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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 2138543 times)

a dense loner

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#4325 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 19, 2015, 07:56:43 am
Really enjoyed the four from font vid.

Doylo enter looks like a scrappy lowball  ;)

I refuse to watch albarracin vids.

Jim

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#4326 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 19, 2015, 02:41:43 pm
enjoyed font vid as well. Nice to see someone actually do le bleurb! Turns out its not still a project!

Duma

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#4327 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 19, 2015, 08:56:20 pm
Le bleurb! Outrageous problem!

the_dom

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#4328 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 20, 2015, 03:21:44 am
Le bleurb! Outrageous problem!

I looked at it yesterday - did not look 7B

iwasmexican

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#4329 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 20, 2015, 09:55:08 am
easily the biggest fight on that from the whole trip, so hard to drag your right foot up once the heel is in. not sure if its usually started off the undercut as well, those first two moves add a surprising amount

Fiend

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#4330 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 20, 2015, 12:19:55 pm
Nice video and a nice soundtrack :)

andy_e

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#4331 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
April 27, 2015, 01:29:54 pm
Some pleasant evening bumbling:


mr chaz

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#4332 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 03, 2015, 12:33:24 pm
Some quality crushing in this


EStephens

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#4333 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 03, 2015, 08:27:38 pm
Two classics from Magic Wood. Fun times despite struggling with the warmth a bit.



mr chaz

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#4334 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 03, 2015, 09:41:04 pm
Like it, definitely quality.

Sasquatch

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#4335 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 05:24:38 pm
Some quality crushing in this


Indeed.

Question though. 

How can you flash something if you've already climbed over 1/2 of it? 

a dense loner

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#4336 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 08:20:58 pm
You can't

joble

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#4337 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 08:24:51 pm
I think you can if its a 'barrows flash'

a dense loner

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#4338 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 08:46:59 pm
Nobody counts anything barrows does  :tease:

Sasquatch

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#4339 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 09:03:54 pm
You can't
And yet they did :) 

And i've had to call out others locally for it as well.  Flash should be quite clear.

a dense loner

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#4340 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 09:20:16 pm
You'd think it was clear. I had to call monkey boy and woz out for it years ago, he still hates me for it

Doylo

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#4341 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 09:22:45 pm
You can't flash something you've done half the moves on.  :-\

mrjonathanr

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#4342 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 09:36:06 pm
Once you accept the term 'retroflash' has some valid meaning you can flash anything.

Sasquatch

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#4343 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 09:39:38 pm
Once you accept the term 'retroflash' has some valid meaning you can flash anything.
:wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:

You can't flash something you've done half the moves on.  :-\
Indeed.  I feel like I'm somehow the old guy now - "back in my day, a flash meant..." 

I'm of the school that if you've done any of the moves, you can't flash it, even the v0 topout on a v10.  Same for sport routes - Linkups can't be flashed if you've done the other route. 

And you certainly can't flash a v13, if you've done a v11 stand start to it.
« Last Edit: May 04, 2015, 09:45:31 pm by Sasquatch »

Doylo

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#4344 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 10:37:05 pm
I agree. You have to be strict or it's one big grey area.

dave

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#4345 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 10:41:01 pm
I reckon if you flashed the standup, and its a recognised pre-existing genuine standup, then subsequently do the sitter first attempt then I'd be happy for anyone to call that a flash.

Sasquatch

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#4346 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 10:51:56 pm
I reckon if you flashed the standup, and its a recognised pre-existing genuine standup, then subsequently do the sitter first attempt then I'd be happy for anyone to call that a flash.

I disagree.  You did it first go, but not a flash. 

dave

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#4347 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 10:57:52 pm
A flash IS doing it first go. If you're classing it as first go, by your own admission,  then its a flash

Sasquatch

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#4348 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 11:03:45 pm
No.  A flash is doing it first attempt having not done any of the moves before hand, nor pulled off the ground on any of the holds. 

Sasquatch

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#4349 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
May 04, 2015, 11:14:40 pm
I struggle to understand why there seems to be quite a bit of confusion about it.  A nice clean definition seems like it should be an easy thing. 

Using this:
I reckon if you flashed the standup, and its a recognised pre-existing genuine standup, then subsequently do the sitter first attempt then I'd be happy for anyone to call that a flash.
devalues the flash style of ascent to me.  If someone can go work a v12 stand start until they have it dialed and then add in a few moves of v8/9 at the bottom first go from the bottom, which bump it to v13 and call it a v13 flash, which can also be applied to a true untried v13 flash, then to me the term loses all value. One of those is much more impressive than the other.   

Here's a long debate about it in the US from a couple of months ago. The comments get pretty nasty, but it's not personal.
http://www.b3bouldering.com/2015/02/16/defining-a-flash/




 

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