It's a bit much to give things different grades depending on what footholds you use.
Quote from: JackAus on September 08, 2014, 01:10:34 amQuote from: a dense loner on September 07, 2014, 12:11:58 pm8A+? Seriously? It looks about 7B+http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528Have you climbed at Dinas? All the holds look good but they are all at the wrong angle and all feel terrible... At least they did the 2 times I went there in Feb 2012.It's a bit much to give things different grades depending on what footholds you use.
Quote from: a dense loner on September 07, 2014, 12:11:58 pm8A+? Seriously? It looks about 7B+http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528Have you climbed at Dinas? All the holds look good but they are all at the wrong angle and all feel terrible... At least they did the 2 times I went there in Feb 2012.
8A+? Seriously? It looks about 7B+
James repeated CA via the original sequence at 8A+, I believe there's an easier way been found using a foothold way out right that makes it 7C+/8A
I don't like arguing much on internet so come for chat at TCA Bristol this Saturday or message me for number if you want to talk like men.
Evening Gents,To be brutally honest I never usually reply to UKB rubbish like this, only conditions reports. This being the exception that I couldn't work out whether 'a dense loner' was joking or not with that first comment. Adam Ondra makes 8C look like 7B+ and easier in videos so I don't get what you were trying to say, you know Carpenters Apprentice gets 8A+ but someone climbing it in a video makes it look like a 7B+ and that means... what? Maybe you should downgrade the Big Paw to 7A to add to your internet infused ego.Thanks Ed, Jack and Duma for clarifying the problem. The Carpenters Apprentice starts sitting as for Fat Cat Roof (most logical place to start from sitting) but finishes on a blank face to the right involving an infamous press move. Some really tall people (Alex Mannion and Ben West for example) could stretch to a footblock/bulge down and right making the problem 7C+/8A but original line/beta still gets original 8A+. Norman, there are no "rules" or eliminates or what ever you name them just a cool problem with tall man and small man beta. Hope that clears things up. I don't like arguing much on internet so come for chat at TCA Bristol this Saturday or message me for number if you want to talk like men. Happy climbing, James
I like BSs post - insult everyone, compare yourself to AO, then challenge Dense to a fight. Strong entry to a thread.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202528
Opps sorry didn't mean to come across arrogant. I was just annoyed at people for downgrading stuff they havent climbed.
Found this while looking for beta - the meat of it is pretty much as I expected, but did find an interesting approach to topping out: