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Chipping in Peak (Read 4104 times)

Johnny Brown

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Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 12:34:55 pm
Check out:

Wall left of Slingshot, Froggatt - new problem? Extremely suspicious looking crimp

Rollerwall, Burbage South - again, an extremely suspicious brand new crimp...

Slingshot, Burbage South - lowest foothold looks like it has been wire brushed producing a tell-tale orange edge.

As is sadly usual this time of year there also seems to be a lot of 'over-cleaning' going on at the mo... If it's bright green give it a scrub with a WOOD-BRISTLED (scrubbing) brush then RETURN ON A DRIER DAY. Do not expect to be able to make the route/ problem climbable there and then.

a dense loner

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#1 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 03:12:50 pm
what is slingshot at burb south?

wall left of slingshot was very well cleaned last year

Paz

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#2 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 03:32:39 pm
The thing I never understand is slingshot get's the big grade but it's been repeated by someone who says he's not good at bouldering and then went all the way to the top, and everyone else says it's piss, that they can pull on so it's not hard, etc. 

But to the right, has anyone repeated Chequer's Groove?  I can remember when it was in the mags at 7c!

Is this thing to the left the old " Seb's " project, which got squeezed about on that wall by new things being done (CG + SS) before he did his.

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#3 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 04:01:29 pm
well guys if you are worried about (chipping) or damage rock then you just need to look at all the fire damage that has been done around the area over the summer.

eatswood has been one of these with demise of holds from the trav. James P's problem from last year and also Hats for weasel.

Sorry have photos on phone which James has seen but my phone is not compatible with my computer.

Other that I know have been affected are the Tor, Roach Abbey, Pleasely Vale, RHS to name but a few.

We should also look at the way in which we as climbers/boulder's use the crag.

I know of a venue which is now under threat of being banned due to 20 people going there at the same time, when access was unclear.

tony.s

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#4 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 04:08:33 pm
Slingshot is the thing that traverses out of David and round to the top of Goliath. He might have meant Samson, common first letter and all....

Paz

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#5 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 04:25:11 pm
Quote

I know of a venue which is now under threat of being banned due to 20 people going there at the same time, when access was unclear.


Craig David all over your -boink-.

What have the nobhead's done to roach abbey?

Bonjoy

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#6 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 04:49:02 pm
 If this is CD you are refering to Tony, it was more like ten/twelve, not twenty. The large number was due to friends texting friends on a very wet Sunday when everywhere (literally) was wet, not due to large numbers being directly 'invited'. IIRC I only directly mentioned to about two people I was going that day. It's a free country (not free enough obviously), what can you do...?

 I'd heard two holds at eatswood had broke. You reckon fire damage? Makes sense given it's an obvious bivvy cave near a residential centre for demented scallys. They didn't seem like the sort of holds which could be pulled off by normal use and there where no reported signs of tools/chipping. Any sign of the main missing hold for gluing back?

Ru

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#7 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 05:37:48 pm
What's gone at eatswood? Is Westwood/Hats for Youth's still doable? I was psyched for that.

What's the issue at the Tor? Was there today and didn't notice anything amiss.

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 05:49:20 pm
The start hold on Westwood/Hats For Youths has snapped off and gone awol. The start will be different and harder. The logical start position might now be a bit lower too. The trav is probably a fair bit harder too, as that hold is key for the crux. One of the crimps on the end (2nd crux) of the trav has also snapped. heard this from Dave and haven't seen the damage yet myself.

Ru

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#9 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 06:00:56 pm
Shit. That's a real shame. Someone must have the hold/know about it though. Even if fire damage did weaken it I presume it fell off with someone pulling on it?

Falling Down

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#10 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 06:11:41 pm
What's gone at eatswood? Is Westwood/Hats for Youth's still doable? I was psyched for that.

What's the issue at the Tor? Was there today and didn't notice anything amiss.

