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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 2138533 times)

Houdini

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#350 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 12, 2008, 11:45:01 pm
That was just fine Lagers - though I'm a L to R man.   


Mind you, some of the vids one can view from that vid make me wonder what people are playing at and their reasons for putting such guff online. 


lagerstarfish

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#351 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 12, 2008, 11:51:05 pm
though I'm a L to R man.   

Couldn't do L to R today  :shrug: I always try to do both enchained for ultimate satisfaction, don't manage it very often.

Houdini

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#352 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 12, 2008, 11:58:09 pm
I've give up trying to jump for the top off the smears.  It's massive for tiddlers.  I've been trying the Minstrels method last few of times I've been there (thats like 3 times the past decade . . .)  R Heel on the hold and statique to the top.

lagerstarfish

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#353 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 12:07:52 am
I've give up trying to jump for the top off the smears.  It's massive for tiddlers.  I've been trying the Minstrels method last few of times I've been there (thats like 3 times the past decade . . .)  R Heel on the hold ans statique to the top.

(Assume Deliverence?) I got it first go today while warming up and then couldn't do it again  :( which prompted me to make the daft film.
Mate of mine did it static off sitting on a right smear and crimping in on the flake. Wasn't his heel though. I ought to try to do it the static way... it would be far more satisfying. :dream:

Houdini

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#354 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 12:33:53 am
Deliverance.   Basic, but very long for the very short.



Please don't say Bransby (who is 2 or 3" taller), I've never forgiven him for suggesting he was weak one time at The Beacon (and he's climbed on grit since he was 4 or something).  Eh Mocho?

r-man

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#355 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 12:43:15 am
I know a 5ft1 Welshman who has done it off his heel. I'd love to see this technique in action, it sounds amazing.

Heels aside, when people talk about doing Deliverance static, do they really mean static, or are they just talking about using the high smear and pulling through to the top?

Houdini

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#356 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 12:46:16 am
Understand it to be LF high smear, RF & RH on sidejug, up to top w/ LH.

lagerstarfish

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#357 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 12:54:13 am
I've seen (me peering down from the top - so very close up) proper static from RF on smear below side hold, LF straight down from there, RH crimping on side hold and then rock up so effectively sitting on RF then LH can reach the top static. Wasn't a short person though... I want to do it.

GCW

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#358 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 01:40:27 am
This is the knowledge :lol:
Quote from: http://locals.extremekanal.com/england_peakdistrict.htm
5. DELIVERANCE font. 7b/+ (B9) Stanage "Plantation"
Because of extraordinary long distance between holds in not really overhanging slab the problem is technically very difficult to be estimated. Some people who are lower height talk about B10, meanwhile taller talk about easier grade. It had been statically done by March Le Menestrel. There is a joke about basket-ball player who took a pounce and pushed off from the lower part directly to the good upper hold. Otherwise, the problem begins on the left part, then it converts into slightly traversing to the right and then we have a legendary leap from extraordinary bad footholds directly to the top. For certain, the most appropriate is lower temperature and good spotting, mainly with bouldering pads. The number of movements is approximately 6.

Jaspersharpe

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#359 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 08:03:49 am
Good old March Le Menestrel eh?

Top videos lagers. Deliverance first go and nice footwork on the traverse? The feet must be feeling much better!  ;D

Kingy

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#360 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 10:33:21 am
This heel method sounds totally sick, yet another peak classic obliterated by the heel.  ???

Curiously enough when trying the 'rockover' method, stepping on the thin seam a few inches below the sidepull with the right foot, any use of the pebble high and left must be eschewed as this tends to throw you off balance and mean you gain less height. Just throw all in one motion, not that I've done it yet!

lagerstarfish

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#361 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 11:36:18 am
The feet must be feeling much better!  ;D

Did you notice the footwear? Oui, Oui, Fucking OUI! I am Cinderella - the performance shoes fit again and we have 6 weeks until Font. I even managed Strawberries at Curbar without any of the usual faff  :thumbsup: Failed on Ben's Wall, Great White and Play Hard, but am I bothered? Do my feet looked bothered? I AINT BOVERED (by gout)!

Jaspersharpe

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#362 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 11:52:26 am
Yes I did notice the shoes. Fucking sound.

First time climbing in two weeks for me later. Think the ligaments are healed ok. We'll see.

andy_e

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#363 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 01:53:03 pm
Strong!

r-man

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#364 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 02:29:52 pm
Deliverance...Just throw all in one motion, not that I've done it yet!

Aye, that's why this "static" method sounds odd, because it implies two moves - rockover, then reach. I'm not saying it's impossible, but for me, and most people I've seen, the move is a fluid pull/standup. When it goes right, anyway.

Alternatively, try it one handed:


philo

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#365 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 07:39:13 pm
Strong!

i was put off by the girl going..
go on get it!
etc

Fiend

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#366 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 07:41:19 pm
Good to see that (from Consumed) available in an online clip. Just the perfect thing to show my mates who are struggling with a long-term siege of deliverence :)

tommytwotone

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#367 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 11:48:17 pm
Am I the only one getting some weird music ting when I click on r-man's link?

Bloody deliverance. One day my right foot'll stick and I'll do it - been trying the 'right foot high' method for years and am well close.

GCW

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#368 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 13, 2008, 11:51:18 pm
Am I the only one getting some weird music ting when I click on r-man's link?

You are not alone.

Jim

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#369 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 14, 2008, 06:41:51 am
Am I the only one getting some weird music ting when I click on r-man's link?

Bloody deliverance. One day my right foot'll stick and I'll do it - been trying the 'right foot high' method for years and am well close.
Its not hard to make your right foot stick. Either you've been trying it in dirty shoes or your foot is in the wrong place

GCW

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#370 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 16, 2008, 12:26:48 am
Blackstone Edge Bouldering:


philo

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#371 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 16, 2008, 02:22:55 pm
Blackstone Edge Bouldering:



 :thumbsup: haha good that!
funny arghhh i hate you bit

nik at work

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#372 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 16, 2008, 04:23:38 pm
God I'm shit at topping out.

GCW

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#373 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 16, 2008, 04:27:20 pm
God, I'm shit at topping out  :lol:
Fucking gangly limbed lankmeister.  :-[

And that hat looks stupid.

lagerstarfish

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#374 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
February 25, 2008, 10:48:13 am
Action Man

 

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