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UK grit bouldering vs UK non-grit bouldering.

UK Grit.
UK non-grit (rhyolite sandstone gabbro limestone granite basalt schist etc).

UK grit bouldering vs UK non-grit bouldering. (Read 22103 times)

Pantontino

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The analogy was bad, as pears are undoubtedly a rubbish fruit.

Going back to the great fruit debate: I do see a place for both the apple and the orange, but I think on balance the apple wins. I reckon it is more nutritious (a scientific fact perchance?) and you can make cider out of it. Plus, the amount of apples I eat at the moment, I'm in danger of turning into one.

BenF

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No Simon, the pear is not a bad fruit; it's just a little misunderstood as far too many people attempt to eat them when they clearly ain't ripe.

However, the apple is the daddy of all common fruits and I too am currently engaged in a regime of attempting to eat my body weight in Cox's (yeah, plenty of scope there).  I've always loved apples, but since I now try to buy pretty much only locally produced (ok, UK produced) fruit and veg, we've been eating a lot of apples and "root surprise".

Somebody once told me that apples contain a stimulant more powerful than amphetamines.  Clearly bollocks, but I have tested both rigorously and discovered that eating around 200 apples does cause a certain form of stimulation.  No use for dancing all night though.

Monolith

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Can't wait to see what the distilled chemical in apples is. Make no mistake, it will be hitting UK dancefloors in pill form.

BenF

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Yeah, they'll be little orchards springing up in the corners of all underground clubs pretty soon.

(Oz told me that well dodgy "fact" about apples by the way.  Again, clearly shite)

Monolith

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 :lol:

I can't remember exactly what that fact was, other than it sounded hilarious. Enlighten the masses?

BenF

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I meant the apples being stronger than speed "fact".

Note: this whole thread has turned into a fantastic tangent.  Kinda appropriate really.

Fiend

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A tangy tangent no less.

Still, that nearly 1/3 of votes prefer non-grit shows that it isn't a trivial question.

Doylo

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No one can say that Parisellas Cave is better than grit cos it ain't true. What you can say however is "i prefer climbing in the cave to climbing on grit". Nothing wrong with that.

(woz)

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I would much rather top out on a nice grit problem than anything else, but I often choose a guaranteed good session at a dry limestone crag over driving through Sheffield to get to the moors, risking dampness and f**cked up skin, ending up trying something when it's far too hot etc etc.

NB. Obviously on cold dry days there is no question where I'm going.

Johnny Brown

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Quote
No one can say that Parisellas Cave is better than grit cos it ain't true. What you can say however is "i prefer climbing in the cave to climbing on grit". Nothing wrong with that.

Now that's talking sense.

Fiend

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In retrospect I don't think I should have included limestone on a list of example non-grit rock types...

Bonjoy

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Quote from: Bonjoy
Bit of a no brainer i'd have thought. Gritstone (and some county sandstone)is the only world class bouldering the UK has, end of story.
 That's not to say there isn't excellent bouldering on the other rock types, but world class....
If we are going to be retrospective, just re-read my original remark and think I ought to revise it.
 By most criteria I think there are probably world class problems dotted about all over the UK on many different rock types. But in my opinion the gritstone if treated as one entity represents the only world class 'area'. That said the grit is well complemented by the huge diversity of alternative rock types catering for other styles and seasons.

a dense loner

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it's only doylo that's switzerland. stop backtracking

Nibile

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as a foreigner heres my 2p:
ive only bouldered on uk grit, and i love it.
nonetheless the limestone (summer) bouldering with the mega hard eliminates has a great appeal on me. i think for me its just the love for the moves.
sorry if this post sounds stupid, or not hitting the point.

Doylo

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Switzerland i may be but a fool i'm not!

cofe

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Ah-ha, hoist by his own petard at last! Long have I waited for this day.
Quote
....perfectly good apple....
And thus he is revealled as the true apple lover he always was. A sneaky coveter of mine crisp green fruit, cowering in dark corners with the loathsome citrus. See how his burning forbidden lust for the pear makes him giddy for a moment, giddy enough to spill the appley truth!

what can i say. i was caught between iraq and a hard place. i do worry about you getting scurvy though gooseboy with your citrus aversion.

as an aside, i rate my trumpeter swan would smash wallop your pink-footed goose in a one-on-one. gooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooose.

