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Non-Quality Bouldering Videos (Read 1939692 times)

turnipturned

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#6275 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 09:32:52 am
Couple of nice ones up at scout crag opposite Widdop. Nice to go to a new crag that I haven’t been too.


Will Hunt

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#6276 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 10:24:34 am
Nice viddy, Dan.

For the Stone Roses Traverse, I think you've topped out a bit early. SRT climbs into Pull My Strings which starts on the BB Slap finger jug and continues all the way under the lip to a finish at the far left of the boulder.

When I did BB Slap I didn't top out as direct as the stone hand does. Rather than do the rounded mantel you can scoot left into the groove and top out there. I'd be interested to know whether the direct mantel adds that much. If it doesn't then you've got two climbs which share a crux start, then the one with the long, techy 6C+ finish gets 7C+ and the one that finishes up BB Slap (6B with the cheeky scoot left) gets 8A.
Stone Hand is definitely the better problem imo, but my complete armchair opinion is that it probably shouldn't be harder than Stone Roses Traverse.

teestub

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#6277 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 10:41:54 am
I suppose armchair downgrading was the next logical step in Will’s evolution  :lol:

turnipturned

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#6278 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 10:42:51 am
Nice viddy, Dan.

For the Stone Roses Traverse, I think you've topped out a bit early. SRT climbs into Pull My Strings which starts on the BB Slap finger jug and continues all the way under the lip to a finish at the far left of the boulder.

When I did BB Slap I didn't top out as direct as the stone hand does. Rather than do the rounded mantel you can scoot left into the groove and top out there. I'd be interested to know whether the direct mantel adds that much. If it doesn't then you've got two climbs which share a crux start, then the one with the long, techy 6C+ finish gets 7C+ and the one that finishes up BB Slap (6B with the cheeky scoot left) gets 8A.
Stone Hand is definitely the better problem imo, but my complete armchair opinion is that it probably shouldn't be harder than Stone Roses Traverse.

Ah good knowledge, I didn’t have a guide just remember from sutts vid, it’s continues around the corner. Never mind. Yeah probably all very similar in grade the crux is the start! Good fun none the less

Duma

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#6279 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 10:53:22 am
I suppose armchair downgrading was the next logical step in Will’s evolution  :lol:
beat me to it!

36chambers

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#6280 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 12:26:17 pm
Nice viddy, Dan.

For the Stone Roses Traverse, I think you've topped out a bit early. SRT climbs into Pull My Strings which starts on the BB Slap finger jug and continues all the way under the lip to a finish at the far left of the boulder.

When I did BB Slap I didn't top out as direct as the stone hand does. Rather than do the rounded mantel you can scoot left into the groove and top out there. I'd be interested to know whether the direct mantel adds that much. If it doesn't then you've got two climbs which share a crux start, then the one with the long, techy 6C+ finish gets 7C+ and the one that finishes up BB Slap (6B with the cheeky scoot left) gets 8A.
Stone Hand is definitely the better problem imo, but my complete armchair opinion is that it probably shouldn't be harder than Stone Roses Traverse.

Ah good knowledge, I didn’t have a guide just remember from sutts vid, it’s continues around the corner. Never mind. Yeah probably all very similar in grade the crux is the start! Good fun none the less

Obviously, we'll have to upgrade the Stone Roses Traverse to 8A. Unless Will does either or something ;)

Good viddy as always Dan, liking the new mic.

tommytwotone

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#6281 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 12:55:14 pm
I suppose armchair downgrading was the next logical step in Will’s evolution  :lol:

Soon to move on to armchair climbing now that child #2 has arrived...

Will Hunt

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#6282 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 12:55:59 pm
I'm not saying that the Stone Hand isn't 8A, I'm just saying that if that is 8A and the direct mantel on BB Slap isn't hard (it's not made to look so in the video) then Stone Roses Traverse must be harder. So if the consensus on Stone Hand is soft 8A then SRT is probably just a more middling 8A.

Will Hunt

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#6283 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 02:13:37 pm
You can see the difference in top outs here. Sam does the left hand top out to finish at 7:35. This shares the start with SRT but is an easy 6B top out instead of the harder 6C+ trav that you do on SRT.

