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Carn Brea Knowledge (Read 1846 times)

Idol eyes

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Carn Brea Knowledge
November 03, 2006, 07:20:58 pm
Need some info on the granite, did a problem that is V hard, and thinking that it could be virgin. great area, a locals
tour would be handy.
the problem is a dyno of undercuts, on the right wall of the easy slabs behind the famous aretes boulder, its got a half turf, half stone landing next to a big boulder that slopes away, it is quite ard...
Locals, talk to me...

Andy W

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#1 Re: Carn Brea Knowledge
November 03, 2006, 08:15:51 pm
is it a vertical wall, clean rock, with a horizontal crack splitting it at chest height, with another break at say 8ft?

Idol eyes

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#2 Re: Carn Brea Knowledge
November 03, 2006, 08:41:27 pm
Er, yes...

Idol eyes

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#3 Re: Carn Brea Knowledge
November 03, 2006, 08:45:06 pm
I undercut the break, goofy foot on smears, jack up and coil, snatch lft hand crimp and fire for the jug rt handed.com

Andy W

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#4 Re: Carn Brea Knowledge
November 03, 2006, 08:54:41 pm
Well I might be thinking of the right spot....walk up from classic boulder and its on the left. The wall has been climbed, called I think 'crystal line' or sometimes known as 'cystalline entity', its climbed normally from undercut to crimps on the wall for right and left, some foot moves and reach for the top. Should be someone up there over weekend i would have thought, drop me a line and I can show you around.

Idol eyes

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#5 Re: Carn Brea Knowledge
November 03, 2006, 08:59:25 pm
Look, i would love to stay in touch, in Norway at the momment but should be back within the next two weeks, then of to Font, so i need a bouldering session in between, but also to meet local nutcases. My number is 00447981693446. and my name is pat...

A Jooser

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#6 Re: Carn Brea Knowledge
November 07, 2006, 12:27:02 pm
As already mentioned it sounds very much like you’ve climbed Crystalline Entity, which (as far as I know) was first climbed by John Burgess in the late nineties. It has been done by quite a few people now including some swift ascents from the likes of ‘Wakey’ Chris and ‘Bendy’ Dave Henderson. John rated it as ‘sandbag V5 6b’ but even those who think it’s ‘easy’ reckon V6 is nearer the mark. I personally find it quite hard.

Incidentally, a list of hard boulder problems in West Cornwall that was compiled for ww.javu.co.uk is now available as a PDF download at Andy W’s blog where comments can be left…
http://blocspenwith.blogspot.com/2006/10/west-and-mid-cornwall-hardest.html

Any feedback regarding grades, repeats etc. is much appreciated as it’s hoped this list can be kept as up-to-date as possible. If you think there are any startling omissions then posting a comment would be helpful too!

 

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