[Will Hunt]

I was recently informed that the reason the grades are so ridiculous at Pex (and the reason that so many routes are given boulder grades rather than the trad grades they need [imo]) was because Johnny Dawes did a lot of stuff there and went a bit daft on the grading. True? Which routes are his?

Would also like those who have done Monoblock to be named and shamed for not upgrading it when V10 is clearly undergraded (methinks. although of course Ive never been on the route, the style of move required on the size of hold at the place its at surely constitutes more than V10)

[Scouse D]

V10/ 7c+ is hard. Monoblock is hard. It shouldn't be upgraded though. Most people who call for an upgrade ain't gonna climb V10 anywhere.

Also, I don't think any of the routes are Johnnys and the guy who told you was bullshitting.

[Will Hunt]

He did have a brandy glass in hand at the time but Im sure any half truths/no truths were unintentional as hes a good guy.

[andy popp]

Someone was spinning you a yarn on Johnny. Only time he's been to my knowledge was the morning after my fortieth and performances were none too hot. V10 for Monoblock is an upgrade. I thought it was 7b+ (doh!) and was chuffed to take the 7c+ suggested by the likes of Pete Chadwick and Steve Dunning. As Scouse says, V10 is hard, we tend to forget this when 8bs are seemingly getting sent every day

[squeek]

when V10 is clearly undergraded (methinks. although of course Ive never been on the route)

These aren't the kind of comments that lead to grades being accurate.  Leave your grading opinions until you've done it, or you've climbed lots of other problems at that level but can't do it.  You could have at least actually tried it!

[andy popp]

Was just wondering why Monoblock receives so much discussion. There's another thread running on UKC at the mo and a search here reveals numerous mentions - they're not even all from Will and Andy F. I thought it was just a local route for local people.

[Bonjoy]

It's a meme thing
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Meme

[Idol eyes]

In my day, it was given 7A. This to my mind is a little to much, but as with all great problems the numbers are all but ego massage, so given the nature of the movement and quality, the credit goes to the FA onist the Shaun Ryder of the climbing world, Joe.

[Will Hunt]

Bit of a mythical problem really. For such a small venue I think that having such a seldom repeated route is quite something. Most outsiders find Pex a handfull (or rather a crimpful) when they visit so Monoblock, the pinnacle of the Pex style, must seem like an impossibility.

It does annoy me how Monoblock gets a boulder grade when surely something akin to E8 (no mats) is more appropriate. Of course I cant be bandying around grades as I have no idea what the route feels like but 7a technicality, no gear but good landing has to get pretty high up in the E grades. For example Piece of Mind is a trad graded although almost everyone uses mats so I dont see why MB isnt trad graded. Part of the Pex appeal I guess.

[andy popp]

Will, I respect and welcome your enthusiasm for Pex but I think your relative lack of experience, especially of other areas, (and this really isn't meant as a criticism) somewhat affects your perspective. Everything from the start of Lady Jane wall to Monoblock is bouldering, albeit increasingly highball. I did MB ground up without mats and it simply isn't E8 (admittedly I didn't do the final easy few feet because they were dripping, but they wouldn't change anything). You also have to remember the old sandstone ethic of either top-rope or solo, no leading, and thus technical grades only. Virtually all Pex routes were originally top-roped, though not with the express intention of being led. The far end of Lady Jane wall (possibly) and Staminade/Black Magic walls (obviously) are definitely not bouldering.

I think you're only just round the corner from me, you'll have to come round to the board sometime

[Will Hunt]

hehe. Thanks for the advice. You are right of course. I probably have some twisted view of the route because its relatively unrepeated. Probably wouldnt be able to manage anything on your board! I cant climb indoors 
Pex is wet at the moment though...

[Will Hunt]

Ha! Just got a text from Andi_e saying
"An idea for a fancy dress party. Go as monoblock and just wear a piece of plywood".

Like it.

[Andy F]

Better still, paint it a pale green with a few darker stripes... 

[andy_e]

Ha! Just got a text from Andi_e saying
"An idea for a fancy dress party. Go as monoblock and just wear a piece of plywood".

Like it.

Haha, yes. I may have been was a little very drunk.

[Andy F]

[/quote]

Haha, yes. I may have been was a little very drunk.
[/quote]

Good to see your settling well into life at Uni 

[andy_e]

you knows it. I have the internet now an' all!