[duncan]

(sorry for the very low quality!)
Is Fontainebleau becoming a crack climbing Mecca?



well, not really.
but this problem is 4-5 stars in its niche: 7 meters long, glory handjams all the way, the ground is close so you can't swing but not close enough to make it feel ackward (unless you use a thick pad or have very long arms).

warning: prone to seepage, dries slowly, long walk in...but has a few very good non seeping non crack problems, 7a to 8a, 20 meters away.

Pure Line: Font 7c and glory hand jams the whole way. What's the catch!?

[ghisino]

(sorry for the very low quality!)
Is Fontainebleau becoming a crack climbing Mecca?



well, not really.
but this problem is 4-5 stars in its niche: 7 meters long, glory handjams all the way, the ground is close so you can't swing but not close enough to make it feel ackward (unless you use a thick pad or have very long arms).

warning: prone to seepage, dries slowly, long walk in...but has a few very good non seeping non crack problems, 7a to 8a, 20 meters away.

Pure Line: Font 7c and glory hand jams the whole way. What's the catch!?

well, if you tought of 7 metres of continuous yellow camalot crack with perfectly parallel walls, thats not it! it's mostly red camalot sized, sometimes greenish, with larger flared pods. For me the cruxes were the matches at 0:30 and 1:10, in both cases the jams are ackward or difficult to hit perfectly.

maybe it will be easier for a girl???


It could maybe be v6/8 in the US? It is really hard to give it am "international" grade as the only "handjams in a horizontal roof" comparisons i can make are two routes in the 5.12/euro7b range: separate reality and legoland.
Climbing this, withouth the hassle of protection, is noticeably harder than leading either route...


bottom line: let's call it a soft 7c in the "font crack climbing" scale, with lueur d'espoir being the proper/hard 7c. That is more or less accurate. 

[Doylo]

Future mega beast alert, Finn Hayward. Already climbed several 8as and now 7C+. Can't remember how old he is, 12ish I think. Proper impressive climber.

[willackers]

I really, really loved New Zealand, such an awesome place. Already planning my next trip, hopefully get to Flock next time.

[lemony]

We were there in the middle of a 30 degree heatwave this March, most stuff was pretty much unclimbable (by a punter like me) in that heat but it was still one of the most extraordinary places I've ever been and the climbing we did do was great fun and totally unique. We definitely want to get back.

[fatneck]

Nice Will! Top on Juggernaut looks desperate 

[willackers]

Nice Will! Top on Juggernaut looks desperate 

Cheers, I think it was me making it look desperate, I was pretty knackered when I got there.

[SA Chris]

Pads on Run and Jump - back around. Was told off by a local for that.

[lagerstarfish]

not a dab in sight here

low grade, less than vertical, technical, quarried grit

to my mind, the easiest and most pleasant variation of the traverses between Fairy Steps and S Crack in Ilkley Quarry

probably Font 5+ with a nice flat landing

[tomtom]

I know your game Lagers... this is all part of a long term hustling plan... post a few vids of you doing some fives so we get all complacent. Then boom- you rack up at the crag and cruise through a few 7's.... you've been made buster.

[lagerstarfish]

shhh

 

[dave]

Could use some drone footage or a timelapse.

[J.Kydd]

Quick video from a great day on the moor on Saturday

[tomtom]

Could use some drone footage or a timelapse.

The camera person was an old lady Lagers commandeered from the Ilkley tea hut... which may well qualify as being a drone and lapsed time...

[SA Chris]

Could use some drone footage or a timelapse.

The camera person was an old lady Lagers commandeered from the Ilkley tea hut... which may well qualify as being a drone and lapsed time...

Or prolapse time.

[lagerstarfish]

proper treat for you all here

Ilkley Quarry Right Walls again - traverse from the bottom of Short Circuit to Earwig Rib (6A) followed by the warm-up traverse (4)

managed a decent vegetation dab and bollocksed up the sequence when I was distracted by how cold my hands were in the biting wind

[turnipturned]

Tim Palmer on Chiasmata at Almcliffe.

Might inspire people to try this mega line, arguably the best climbing at the cliff.

[tomtom]

Dan - is the top out heinous on this? (trying to picture it) as Tim scoots off right at the end?

[Johnny Brown]

Ha, that's just what I thought. Back around...

[36chambers]

Dan - is the top out heinous on this? (trying to picture it) as Tim scoots off right at the end?

I may be wrong, but it looks like it would finish up Pigott's Stride (VS 4c)

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=155601

[turnipturned]

Dan - is the top out heinous on this? (trying to picture it) as Tim scoots off right at the end?

I have no idea. I certainly didn't, quite a few people have repeated it though. Nike Air?

[El Mocho]

Tim Palmer on Chiasmata at Almcliffe.

Might inspire people to try this mega line, arguably the best climbing at the cliff.

I'm inspired. How many pads do you need - looks like he has a bunch. Def looks like Pigott's Stride direct start, the crux of which is probably the stride so you would be looking at a Severe top out...

"...arguably the best bouldering at the cliff."

[lemony]

I'm racking my brains back a decade or more but don't you finish Piggot's up that awkward polished MVS crack (Whiskey Crack?). I think I'd traverse off.

[webbo]

Piggotts Stride finishes at the ledge, you can choose whatever finish you want from there. But what TomTom is questioning is when he gets the break, he swings right and looks like he descends V Chimmey instead of doing Piggotts Stride. Which goes straight up from the break to the ledge.
It was done pre 1923. It used to be severe, it's now VS. How hard can it be.

[dave]

This is like asking if someone doing Hubble is going to top out up Body Machine.