[nathan wind]

Had a quick go on this at the end of the day yesterday.. felt ok, but just wanted to know if the crack to the left is in or out? The guide says its out, yet on Ben Moons site there's a clip of him using it for his left hand and foot. Didn't seem like it'd be 7C with crack, but dunno? Can anyone clear this up??

[Paul B]

By the looks of it he only uses it to pull on with, I think the hardest move is the last and his foot's just flagging by this point.

[dave]

as far as i know the crack is out. thats how i've always seen it tried and tried it myself. its bizarre that moony uses it in those videos. you'd think "wall right of the crack" aught not to use the crack, or it'd just be "climb the crack". won't help you on the crux move but if it helps you get the small pocket in more control then its all going to add up. if you use the crack its just a bad sequence on a 5b problem, i.e. a non problem. people will be using that crack on strawberries next.

[north_country_boy]

Tried this a few weeks ago, initially with the crack and then without (after seeing Moon Video) It is considerably harder without the crack and from the description this must be out!! True it doesn't make the crux easier but it makes the start piss!

[Andy Harris]

Originally it didn't use the crack and for sure it's harder not to use it. Whether it makes a change in grade I'm not too sure but at most it's half a grade easier. The last move is the crux and you can either stretch off the low foot hold or do a high rock over with a right foot on the slab.

[Jim]

intresting, where on the slab do you put the foot for the rock over? by your right hand?

[a dense loner]

he doesn't use the crack, he uses the hold next to the crack, if you want to be pedantic you could say that this is the crack but it's not. also the foothold is not the crack either, that too is just to the right. you're basically pulling on a hold with your left, as in not laying away on a crack. as andy says it's the last move thats hard

[dave]

its as much the crack as the rest of the crack is. if that ain't the crack then the crack problem doesn't use the crack either!

[a dense loner]

hmm yes, expected an answer like that from someone who can comfortably reach the first hold. i use this and it's just as hard as going off the undercut only much more pleasant. ie it's not a hard move any way it's done. i then put my left foot on the horizontal hold which eminates from the crack, which isn't the crack. we can go round this crack issue all day

[Paz]

The crack problem definitely uses as little of the crack as possible.  Play Hard also uses as little of the crack as possible.