
• Sweeping panoramas.
• Snazzy MTV style choppy editing.
• Multiple camera angles.
• Brushing holds.
• Prolonged meditative intros.
• Close-ups of chalky fingers or flappers.
• Repeated attempts at the same moves.
• Big numbers

[mrjonathanr]

Excellent video, have a wad point.

(Although I did punter you twelve times for demeaning Robert Plant's fine work with dubcrap nonsense.)

[a dense loner]

Just watched the unedited shit above, good little vid. That Mother Night looks like water polished hell!!!

[Tommy]

5.20 Good work Matt! That's how I fall most of the time!

Can't believe I've watched you in a pair of Dragons... I'm sure you always used to have some kind of horrendous thick sock + 5.10 flat punter shoe combo 

[Mike Tyson]

Good job!

[jwi]

I thought Satan i Helvete shared the same start of Fata Morgana Bas.
What the hell does the name mean by the way?

“Satan i helvete” is a very common curse in Swedish, Norwegian and Danish (spelled “helvede” in Danish). It literarily means “Satan in hell” but idiomatically I would probably translate it as “fucking shit”. (In north germanic languages diabolic words form the core of swearing even if words of anatomical nature has just started to come back after being out of fashion for swearing for a few centuries. At least among the continental Scandinavian languages, I don't know about swearing in the Insular ones)

[ducko]

Welsh choss fest

[haydn jones]

5.20 Good work Matt! That's how I fall most of the time!

Can't believe I've watched you in a pair of Dragons... I'm sure you always used to have some kind of horrendous thick sock + 5.10 flat punter shoe combo 

that 6C is flippin' nails for the grade! took me loads of goes haha

[a dense loner]

Nice vid ducko. I've never thought that problem looked that great until now!

[Fiend]

Thanks guys.

Yeah that so-called 6C is definitely a sandbag, harder than anything else I tried!! I reckon it would go but I gave up working things too long. Cool problem though.

Tommy - hah!! These days it's a very thin sock + even thinner compression stocking combo, the stockings are slick enough that I get on tighter shoes with them, even allowing for the 0.25mm of extra material. Dragons are nice for short stuff, still prefer Browns for general support and routes.

Johnr - I don't think I've ever heard any Robert Plant, not deliberately anyway??

[mrjonathanr]

The voice sample 'Oh my tears they fell like rain' is from Led Zep's 'Since I've Been Loving You '
//m.youtube.com/watch?v=4gT63xovuWE

[Fiend]

Oh Okay

P.S. Thanks to Mike T for the colour-coordination appreciation, I do try :D

[andy_e]

[GCW]

Nice one you skinny wabby legged twonk.

Although on a serious note, I've been there once and achieved fuck all. Hunter's Roof looked great, but I spent two hours wandering around failing to pull on, and being out weirded by the antennae. 

[Jim]

I think the last clip sums up that place best, holes in skin and in clothes. awful sharp rock, never going again

[Will Hunt]

I think the last clip sums up that place best, holes in skin and in clothes. awful sharp rock, never going again

 

Its not my favourite venue. The heel hook on Hunter's roof has taken the heel off two pairs of climbing shoes, such that I don't think its worth going back to. The stuff in the woods is slightly less skin intensive.

[willackers]

Few more bits from Yorkshire and the Peak.