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Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
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Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
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Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
October 30, 2006, 02:52:13 pm
Was at Baslow last week and went to try the sit start to Hurry On Sundown. I've done it from standing but can't work out how to do the sitter. Not sure it's a very good problem as the crux seemed to be stopping my right heelhook from turning into a heel-toe against the block to the right. Am I missing something? Is there a more elegant way that just snatching up the arete with my right foot on the arete? If it is straight up the arete then I'm going to have to wait for a very cold day before it's vaguely feasible.
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BenF
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#1 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
October 30, 2006, 03:35:23 pm
I seem to remember that the sitter involved plenty of slapping up the arete as you suggested. I did it on a very cold day as it happens and it was all about gripping the arete hard, whilst smearing feet by the arete. I really liked the problem once I had worked the sitter out; which took me a little while to get the feet sorted (again, if I remember rightly).
Dunno if all that helps much though, sorry.
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Bonjoy
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#2 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
October 30, 2006, 04:46:05 pm
?? Have not heard of this? Is it at Gardoms as per the title or Baslow as per the post?
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#3 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
October 30, 2006, 05:15:34 pm
Oops. Yes, it's at Baslow. The arete just right of Flatworld. Must have had Gardoms on my mind because that's where I went yesterday. Did your English Voodoo and a good problem it is.
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Bonjoy
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#4 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
October 30, 2006, 08:04:39 pm
Niice. 7a seem about right? You try the sitter?
Is that arete beside Flatworld still as super scrittly as it was when I tried it?
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#5 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
October 30, 2006, 08:11:37 pm
I'm terrible at grades but 7a seems quite plausible. Took me a few goes and it was quite warm. In fact, Jon, who I was there with, was in shorts and a vest. That ain't right for the end of October. Jon did the sitter but I couldn't do the first move. One to go back to when (if) it gets cold. We presumed that the crack on the right was out and that the first move of the sitter was pulling off the deck with left hand on the arete and right hand on the sidepull close to the arete.
The arete just right of Flatworld is Hurry On Sundown. Pretty clean and solid now.
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Bonjoy
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#6 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
October 30, 2006, 08:19:50 pm
Your presumptions were correct.
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ferret
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#7 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
November 01, 2006, 09:05:07 pm
ok seem to remember something like this.
rf smeer, lf heelhook arete, maybe make one slap with lh then cross off lf heel hook to match both hands on right arete, move rf up then slowly release left heel bit barn doory then procede to climb arete with alot more ease.
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#8 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
November 01, 2006, 10:06:32 pm
Thanks, ferret. I'll give that a try on the next cold day I'm out, and it looks like quite a few cold days are with us now.
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Aussiegav
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#9 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
November 02, 2006, 07:11:43 pm
IF YOU LIKE THIS PROBLEM THEN TRY SILVER LINING AT FROGGAT, RIGHT OF TODY'S WALL. EXCEPT SLAPPING WITH YOUR LEFT HAND, MIND YOU, IT'S A ROUTE WITH NO GEAR. BUT THOUROUGHLY RECOMMENDABLE IF YOU ARE FEELING BOLD.
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unclesomebody
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#10 Re: Hurry On Sundown at Gardoms
November 02, 2006, 08:21:54 pm
Silver Lining... my first E5 (is it even E5??). I fell off a couple of times getting into the crux but luckily shook my way up the rest. It's only short but i enjoyed it so maybe I should try Hurry on Sundown!
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