[tom]

when i first started bouldering i bought my peak bouldering guide like most people, read it far too much, and decided that banana finger direct was one of the problems to aspire to do. This was a couple of years ago now and i still havent done it, despite doing a lot of climbing a regulary dragging myself up v6/7 and spending far too much time working it i still can't reach the first break. all pearls of wisdom welcome except for the one involving knee bars what ever ape like beings may be able to reach the break with one in i'm not one of them. there must be a short persons method please

[mozzer]

i was trying this the other day, and while I only spent 10 minutes on it got reasonably close to getting the break.

Not convinced this was the correct way (i do about v3/v4 normally) but this is what i was doing; left hand banana hold, right hand crimping on small pinch.

Right foot onto slab onto obivous small foothold, left foot up and left onto slab too. By now almost have a knee bar with the right leg.

Then sort of pop up with right hand for hold in break, using the little bits to the left as an intermediate.

Im 5'10 so not ape like, not a positive ape index and can almost hold the break hold.

Thats as far as i got though. Hope this helps, probably not...

Good luck!

[hongkongstuey]

that sounds about right - it can't be that hard for the grade as it was my first ever uk tech 6b - i seem to recall getting a full on knee bar with my right leg, holds you in place pretty well as you reach up

[hongkongstuey]

found these for you

[fatboySlimfast]

right all you tall bastards can fuk off with yur beta cos its useless!
If ur not reaching break cos you cant reach ur in for some fun!!!! I did this problem a week and half ago for first time, I first did banana finger normal in late 80's so you can guess how long ive tried the direct on and off for. Could never reach the thin hold in break, was always two inches off.
Left hand gaston on TOP section of sidepull, right hand crimp. Left foot smear(obvious) right foot obvious smear on upper section of slab (dont bother knee bar, it stops u reaching further!!) rock over to reach cluster of fuked pebbles (used to very positive not any more though!!) to the left and down of break.  at this point jump ur left foot up, u cant see it but it'll catch on something, and pull into ur left shoulder. you should be able to snatch into the break, its interesting to catch cos u only normally get it with two fingers. readjust on it puul up, left foot pebble rock to big break, simple eh! Only took me 14 years

[Norton Sharley]

I'm with you fatboy, use the pebbles, pull like fuck and not V3/4  :

[hongkongstuey]

I did this problem a week and half ago for first time

and for all these years i actually thought you were a half decent climber mate - god, you pulled the wool over our eyes didn't you - like i said, my first 6b (after about a year and half of climbing), not that hard, well, not if you're tall any way..........................

[dave]

Mozzer, i do it with the knee bar just like dangerous is doing in that photo, but then again i've got the length :wink: . When Dangerous did it i dont actually think he used to put the kneebar in at all, just put his knee in the same zipcode as the jam and pulled through, he was brutal.

I belive some people use some kind of gash undercutting with the right hand, but frankly that kind of faggottry just blows.

[mozzer]

fuck that for a game of soldiers.

Beefcake it up, thats what i say.

Next time im up there i'll show it whos boss.

Boom yakasha. Feels OK so I reckon, in the words of Waynes World, "she will be mine. Oh yes, she WILL be mine"