UKBouldering.com

Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions (Read 73581 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8789
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
#50 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 28, 2011, 06:48:04 pm
you checked out the price of a 16mm hilti bit and glue?  :jaw:

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11586
  • Karma: +720/-22
#51 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 28, 2011, 06:59:00 pm
Some of them are Petal expansions so will only need a 12?mm bit and no glue.

ChrisC

Online
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 181
  • Karma: +8/-0
#52 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 28, 2011, 07:32:45 pm
If anyone wants to be getting on with kristans list or anything else then my drill is sitting in Sheffield while I'm away travelling. PM me if you want to borrow it. 

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 386
  • Karma: +43/-0
#53 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 28, 2011, 10:12:34 pm
I think Cry Of Despair has been done.  The fourth looks a bit rusty but I think most people skip it anyway.  I clipped it rather than fifth and it held me though.
Well that's OK then? I get the impression that the person who tried to bolt that route didn't have a clue what they were doing, looking at the way the bolts were SMASHED in.
I think we should do a proper job on that route as it is rather popular and spends most of the year under water.
If anyone can get hold of the good shit Hilti HIT-HY 150 or such like for next year.
Using resin bolts at the cornice is good but I would rather just use A4 expansions on places like Two tier.
Add:
Minos & Buster

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9996
  • Karma: +579/-10
#54 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 29, 2011, 10:14:01 am
I've got a big bag of bolts that the BMC have donated, for re-equiping only of course. If anyone needs any send me a PM.

Abracadabseil's pull tester is also available to borrow if anyone wants.
Would you be willing to hold the PBF drill at your place? My house is right on the edge of the city and not the most convenient place for people to pick stuff up from. Bransby has it currently and could pass on to you when he's finished with it.
Re-bolt suggestions:
Scum Manifesto very good 7a+ at LTQ
All the routes at Bend Tor
Quite a few things on Long Wall Cheedale
I think The Spider could do with big resin bolts, the 10mm bolts in that rock gave me the fear, especially the one on the crux where the rock behind the hanger is falling to pieces!

In an ideal world some young blood with heaps of time and enthusiasm could take over the PBF and inject some life into the effort (all offers considered!). In all honesty me and Paul haven't done the cause justice at all this year.

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11586
  • Karma: +720/-22
#55 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 29, 2011, 10:25:15 am
Do you mean at my house or at Abracadabseil?. Be no problems keeping all the kit at work, we have plenty of space down there.

Neil F

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 336
  • Karma: +41/-1
#56 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 29, 2011, 05:01:44 pm
 I hope you're well insured...  ;)

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9996
  • Karma: +579/-10
#57 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 30, 2011, 07:24:38 am
Was meaning your work. It's pretty central. I suppose the main downside would be that folk would have to make collections during office hours. Maybe I should ask the Works instead.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3110
  • Karma: +151/-5
#58 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 18, 2012, 04:27:00 pm
I have 13 hangers and a lower off as part of some instructional get up that's cluttering up our stores. The hangers are screwed into a piece of plywood.

I'm happy to give them away to someone involved in re-equipping routes in the Peak if you're willing to take the whole piece of ply (need to be collected from Jagged Globe at the Foundry Studios next to the Foundry within the next week.

Photo here:
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/images/dbpage.html?id=6315

P.M. me if you're interested

SamT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2223
  • Karma: +107/-0
#59 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 18, 2012, 06:10:46 pm
Pm sent

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

SamT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2223
  • Karma: +107/-0
#60 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 23, 2012, 08:51:13 pm
duly wadded

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29594
  • Karma: +643/-12
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#61 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 24, 2012, 10:57:27 am
Quote from: T_B link=topic=6359.msg380288#msg380288 Photo here:
[url=http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/images/dbpage.html?id=6315
http://www.jagged-globe.co.uk/images/dbpage.html?id=6315[/url]


Is the brown one top right UIAA approved?

SamT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2223
  • Karma: +107/-0
#62 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 24, 2012, 12:09:07 pm

 :-[  :lol:

(for a moment I thought you meant the brownish/orange gate one on the right - which is a Fixe Draco)

Need some suggestions for where they can be put.  I was thinking some loweroffs at Rubicon could do with replacing - e.g. dragonflight, tribes, Dan Bro, too old, miller tale, bigger tail etc etc etc.

