[SA Chris]

Decided to get one for winter training, after another depressing session at FB's last night. Having read all the rave reviews about the Moon, I tried one out in the shop, and I reckon its just too hard for me, as I couldn't even hang on half the holds. I know you can improve quickly etc, but I don't see myself ever getting that much better and avoiding injuries at the same time. If that does ever happen, I will happily sell it on and get a Moon, but I'm being realistic.

So what is the best current ones to look at? I assume most are under the £100 mark?

Opine please esteemed gentlemen.

[a dense loner]

i would seriously consider the moon one chris. it forces you to use the holds instead of playing about. don't worry about the crimps if they're too small at the moment. it really is surprising how quickly you get used to the board

[Johnny Brown]

Surely the problem with fingerboards is how quickly you get bored? (excuse the pun)
Can't you make you're own version, say same width x three times the height vertically, that you could actually do moves on?

[SA Chris]

i would seriously consider the moon one chris. it forces you to use the holds instead of playing about. don't worry about the crimps if they're too small at the moment. it really is surprising how quickly you get used to the board

As I said, I have tried one out and I really don't think I would do it justice. I could just about deadhang 3 of the holds. Maybe not designed for 13 stone and 6ft plus with fat fingers?

[Scouse D]

The Bleaustone board is good.They're the guys who carved the moon one too.

[Paul B]

Surely the problem with fingerboards is how quickly you get bored? (excuse the pun)
Can't you make you're own version, say same width x three times the height vertically, that you could actually do moves on?

Why? deadhanging is deadhanging its for a specific purpose, for contact strength go and campus although I guess a home made board with a rung at the top and the bottom may be good for touches and prolong the period before boredom kicks in but im not so sure.
My vote would be for the moon board too, yes I can see the small crimps seeming a bit grim at first but you will improve quickly and it has all the correct holds without a load of useless crap attached to distract you. The crimps are by far the most comfortable ive ever found on a fingerboard as well. With regard to the bleastone one, its just too slick, I personally wouldnt want to risk hanging anything small with the possibility of randomly slipping. Same with the holds, absoloutely fantastic shapes but the texture is too fine, doesn't take long for them to sweat up, i'll be interested to see how they cope in the foundry.

[SA Chris]

Will check out the bleaustone one.

JB, the plan was to build a proper woodie at the end of the garage over the winter, but realistically with holidays, DIY, and life draining financial resources, I don't think it will realistically happen this winter, so looking at something a bit lower budget.

[Johnny Brown]

I get bored before getting tired doing pull-ups let alone deadhangs. If I put up a fingerboard on it own I'd never use it, I'd need something I could do moves on. I doubt it would take much longer to do than put up a fingerboard, and you could choose the holds.

[Nibile]

the one and only
nibbys board

say basic...

[squeek]

Nice board (photo makes it look slabby though!)

[Nibile]

what does slabby mean in this case?

[dontfollowme]

what does slabby mean in this case?

It means not vertical \

[Nibile]

oh, ok.

[Paul B]

is that a fingerboard nibile? or is it a foot on board? i can't figure out how big it is from the pic 

[dobbin]

You appear to have a massive pinch strip thing in the middle of the board. Are you stuart cameron? (this is a tenuous reference to an extremely strong ex climber who could hang a rubbish wooden pinch) how wide is it dude?

[Paul B]

get a load of this fingerboard, complete with weirdo greenness from udini.com

[Nibile]

so,
its a fingerboard AND a foot on board. it stands on metal support. roughly 2 feet from the wall, where theres attached a sort of step, at 2 feet from floor.
the board is 1x1 meters.

if i have to train endurance, i use it with feet on, doing some kind of traverses, lockoffs, reaches, that simulate climbing in overhangs (i used to do 5 minutes, then 5 minutes rest, for four or five times). that was the only case i could hang the infamous pinch, that is around 2 cm wide.

now i only use it as a normal fingerboard, but having it far from the wall is very useful for dynos.

