[tommytwotone]

Inspired by Andyd's recent vid I went to West Chevin and had a great time / did my first 7a in ages.


Health Warning - includes graphic scenes of offwidthing and a bit of Phil Collins.

[Jaspersharpe]

Ste and Ryan both cheated too (Steve with some crazy ass midget sequence), so the real FA is still up for grabs

What's the crazy midget sequence?

Having done Powerband / Staminaband by every variation that there was in the old days, it is definitely considerablly easier (particularly on Staminaband) to do the finish that way instead of the proper way as holding the pocket when a bit pumped is way more tricky than swinging down to the hold on the pillar. I can only imagine the difference is magnified by adding the Boy Band start into it.

So good effort Barrows but surely someone with your boredom threshold levels of stamina should have the proper finish as  a goal. 

[abarro81]

What's the crazy midget sequence?

IIRC Steve gets pocket with lh, rh goes to minging little pocket undercut on back wall, then lh to pillar.

Having done Powerband / Staminaband by every variation that there was in the old days, it is definitely considerablly easier (particularly on Staminaband) to do the finish that way instead of the proper way as holding the pocket when a bit pumped is way more tricky than swinging down to the hold on the pillar. I can only imagine the difference is magnified by adding the Boy Band start into it.

Yeah, no doubt would add to it. I'd never tried the go-again method until I tried this link and was pleasently surprised by how easy it was. Steve said solid 9a for him, I suspect that will be the case for anyone using the dropdown finish, especially if not lanking down to the toe hook under the pillar that some of us tall folk use for the dropdown move.

[Doylo]

Going straight to the pillar is steady if you're tall. That's how I first did Staminaband but was made to feel guilty so did it again with the drop down.

[Jaspersharpe]

What's the crazy midget sequence?

IIRC Steve gets pocket with lh, rh goes to minging little pocket undercut on back wall, then lh to pillar.

That sounds 

Having done Powerband / Staminaband by every variation that there was in the old days, it is definitely considerablly easier (particularly on Staminaband) to do the finish that way instead of the proper way as holding the pocket when a bit pumped is way more tricky than swinging down to the hold on the pillar. I can only imagine the difference is magnified by adding the Boy Band start into it.

Yeah, no doubt would add to it. I'd never tried the go-again method until I tried this link and was pleasently surprised by how easy it was. Steve said solid 9a for him, I suspect that will be the case for anyone using the dropdown finish

Makes sense ta.

Going straight to the pillar is steady if you're tall. That's how I first did Staminaband but was made to feel guilty so did it again with the drop down.

I hope it was your own conscience that made you feel guilty Doyle. 

[Probes]

Some Dow action.. good problems up there..

[monkey boy]

Offering from a few days of limestone last week.

<iframe src="//player.vimeo.com/video/92445989" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen mozallowfullscreen allowfullscreen></iframe> <p><a href="">317 Miles: Wales and Woodwell</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/davidmason">David Mason</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>

[GCW]

Some Dow action.. good problems up there..

Nice.  You make Daggermouth look like a sport/ endurance route!!!

[Whyatt]

Bens roof 7c+:

[205Chris]

Want to escape the Bank Holiday crowds next weekend?

[GCW]

Want to escape the Bank Holiday crowds next weekend?

Then come to Lancashire.

[Probes]

Some Dow action.. good problems up there..

Nice.  You make Daggermouth look like a sport/ endurance route!!!

Just making sure I enjoy every move 

[Gus]

Should have got a bit of "Predator" style gun show footage for that tree pulling down peakoteria scene!!

[Fiend]

Nice one Chris. Good film and good footage that shows the problems really well. I had to listen to the first half with the sound off though. Font grades for the highballs would have been useful.

One question: Why did you cut the tree down? And is it wise to show that on video wrt access and portraying climbers? (I don't have a problem with it myself)

[Bonjoy]

IMO it's not the sort of location where it would create access issues. It's half way up a steep rubble bank below an overgrown disused quarry, in the middle of a fairly thick wood well away from paths or dwellings. Also there has been a fair bit of tree/rhody clearance (not by climbers) not far away. The tree itself is/was a spindly sycamore among a host of other spindly sycamores.

[205Chris]

Should have got a bit of "Predator" style gun show footage for that tree pulling down peakoteria scene!!

Have you seen the size of my pathetic arms? I'm not sure the special effects budget would have been big enough to give me arms like Arnie!

Nice one Chris. Good film and good footage that shows the problems really well. I had to listen to the first half with the sound off though. Font grades for the highballs would have been useful.

One question: Why did you cut the tree down? And is it wise to show that on video wrt access and portraying climbers? (I don't have a problem with it myself)

Thanks. I think we've already established that not everyone has the same tastes in NQBV music  . I try and put a selection in but you're never going to please everyone. Fair point about highball grades, I just went with accepted guidebook grades but agree font grades would be useful for anyone attempting a ground up / flash etc.

I knew someone would ask about the tree! Pretty much what Bonjoy kindly wrote but also:

If you fell off you would have clattered into the tree without a doubt. You can see the position of the tree when I'm cleaning the route. I could have climbed it with the tree in place at E5ish and while I doubt it will ever have a queue of ascentionists I felt it was more likely to appeal as a paddable highball than an esoteric solo. You can't see it in the video but I trimmed the stump back too so the landing was flat.

Removing the tree will hopefully make it a bit more open to sunlight so it might not end up covered in moss again quite as quickly as it might have done.

[b3n99]

Manages to get to the Lake District for the first time over the Easter break and had a great trip with some awesome weather. Put together this video with some of the best stuff. 5 amazing spots, cant wait to go back.

[Mike Tyson]

 

[lagerstarfish]

Dolly crushing Jihad at Curbar

sorry to all the Dolly fans for taking so long getting it onto the interweb

[Jaspersharpe]

I knew someone would ask about the tree! Pretty much what Bonjoy said. Although he's already been proven to be a choad on such matters.

Removing the tree will hopefully make it a bit more open to sunlight so it might not end up covered in moss again quite as quickly as it might have done.

Choad!

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[andy_e]

[Luke Owens]

[haydn jones]

So apparently I did bullet a weird way, had never seen how to do it before. Anyone else done it the same way? Also does anyone know what the problem I did at the start is?

[a dense loner]

That birds all limbs! I've seen a couple of people do bullet that way, missed out any nonsense

[Dolly]

Missed out the first 2 moves of Beretta as well - just saying