Its a pity that there are two crabs on the one ring.  The screw gate could be removed and put on another ring but would then no longer be captive and subject to theft.   :-\

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9996
  • Karma: +579/-10
#63 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 24, 2012, 12:32:54 pm

Need some suggestions for where they can be put.  I was thinking some loweroffs at Rubicon could do with replacing - e.g. dragonflight, tribes, Dan Bro, too old, miller tale, bigger tail etc etc etc.

They all sound good to me. Maybe lower offs on Pirahna and Whitebait too and the singular bolt on Jezebel also needs replacing

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 386
  • Karma: +43/-0
#64 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 24, 2012, 12:33:43 pm
Of course it would be best to remove all the chains from the crag and replace them with one of these http://www.bolt-products.com/BelayBolts.htm
which the PBF will supply. Save chain belays for the quarries or where they will be out of sight.

Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9996
  • Karma: +579/-10
#65 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 24, 2012, 12:40:51 pm
 :agree:

SamT

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2223
  • Karma: +107/-0
#66 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 24, 2012, 01:03:09 pm
fine by me - and whole heartedly agree about the chains.  Perhaps I can swap them for some BP ones. 

Kris - pm me with your address/mob number and I'll pop round sometime soon and pick up some kit.  Keen to get on with the Rubicon ones.   

I realise relations with the natives are sensitive to say the least but is my understanding correct - that anything between Rubicon and Salar is OK at the moment.

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 386
  • Karma: +43/-0
#67 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
October 24, 2012, 01:48:15 pm
Yes at the moment everything is fine. Although I suspect the C&LFF/mafia will be looking for excuses as they are already making things difficult upstream.

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8789
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
#68 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
December 04, 2013, 12:57:02 pm
Anyone itching to do some re-bolting ?

I have bought a new Hilti drill which I can lend out (not for too long please - I use it for DIY) and have some PBF/BMC bolts and glue too though needs a 16mm drill bit for these.

I also have an old Hilti drill (but defunkt batteries) that can be lent indefinitely if someone wants to get properly stuck in. 

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 386
  • Karma: +43/-0
Apparently there is now a lower off on whitebait and possibly one on Piranha to follow using kit I have supplied from the PBF.

Also some info to note is the state of the bolts on the Flow 8a+ on Two Tier. All the washers have been removed as they were bleeding rust on the stainless bolts. All the hangers were loose and the 3rd and 5th bolts could not be tightened and are rattling around in there holes and therefore need to be replaced.

bigironhorse

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 767
  • Karma: +16/-0
    • YouTube
Not sure if this is the right place but just thought I would post that the lower off for Jive Turkey/Bullet the Blue Sky isn't great. Currently there is a peg and two old bolts, hangers look okay but the bolts themselves seemed pretty rusty.

lurcher

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 59
  • Karma: +5/-0
Apparently there is now a lower off on whitebait and possibly one on Piranha to follow using kit I have supplied from the PBF.

Whitebait has been retro-bolted, rather than just new lower off. There is a new double bolt lower off at the top of the crag and a double bolt lower off above the bulge. In addition there is a new bolt next to the peg  (which is also new I think).

Bolt at the flake of Piranha , anyone??   


lurcher

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 59
  • Karma: +5/-0
Whitebait has been retro-bolted, rather than just new lower off. There is a new double bolt lower off at the top of the crag and a double bolt lower off above the bulge. In addition there is a new bolt next to the peg  (which is also new I think).

Bolt at the flake of Piranha , anyone??   




sorry , just meant to copy bit of kc's post

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8177
  • Karma: +661/-121
    • Unknown Stones
#73 Re: Peak Bolt Fund discusion/suggestions
August 06, 2018, 10:45:14 am
This is a suggestion for cleaning/stabilisation as opposed to re-equipping. On The Road at Lorry Park Quarry is a masterpiece of a route in a rancid location. It seems to be getting loads of traffic since the new guide came out:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=22912

There is a big block near the top (on the right wall of the corner, near the lower off) which looks a bit perilous and you end up pulling on it quite a bit. It might be quite stable, but it looks like it might deteriorate in a few years time. The line of the rope is directly under the block and I suspect it would quite happily chop the leader's rope if/when it does go. Would this be a candidate for some crowbarring (you'd have to hope there were could holds behind) or slapping a load of glue down the back of it?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal