It seems to me that hold types indoors differ substantially from the usual outdoor breaks, flakes, slopers and crimpers etc. After all, if I had a magic *rock* wand that could turn an indoor wall into the beloved stone, it would look nothing like anything you'd find outside. For one thing, on many (if not most) wooden holds/bolt-ons, you can get your thumb on and pinch to a degree, which helps you pull into the wall making them more positive requiring less gut strength to keep your feet on, than if you couldn't. Most edges indoors you can get your thumb on the side, and quite a few of the slopey holds can be pinched on the sides or thumbed underneath. I'm pretty sure all this thumbing around can't be done more often than not at the crags or boulders. So some of the boulder problems I've set at the cellar I train in are *thumbs off* unless stated (obvious pinching hold.) When I'm just open handing or crimping down on these holds, it feels much harder and more like the outdoors, requiring more body tension that the usual 'grab and pull' type problems. What do you think?
Any other ideas? Perhaps background soundtracks of sheep in the distance and the distinct jingle jangle sound of a bumblies overly laden rack?