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Crimping. (Read 15883 times)

SA Chris

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#50 Re: Crimping.
October 17, 2006, 08:29:52 am
Truth hurts  :shrug:

So do crimps.

Not as much as failure.

So the most pain comes from failing on something crimpy?

Yes, especially if fail because you were trying not to crimp on a crimp hold, due to trying to follow the brash advice of someone much stronger than you.

r-man

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#51 Re: Crimping.
October 20, 2006, 12:24:50 am
Watch the crimping hand wobble about when he hits the top. Thats a lot of force going through those small bones...

http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/video.html?id=earl__sloping_beauty&n=0

Really can't be healthy. Better than jamming, mind.  ;)

Houdini

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#52 Re: Crimping.
October 20, 2006, 08:52:57 am
It's not the size of the crimp that's important, it's the amount of positivity on the crimp that makes a difference for me.  Crimping can be as subtle as using slopes: sometimes you can have all fingers and thumb on a hold but only be pulling down through 1 or 2 fingers.  I usually just fuck-off the ring and pinky and pull through the index, middle and thumb.

 

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