[Tom de Gay]

Surely not. Were Bleausards really climbing sit-starts on obscure boulders in obscure areas in the late 70s?

The plus grades were a later addition to the scale (not sure when, early 80s?), hence there being not very many 6C+, 6B+ etc. So I guess the first 7B+ would probably have been a 7B or C originally.

Edit: also, I don't think the first ascensionist was active until the late 80s

[Will Hunt]

Surely not. Were Bleausards really climbing sit-starts on obscure boulders in obscure areas in the late 70s?

Of only tangential relevance, but people obsessing over weird bits of rock is older than you might think.
Gremlin's Wall, E4 6b, Ilkley Rocky Valley, unstarred. Climb Flake Climb but boldly venture up the wall (about 3m tall) right of the final flake. FA Roy Heilds 1953.

A very significant lead by a local expert who spent the summer bivouacking in The Valley. Probably the hardest on gritstone anywhere at the time, it was dismissed by many who thought it impossible for the day and was omitted in the 1961 guidebook until its rediscovery by Al Manson in 1977.

Maybe Heilds was the Gaskins of his day? I've gone up to lead it and been pretty sure I'd do it but didn't think the risk of hitting my ankles on the ledge you climb above was worth the 0-star reward. Did it with a rope above after and it's very obvious what you have to do and not massively hard, so could be top end 6a/low end 6b. Regardless, very impressive for the early 1950s! It's really uninspiring but obviously Heilds could see that it would go and couldn't get the idea out of his head.

[mrjonathanr]

Bit of an open offer based on some conversations elsewhere, but if anyone has any digital material you think is of interest (pics of a cool FA, vids of interesting repeats, guidebook draft material etc.) I'd be happy to sort out some long term storage via climbing-history.org.

If you'd be happy making it public that'd obviously be cool, but if you just want somewhere safe for it and want to keep it private I'd be happy to help with that too.

Just drop me a DM.

Sent you a link

[webbo]

Surely not. Were Bleausards really climbing sit-starts on obscure boulders in obscure areas in the late 70s?

Of only tangential relevance, but people obsessing over weird bits of rock is older than you might think.
Gremlin's Wall, E4 6b, Ilkley Rocky Valley, unstarred. Climb Flake Climb but boldly venture up the wall (about 3m tall) right of the final flake. FA Roy Heilds 1953.

A very significant lead by a local expert who spent the summer bivouacking in The Valley. Probably the hardest on gritstone anywhere at the time, it was dismissed by many who thought it impossible for the day and was omitted in the 1961 guidebook until its rediscovery by Al Manson in 1977.

Maybe Heilds was the Gaskins of his day? I've gone up to lead it and been pretty sure I'd do it but didn't think the risk of hitting my ankles on the ledge you climb above was worth the 0-star reward. Did it with a rope above after and it's very obvious what you have to do and not massively hard, so could be top end 6a/low end 6b. Regardless, very impressive for the early 1950s! It's really uninspiring but obviously Heilds could see that it would go and couldn't get the idea out of his head.

I think this is pure bollocks given the guy was using aid on VS’s I spent time belaying Al Manson when he was trying this and it took him numerous sessions to do it. He was absolutely staggered when he heard the retro claim. If some one like Austin, Jimmy Fullalove or Eric Lilley had claimed it maybe but Ron Hields was a VS punter.

[AndyR]

I think this is pure bollocks given the guy was using aid on VS’s I spent time belaying Al Manson when he was trying this and it took him numerous sessions to do it. He was absolutely staggered when he heard the retro claim. If some one like Austin, Jimmy Fullalove or Eric Lilley had claimed it maybe but Ron Hields was a VS punter.

This is the reason I still check UKb - best post in a decade!

[remus]

Bit of a niche one, but don't suppose anyone has a copy of Pat Aments 2009 film 'The Disciples of Gill'?

Yes, I do! Delayed reply because I had to locate it and retrieve it -- didn't want to make any promises until I knew I could actually lay hands on it. Do you want to borrow/copy it?

Ah that's amazing, thanks so much for digging it out! Yeah I'd love to borrow it if that's ok? I'll drop you a DM.

[SA Chris]

Anyone know if Steve Dunning's dyno Super Furry Animal at Slipstones has had a repeat?

Surprised at this if no-one?