[bikerboy]

A big fan of the tailor made Heath Robinson approach  (no offence intended)

Can I ask a couple of questions:

1) Would I be right in thinking that the board is a mock up derived from a couple of offcuts of some old kitchen worktop (me thinks I have some of that lying around too)?
2) How have you secured the holds - the picture is deceptive and looks like they are secured with fairly sizeable bolts that have the bolt heads proud of the hold as opposed to flush with it (recessed)?
3) When you cut in the finger holds - did you sand and seal the cut surface?

Thanks for any answers you can supply - getting al excited now about a weekend in the garage.

Cheers


Mart

[Nibile]

youre basically right in everything.

1) the board is make with some kind of kitchen furniture i had for free as they were trash.
2)the bolts are put with the head a bit out of the hold surface, but you dont notice it, and anyway in the smaller holds ive put screws instead of bolts, so that they are flat with the hold surface. but i think that with bigger holds its safer to go with bolts.
3) if you refer to the holes, the bidoigts and slopers, i didnt really cut them, i used some kind of grinder, and then i finished with sandpaper but didnt seal anything, cos that kind of wooden furniture gives good friction

[bikerboy]

Grrreat - it's out with the power tools then!

Thanks for the quick response.


Mart

[fatdoc]

just for the record - i got a moon board y'day (cheap- last one in the shop ex demo ). was a bit of an impluse purchase, having been washed of higgar and finding myself in a climbing shop with a credit card...

put it up (really easy cos of multiple screw holes) and thought, God i'll never hang on most of that.... had a session on it and it's really damn good. i cant do much on the smallest crimpers but otherwise it's really usable from the outset and doesnt seems to grease up easily.

recommended.

[BD]

a little bump but has anybody ever used a metolius simulator? it looks ok although it only has one big sloper (ok two, one for each hand). if you really wanna have a slopy edge you can probably just take it that way no?

secondly i was wondering if a campusboard is that much better then a fingerboard. i don't have the place for a real campusboard but the problem is you can't do any moves on a fingerboard. because of this you can't train the coordination between your hands when doing reaches and dyno's. would it be enough to do deadhangs(/pull-ups?) as a training or maybe little circuits on the fingerboard?

BD

[Dr T]

a little bump but has anybody ever used a metolius simulator? it looks ok although it only has one big sloper (ok two, one for each hand). if you really wanna have a slopy edge you can probably just take it that way no?

the big rounder slopers are pretty good for open hand strength, then theres the flat 40 deg'ish slopers which are murder on the wrists but good once you can use them, my only real problem with the board (I've had one for a couple of years) is that it's too wide so some of the pull ups feel a bit over stretched, but that's just a personal thing I guess..

[BD]

any thoughts about this one from axis? it's from holland so i guess nobody in the uk has ever used it but it looks ace. it has probably the same type of holds as the moonboard and you dont really need pockets to be able to train that way.

if you check out the site you can also see the bigger version.
http://www.axisroundedges.com/nl/specials.php?set=3

BD

[account_inactive]

I think there is one at the works, though it might have been taken down now. 

The Metolius ones and the Moon fingerboards are better IMHO

[Dr T]

you gonna be making one dylan???????????

[a dense loner]

they do have one at the works, pretty good but i prefer the moon one. they come in a good second

[Somebody's Fool]

they come in a good second

I've heard the same about you.

[a dense loner]

don't believe all you hear

[fatdoc]

Handbags at dawn then ladies??

give eachother a big


go on, you know you want it

[Somebody's Fool]

I'm not kissing him.  Give it a sixtieth of a minute and he'll have created a mess in his Y-fronts.  Then a dense 'carbon footprint' loner will have to drive to Chadderton to get his poor mother to wash them.  For the sake of our planet, I'm happy for this animosity to remain.

[fatdoc]

that's a fair point.

i thought he wore boxers....

however, that was in a previous relationship.... at least the poor lad's still got his mother to help out such times of need.

BTW... in an utterly vain attempt to steer this thread back to the topic..

my moon board is still on the biz, and is soo skin friendly that I can use it the day after a full cheese grater skin loss day out on the grit. It does live in the garage, so no heat at all - but doesnt grease up even with spooge flowing from my sore little tips. Best thing Moon has ever made (= with the chalk bucket thingie IMO)

[a dense loner]

you guys...
will see you sat night, not you fatdoc you've more babies to make.