I think Fashionguru is referring to the amateur tree felling and fires in the earlier part of the Summer - Martin and I got there one morning (sometime in May IIRC) and the ashes were still smoldering, broken glass and tinnies everywhere.  Two other guys out bouldering helped us clear up and we took two bin-bags of bottles and stuff home.

Johnny Brown

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#11 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 06:58:25 pm
Yes I meant Samson, sorry. Looks to me like someone has basically wire-brushed a new/ bigger foothold

nic mullin

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#12 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 07:59:49 pm
There's some other stuff at burbage south that has been (relatively) recently suffered breakage/chipping. The ones I've noticed are:

Talk to me martin - the right hand starting crimp (that was chipped in the late nineties i think) has now broken or crumbled on the left (index finger) side. This now feels harder - don't know how much, just that i could do it before and can't now - anyone done this since it broke?

Slab left of pock man - the dishes on this have got steadily bigger since ~2003 and have only continued to get bigger as they tend to do once the top layer is gone. The higher pock mark appeared from a tiny, natural dish (not a bullet hole) and is too high up be due to damage from dirty shoes (i.e. it's chipping not erosion).

I know that a couple of chipped holds on the most trashed boulder anywhere pales into insignificance with the other atrocities in the peak (and burbage south for that matter) but we can't let the bastards think they've got away with it.

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#13 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 08:26:23 pm
i dont want to be toooo much of a devils advocate here but is most of this not just erosion / overuse (not including the chipped holds now breaking from frost/thaw)

i've just "come home" to climbing after a 4 year layoff and so far i've not seen any new chipped holds...

I'm not saying that it's not happening - but there could be a element of paranoia as well... holds do sometimes corrode with time.

I'm certainly not condoneing the practice either.... was trying to explain why chipping was sooo bad to a non climber the other day... they didnt get it until it was made clear that most boulderers would consider the crime as heinous as kiddy fiddling and people would try to hunt them down if a famous problem was desecrated.

dave

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#14 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 08:46:19 pm
The start hold on Westwood/Hats For Youths has snapped off and gone awol. The start will be different and harder. The logical start position might now be a bit lower too. The trav is probably a fair bit harder too, as that hold is key for the crux. One of the crimps on the end (2nd crux) of the trav has also snapped. heard this from Dave and haven't seen the damage yet myself.

when I went to eatswood a few weeks ago I found the 2 holds broken, with the exposed rock being very sandy and crumbly. This has since been treated with a sealant agent and a week later it seemed to be holding up okay - might need an eye keeping on it. I would be extremely surprised if this was anything to do with fire damage. I don't remember seeing any fire remains under those holds, or any char-blackened rock. In fact I don't remember seeing any noticable fire remains anywhere at the crag. I would have thought it much more likely that they just broke being used for footholds by climbers, possibly when damp, what with them both being quite stickey-outey holds.

The hold at the start of westwood is now about a half-pad thick, but to be honest i feels better to use the bit just right of the scar, this is what I used on the traverse. The pockety hold on the lip at HFW is less positive but still pretty good (doubt it would notch HFW up to 7c though). I don't know if the traverse is harder enough to move the grade up, since i never pulled on it before the breakages. with the hold in place I could probably have done it in 1 session instead of having to go back for it though. after summer months not touching grit i can't say what grade it felt to me, only that i think its one of the best problems on grit, nevermind best traverse, even with the holds broken.

As for access problems at dodgy crags, I would have thought taking a very loud barking dog to eatswood not an outstanding move - this comment is not directed to any tony simpson in particular.  ;)

JB you got any photos of these new holds?

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#15 Re: Chipping in Peak
October 23, 2006, 09:12:39 pm
Quote
I know of a venue which is now under threat of being banned due to 20 people going there at the same time, when access was unclear.
tony.s

interesting quote tony considering you've been blabbing to people about another "secret crag" with very delicate access issues, especially as increased popularity of said area cud cause issues that make a good friends working life more difficult!
please if yor gonna tell anybody else about this place, check with ya mate first as hes put the groundwork in and actually has something to loose (aside from the pleasure of climbing there).

 

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