[Bonjoy]

How hard is this supposed to be in new money, it gets E2 6c in route guide. Shed loads harder than Sulky Little Boy, so would have thought it must be at least 7b?
 Beta anyone? I could get a few moves up the RH side in various different ways but couldn't find a way to transfer to other side of arete and wasn't sure at what level you switched round.

[Doylo]

Gets 7b dunnit, can't remember the beta sorry but only Ry did it when we were there (and there were some grit wads trying it). Tricky little number

[Johnny Brown]

7b+ really, feels almost 7c if you do it properly, ie to the top without the big pocket around the corner.
You don't really switch sides, on the right then face on-ish
Basically its a very balancy layback move, key is right foot high on the obvious smear, left foot heelhook just above it. Not too bad once you get it but has taken many scalps...

[Bonjoy]

Ahhhhhhhh, now he sees. I was using the obvious smear with LF and trying to avoid the barndoor by toeing down on small edges out right.

[Paul B]

aha, There is some weird pressing to be had here bonjoy, when the time comes to transfer from the RHS to FRONT ON you can slap your RH with your thumb pointing down to stop the swing, and then you can really stand on that left foot. Was shown this method by Ian cummins (think he did the direct originally).The direct finish IS considerably harder and i believe sulky little boys has settled at a lower grade now, think lay-by arete is around 7b by consensus.
Did you do the two overhung aretes around the middle of the crag? theyre awesome.

[Bonjoy]

 Have done those on a previous visit if they are the ones I think you mean.

[moose]

Does the best sequence for lay-by arete involve a RF toe-hook move under one of the flakes out on the RHS ? Sort of dynamically catching it as the RH leaves for a higher side-pull/flake (LH and LH on arete)?   Or was I being mischeviously mislead by a mendacious man? 

[Johnny Brown]

I was using the obvious smear with LF and trying to avoid the barndoor by toeing down on small edges out right.

Does the best sequence for lay-by arete involve a RF toe-hook move under one of the flakes out on the RHS ? Sort of dynamically catching it as the RH leaves for a higher side-pull/flake (LH and LH on arete)?

These sequences doesn't work, or at least I've never seen anyone manage to make them work.

when the time comes to transfer from the RHS to FRONT ON you can slap your RH with your thumb pointing down to stop the swing, and then you can really stand on that left foot.

Dunno how that works, I've never found that bit hard, always though the move before was the crux...
I'd post some pictures if I knew how to work FTP in Windows XP... 

[Jim]

download filezilla word

[Johnny Brown]

That's what I used to use in 98, couldn't see an xp version on the moz site... I'll look again.

edit - I see it has nothing to do with mozilla