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Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse (Read 12190 times)

unclesomebody

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#25 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 02, 2006, 12:19:08 pm
sorry to hijack this thread. But when you are trying for a first ascent on a piece of rock with a lack of logical belay points is there a minimum pitch length? I ask because if you were a stupid fool (like myself) you would extrapolate this backwards and for a FA you would simply be required to have climbed every move individually and voila! You have the first ascent. I know this is ridiculous, but I'm only asking because I don't know what the normal precedent is when you climb big things!

Bonjoy

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#26 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 02, 2006, 12:39:33 pm
 It's up to the person doing the FA. Some routes don't have ideal/logical places to take a belay. As long as they are clear in the way they write up the ascent the FA decides. Often subsequent ascentionists will combine pitches, often this makes for better route eg The Prow at the Tor, originaly done as 7b,7b,7c, now more usually done as one long 7c+.
 I imagine if someone pushed the rule by splitting say a straightline 20m pitch into two or more pitches for no justifiable reason, this would technically be an ascent but would rightly be ridiculed as a copout and history would note the first person to climb the pitch as one. If the FA was very non sensical and on a significant line I dare say consensus might consider the route unascended until linked as one. It is not totally black and white but I don't think it's too hard to see where to draw the line in 99% of cases.
 As it happens I have done a new multi-pitch route, but have yet to do it all in one day and I want to combine two of the pitches to make a more logical and challenging route. I could legitimately claim the route now, but i am holding back on claiming it until I have done it the way I'd like.

unclesomebody

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#27 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 02, 2006, 12:54:00 pm

Huffy

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#28 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 02, 2006, 05:22:27 pm

dobbin

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#29 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 02, 2006, 06:45:41 pm
Huffys back!  :o

Bonjoy

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#30 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 03, 2006, 09:31:05 am
Morning Uri

Johnny Brown

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#31 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 03, 2006, 10:12:01 am
Coefield not looking too well there... loving Uri Huffer's jumper.

Huffy

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#32 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 03, 2006, 11:40:52 am
Huffys back!  :o

only for the crack mate.

Hi to all you psyched cats i aint seen for ages.

a dense loner

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#33 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 03, 2006, 08:41:40 pm


uncle you're being a cock!

have him huff

cofe

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#34 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 03, 2006, 08:48:08 pm
every bloody photo he does...

unclesomebody

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#35 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 03, 2006, 09:40:44 pm
Dense, you're in trouble, because huffy and I are fighting alongside each other these days... you're going to have to find someone else to carry out your dirty work...





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#36 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 04, 2006, 11:39:11 am
C'mon Keith, if you're going to rip pics from our private collection, why not use the shots from lastnights rumble (you's on the right):

Fiend

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#37 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 04, 2006, 12:28:40 pm
Can just see the wisps of the mullet there too...

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#38 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 13, 2006, 02:25:24 am
Glad to see that this panned out in my favour in the end.  I never tried to hide that this wasn't a perfect ascent (the 8 goes was a hint).  Anyone who's been to Hobson Moor could verify that the belay stances I picked weren't random (you could happily camp on them if prepared), but i am personally happy with the ascent considering the effort it took. 

Somebody's Fool

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#39 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 13, 2006, 02:37:18 am
Having accompanied enigma on one of his attempts at this classic line I am willing to justify his siege tactics. For starters, the cave at the end of the crux pitch was filthy. 

I had an attempt at leading this pitch.  Worried was not the word.  Friends tucked behind dubious blocks did not inspire me to push on to the 6a moves that would lead me to safety.  I personally think that enigmas abseiling antics to clean this section were more than justified.

On the issue of belays.  The belay before this bastion of British girdling was the only logical stopping place.  The fact that it was E2 max to reach this point warranted the fact that subsequent attempts could be started from this stance.

I'm just gutted that it wasn't the attempt that I was on was the one that resulted in completion of this route.  We started from the very start, and the first 2/3 pitches are an absolute delight. Well worth doing.

enigma

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#40 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 13, 2006, 02:41:49 am
I don't know wether to spit or swallow you toad.  As concerns the F. A. list you're on it with everyone else so don't worry.

Somebody's Fool

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#41 Re: Hobson Moor Girdle Traverse
October 13, 2006, 03:19:08 am
Jesus wept.  You try and do someone a favour and they throw it back in your face.  Thats the last time I write a post with someone dictating it to me as I write. Cheeky fucker.

 

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