[Pantontino]

New Slate guide and re-equipping campaign

This has been briefly covered in a thread on UKC, but in case you didn't catch that:


http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=178

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=179

[squeek]

How much slate is fully bolted as sports routes? 

[Pantontino]

There are quite few conventional clip ups, particularly in the harder grades, but typically a route will have one or two bolts with some sizeable run outs.

It's minimalist bolting 80s style, except that on some routes the insitu gear is so corroded that the designer-danger element has just become unjustifiable. The routes were put up in the 'run out' fashion, partly to add an element of character and excitement, but also because the average new router in Llanberis back then was a skint dole boy who could barely afford to clothe himself in manky lycra tights, never mind shell out for a box full of bolts.

The re-equipping plan is 'like for like', with some improvement of single bolt belays.

[Bonjoy]

 If only all re-bolting were so cheap. One bolt and two for the belay, bargain!

[Fiend]

Great stuff, but one quick question - will it have star ratings back??

(My purchasing of the guide depends on that answer being "Yes", BTW)

[Pantontino]

Of course, I think stars are essential in a definitive guide.

[Fiend]

Splendid! I presume the previous one was an aberration then.

Mark me down for a copy as soon as it's released. And the selected guide too.

And isn't there some big old sea-cliff up in the north of North Wales that needs a new guide??

[squeek]

There are quite few conventional clip ups, particularly in the harder grades, but typically a route will have one or two bolts with some sizeable run outs.

Ok, thanks for the info.  I've always wondered that as I've seen a few pictures of bolted N Wales slate routes and they always look very runout, but haven't seen many of fully bolted ones.  In fact the only one I've seen might be Steve MacLure on Dark Side (Half?) that was on the front of a US magazine.

[Andy F]

There are a few fully (and well) bolted slate routes like Manic Strain, Geordie Warcry (top route BTW), Bobby's Groove, The Weetabix Connection, The Untouchables and Klenian Envy but they are few and far between. Except Manic Strain and Klenian Envy which are quite close to each other, but not as close as Bobby's Groove and The Weetabix Connection...

[Houdini]

And Plenty bolts on Spong - True Grip - The Dark Destroyer - Dragonslayer - Conquistadors - Unpaid Bills - The Mu-Mu - Il Migliore Fabro - Chitra - Pas de Chevre - To Bolt or to Be - Menopausal Discharge - Heatseeker - The Porphyry Chair - The Wall Within - etc..

Kleinian Envy?  What's that?

[Andy F]

Klenian Envy aka Menopausal Discharge.

[Mick Ryan]

New Slate guide and re-equipping campaign

This has been briefly covered in a thread on UKC, but in case you didn't catch that:

Briefly Simon? Any more bullshit like that and I'll have to stop telling people that you are actually allright despite what you post.

NEWS: Good News from North Wales   Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com  1 of 28   1,911 views

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=201957

Sep 13: North Wales Slate re-equipping
by Chris Parkin

North Wales Slate
Good news from North Wales, Chris Parkin reports that work has begun on re-equipping Welsh slate. 12mm stainless bolts are being used to replace protection, belays and lower-offs. "A full compliment of dedicated equipment has been purchased using funds from the sale of the guidebook and includes a battery drill, petrol drill and all the tools to install new bolts and remove old ones. The equipment is stored at V12 Llanberis or Indi Climbing Wall on Angelesy.

The activities are been co-ordinated and supported by local climbers, retailers and climbing walls. Anyone keen to help out on this project should contact the lads at V12 Llanberis, John at Indi Climbing Wall or Chris Parkin.

In order to raise the profile of the work and raise funds the current remaining stock of the North Wales Slate climbing guides is being given away! Anyone giving £5 or more to the fund will be given a free copy of the current guidebook; A5, glossy colour pictures by Ray Wood, black and white photo topos and full text descriptions – destined to be a classic collectors publication!

To get your hands on a copy of the current free copy of the current guidebook call at one of the following North Wales locations: V12 Llanberis, Joe Browns Llanberis or Capel Curig, Beacon Climbing Centre or send a cheque donations to: NW Slate Llysfaen, Lon Brynteg, Llandegfan, Menai Bridge, LL59 5NU payable to N W Slate (add £1.50pp to your donation of £5 or more to be sent a free guidebook).

Please remember to include your full UK postal address including postcode to avoid delay. Your cheque will be returned if the supply of current guides runs out."

Just to add to all the excitement a new North Wales Slate guidebook is in preparation authored by Pete Robins and Mark Reeves and published by Ground Up.

[squeek]

Mick Ryan: As a side note, as most of UKC news articles are only a couple of short paragraphs long can you not put these paragraphs in the news posts on the forum instead of no details and a link to the news?

It's a little annoying to see:  "Mick Ryan - News:  Dave Graham eats three shredded wheat upside down" 

Click to get to the forum thread and see: 
"Dave Graham has eaten three shredded wheat upside down. Click UKC/news for details"

I've just clicked on one link to get the details why do I have to click on another?

[Mick Ryan]

Just go straight to the news page before you have your shredded wheat each morning.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

[Pantontino]

Mick, in case you didn't notice, the title of the thread is: "new North Wales Slate guide on its way".

This particular piece of news was covered 'briefly' on UKC - in fact, just one line at the end of the re-equipping press release that you recieved from Chris Parkin.

I added the re-equipping news item link partly because I thought it was important that people could easily find the clickable link to Mark Reeves' Safe Slate page: http://web.mac.com/mark.reeves/iWeb/Markreevesinstruction1/Safe%20Slate.html
You failed to put this important link in your news item (Mark subsequently added it to the thread).

And by the way, I stopped telling people you were alright a long time ago. There's only so many times you can stick up for someone before people stop believing you.

[Mick Ryan]

"New Slate guide and re-equipping campaign"

"This has been briefly covered in a thread on UKC"

My eyes decieve me. Mark's link. Didn't know a thing about it, now updated.

Mick

[Mick Ryan]

Also please note that there is now a live link to the Ground Up website on that news item.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

And also that many go direct to the news page and bypass the forums.

Please continue to spread my evil reputation

[squeek]

And also that many go direct to the news page and bypass the forums.

I wasn't saying don't post it on the news section, I was saying it's annoying to have a post in a forum about a bit of news with no details in it, of course you want it in the news section as well.  Anyway, this is dragging the thread off topic.

Good luck with the slate guide.

[Mick Ryan]

I wasn't saying don't post it on the news section, I was saying it's annoying to have a post in a forum about a bit of news with no details in it, of course you want it in the news section as well.  [/quote]

Dude,.......it's a freakin click away....what the fook

[Pantontino]

Check out the pic of new bolt-old bolt comparison taken in the quarries yesterday (The small bolt in the pic was sealed off with some resin, so was still in reasonable nick.):

http://www.groundupclimbing.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=179

I guess we've all taken whippers onto poxy little stubs like that - makes me shudder just thinking about it.

[Bonjoy]

 That's the same as the things I took out of Long Tor. Well dodgy, but to be fair the sheath bit which that screws into is a bit more substantial.

[Will Hunt]

Tried slate once. Didnt like it all that much. Reccomended routes <VS ?

[Andy F]

Slate routes below VS  . Try finding a female virgin in a brothel, you'll have more luck...

[Houdini]

VS & Slate:  Anathema.

By-the-by, rest assured, this will be the best slate guide ever as it will be written and organised by people who give much more than a shit, and have extremely high personal and professional standards.  It will blow the previous efforts out of the water.

[Will Hunt]

Lets say VS on slate then. I have led VS on slate and am sure I can lead harder I just havent tried in a long time. Would have put a less than or equal too symbol if comp had one.