Bonjoy

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I think you'll find it's a Bean Goose not a Pink Footed. Easy mistake to make though. Just so you don't get mixed up again:
 It is a fairly large goose with a size of 72-90cm (28-35in). Generally dark in appearance with a distinctive dark brown head. (similar to Pinkfoot but much larger) The forewing and underwing are both dark. The bills vary quite a bit with orange and black being the dominant features. Varying amounts of white from none to all around the face can be seen. The most striking feature of the bird is its orange legs in the adult, and pale yellowish in juveniles.  It is often quoted as being a silent goose but when heard flighting to or from the roost there is a fair clamour of noise.

Idol eyes

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I wish i knew what you are on about BumToy!

Pantontino

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Back on topic goose fans...

as a foreigner heres my 2p:
ive only bouldered on uk grit, and i love it.
nonetheless the limestone (summer) bouldering with the mega hard eliminates has a great appeal on me. i think for me its just the love for the moves.
sorry if this post sounds stupid, or not hitting the point.

Nibile, you should try some North Wales limestone - it is not seasonal or particularly weather dependent (when the grit is wet, it'll be dry, when the grit is too warm and greasy, it'll be cool) and the problems are not eliminates (we do like our links though, so bring your stamina bags). Despite what Bonjoy said earlier in this thread there are actually very few chipped holds (unlike many of the best Yorkshire grit crags) and virtually no glued ones. In places there is a problem with polish (good crags inevitably become popular), but at least the holds aren't wearing away like they are at Bowden, the Kebs etc.


Nibile

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this sounds very interesting.
would be nice to pack the van with a couple of crashpads, the longboard and wetsuit, and see what comes out from a summer trip!!!

besides, i really cant go on like this, thinking about climbing/surfing trips the whole fucking day.

Blunk

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sorry if this post sounds stupid, or not hitting the point.

As fowl as this thread has been I wouldn't worry about not hitting the point!  ;)

BenF

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i really cant go on like this, thinking about climbing/surfing trips the whole fucking day.

Why not?  Surely everyone spends pretty much all their weekday time thinking about climbing.

Fiend

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If Nibile makes it to North Wales, anyone who gets him to The Cave instead of Ogwen / The Pass / Ysgo etc, well I hope Houdini is prepared to whip them with an inch of their lives. It's not like somewhere like Jerry's Roof, Sheep Pen, Bustach etc are lacking in burl...

BenF

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If Nibile makes it to North Wales, anyone who gets him to The Cave instead of Ogwen / The Pass / Ysgo etc, well I hope Houdini is prepared to whip them with an inch of their lives. It's not like somewhere like Jerry's Roof, Sheep Pen, Bustach etc are lacking in burl...

Well said that man. 

Although if Nibile has the time to get to the Cave once he's been round the mountains and Porth Ysgo, I'm sure he'll have fun.  Obviously he'll be making sure he visits Angel Bay at some point (we really need a fishing rod or baiting sign on UKB).

Danny

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Wading in with my two pence, I'd have to mostly agree with Mr Panton, although I can't say that I'm overly fond of the cave - being a weak punter

"World Class"- a subjective, personal and consequently emotive term, that much is evident on this thread.

For me Porth Ysgo wins, hands down. This is not just down to the high concentration of fine bouldering (there's much more than most people are aware of at this point); in fact it’s not really down to this at all.

The many days I’ve spent here climbing, alone or with friends, larking about, relaxing and just enjoying being in such a stunning and generally tranquil place have conspired to plant Porth Ysgo on my own best place in the world pedestal.

I don’t want or need to be objective about this.

Whilst we’re in the general subject area, I currently live in the Kendal area and it great from a climbing point of view, but it’s simply shit compared to living in North Wales – this area is surely a microcosm of pretty much every conceivable style of climbing available in the UK, in one succinct, economically impoverished package.

There’s even Grit.

I do love climbing on Grit, but if I had to choose a ‘desert island area’ then its North Wales all the way, baby.

 

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