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#6284 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 07:07:47 pm
I was at Scout with Dave Buchanan a few months ago. We had a look at Stone Hand but it was wet.

Anyway, he told me then that he did SRT when he was a teenager, he did it really quick, and nothing was ever given 8A back then so he just went one lower.

I did both the mantle and leftwards exit and thought they were about the same. Haven't done the traverse but all the holds are good.

Either way, you definitely topped out early Dan, back around  ;) (good work really  :weakbench:)

Will Hunt

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#6285 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 09:16:32 pm
Good knowledge. Sounds like Stone Roses should just go up to 8A then.

36chambers

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#6286 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 10:57:29 pm
Good knowledge. Sounds like Stone Roses should just go up to 8A then.

apologises for another grade discussion, and just to make matters clearer, I personally thought Stone Hand was more like 7C/+. But my beta was a tad different and it's completely my style n that.

edit: apparently Sam thought it was harder than the fonze, so horses for courses n that.

tim palmer

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#6287 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 28, 2020, 10:58:45 pm
Well at least you have climbed the problem

Bradders

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#6288 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 09:26:50 am
Easier for the short  ;)

Will Hunt

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#6289 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 09:32:43 am
You don't need to have climbed the problem to understand that:
X + 6B shouldn't be harder than X + 6C+

Fiend

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#6290 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 09:35:48 am
You don't need to have climbed the problem to understand that

...go and do one of these problems some time. Then your opinion may be worth more than nothing.

SA Chris

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#6291 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 09:54:51 am
Tou-fucking-che.

Will Hunt

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#6292 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 01:13:44 pm
Christ, talk about things being blown out of proportion. I have done both finishes, each of which is an independent boulder problem in its own right. Fiend, normally when you offer your opinions on grades in Yorkshire it's at crags that you've not even visited, let alone having done or even attempted the problems.
If anyone has done the start into both finishes and thinks that the Stone Hand is harder then that's fair enough.

Fiend

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#6293 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 01:35:22 pm
It was mostly a joke - your logic is sensible and I doubt there's any dispute. Incidentally I have been to that bit of Scout, the conditions were mediocre, I didn't like the hillside landing, and my guts felt bad.

And I previously wasn't offering any opinion on problems I haven't looked at and would never be able to do, I was offering an opinion why a good climber might find easier problems, well, easier.

More interestingly I reckon there could be some rare occasions where an easier problem felt a harder finish on a link - if it was the sort of problem that was harder if you're drained. Enduro-problem Y into 6B bulge could feel harder than into a 6C slab topout  :devangel:

jwi

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#6294 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 04:40:01 pm

More interestingly I reckon there could be some rare occasions where an easier problem felt a harder finish on a link - if it was the sort of problem that was harder if you're drained. Enduro-problem Y into 6B bulge could feel harder than into a 6C slab topout  :devangel:

Tounge in cheek or not, this can absolutely be the case. A draining 8a sport route into a 5B dyno can easily be 8a+ (in fact I have an example in mind). A draining 8a to a vertical techy 6A boulder is still 8a (I have an example in mind in the same area as previous example).

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#6295 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 09:13:00 pm
Back on topic, flipping heck he makes this look utter piss.



What do reckon Will, 6C+?

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#6296 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 10:32:12 pm
Shiiiit! Makes you wonder what all the fuss the MellowRegulars made of it was all about!

36chambers

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#6297 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 29, 2020, 11:11:30 pm
Shiiiit! Makes you wonder what all the fuss the MellowRegulars made of it was all about!

The new gen are coming through. I think Drew is like 20 years old, whereas Woods, Webb, and Nalle are all 30+ now. They'll soon be taken over by the young guns.

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#6298 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 30, 2020, 07:28:21 am
That vid proves the point that it’s always better to be light even on burly stuff.

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#6299 Re: Non-Quality Bouldering Videos
January 30, 2020, 07:45:01 am
Wow, he looks so floaty on that move to the intermediate and then to the jug! I live for that floaty feeling in climbing but it happens about once every 5 years now for me :lol:

 

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