[tomtom]

Yes - its good - quite a chorus willing her up..

[Jaspersharpe]

It's brilliant. 7C version of Marie Rose. Total commitment/achievement. Bonkers soundtrack......

And as my dear departed Brummie mate used to say "bet she'd be tops in't feather".

[nai]

This really needs an upgrade to QBV, a climber trying really hard at or near their limit on a scary highball, the moves are unobvious and it's difficult to see what's coming, she sets up one way then moves another, the western-like music builds to crescendo along with the shouts of encouragement, tension mounts and mounts to a gripping finale. You know the ending but it's still nervy. Pure Hollywood. Love It.

[Wood FT]

This really needs an upgrade to QBV, a climber trying really hard at or near their limit on a scary highball, the moves are unobvious and it's difficult to see what's coming, she sets up one way then moves another, the western-like music builds to crescendo along with the shouts of encouragement, tension mounts and mounts to a gripping finale. You know the ending but it's still nervy. Pure Hollywood. Love It.

Agreed, her reaction was brilliant

[Duma]

 
Ace, love the way she bounces off...

[a dense loner]

Talk about waxing lyrical

[dave]

Are you guys the crew?

[Wood FT]

Are you guys the crew?

what do you mean?

[Nigel]

My dream woman 

[monkey boy]

Dave Jones, Martin Smith and McPage all in 5 minutes of footage! Maybe it should be in the quality thread....

http://vimeo.com/59643936#at=0

[turnipturned]

Jonesy send of La pelle= Brillance.

Nice vid. Keep em coming!

[Stewart]

Jonesy send of La pelle= Brillance.

Agreed, made me want to watch this again

[a dense loner]

Why is that vid in the non-quality section? It had it all, more than one problem, people trying way below their limits, Martin doing 2 moves which you couldn't even see, and a soundtrack of music. Fantastic

[Fiend]

Posted cos the Ruthven boulder is awesome 

[r-man]

[leeroy]

nice day out yesterday, love that part of curbar.

[Wood FT]

Nice Leeroy, you got a new lens? Trench flakes snd Cool moon shots looked great

[Fiend]

Another bloody great problem that I haven't heard enough raving about. And yes it was that warm 

[SA Chris]

When i first found that booulder i perceived the prob as traversing out on that sloping rail, thought it looked hard and never gave it a shot. Guess there are other ways. There's a possibility of going straight through the roof avoiding the right wall and the left arete too. That will be hard!

[Fiend]

Not sure quite what you mean there? LTDCDM is described finishing with a direct rockover from the jug, about the same difficulty but shorter and safer. The lip traverse is described in your SC guide, as is the faint rail leading out from the groove at a higher level, that is The Sheep Pen Mantle. I'm not sure how you could fit in another line or avoid the left lip or right wall?

[SA Chris]

I'm talking about the sloping lip that goes across the overhang at just above head height where you climb in that vid. You just span across to the left arete and avoid using this.

The hard optionIi had in mind was hanging this same sloping lip and spanning straight up above your head to another hold and then to the top. Is this the sheep pen mantle? I haven't done it, or even been back since these probs were done and written up.

[Fiend]

Hmmmm. There is a non-undercling line of shadow by my head which does nothing. There's also a sloping rail about 1m further out in the roof, but there wouldn't be anyway to use that to climb the roof, you'd either be forced to the lip (more of lip than an arete given it's 60° overhanging) or forced on to the right wall.

Sheep Pen Mantle does pretty much what you say, rock onto the big ledge on the right wall (as for the previously unlisted Sheep Pen Groove), then use that faint rail (which is crucial palming for SPG) to span back to the apex jug, then finish direct (as for this version of LTDCDM)

Edit:



Shows the palming action on the rail at 0:30.

[Jaspersharpe]

To prevent any more argument, I did that footless in 1992 and called it "Happy Meal" 6A.

[Fiend]

Was that back when you were actually any good??

[Gritlad]

3 shaky climbs from this week. Not much style